Intermittent loss of power

[czakky]

This started this summer.

I'll turn the key to start and sometimes the fuel pump won't prime. Try again and she'll go. Sometimes the main headlight beam won't come on until she's running but the smaller "park" light or whatever is on.

Going down the road every once in a while it'll act like its out of fuel. I assume the pump lost power. I'll also lose the function of the tach and main headlight. Dash is still lit and she does come back to life before I'm even able to come to a stop.

 

I've got all good (GEI?) relays that I've tried swapping a few times. I had a spare kickstand switch and I put that on. Checked wiring to the ecu including the ground.

 

Any ideas? The only other thing to do is clean up the ignition switch, which I did about a year ago.

 

Thanks for any help!

[JBBenson]

Sounds lies either a weak battery or a bad ground somewhere, or dirty switchgear.

 

Electrical problems are uniquely maddening.

[docc]

Dirty/ faulty Run Switch? (open/clean and inspect the wiring)

 

Bad Relay #1 or #2? (I wouldn't use Chinese relays (BTJM), and be sure the connections in the bases are good)

 

Bypassing/ jumping Relay 3 will also bypass the Sidestand Switch and its wiring. If that proves a solution, carefully inspect the wiring from the sidestand switch to the run switch.

[czakky]

@JB- Pretty sure my battery is good, about a year and a half old. Good point though. I will keep cleaning ground points too. Thanks

 

@Docc- Forgot about the kill switch, I'll give that a look see. I've got all GEI relays (pyro dans) is there a better type out there that you use?

I did replace the side stand switch a couple days ago. Just because I had one lying around. I'll keep plugging away, thanks guys.

[fotoguzzi]

check bullet connectors along steering neck/frame, left side under tank.

[Scud]

I had some similar symptoms on an R1100RT - the problem turned out to be that a tiny spring went AWOL from the kill switch (probably broke and worked its way out).

 

Having just replaced a stator, I noticed how exposed the two yellow wires are to potential abrasion where they are zip-tied to the frame. The oil cooler and stainless lines are particular risks. I wonder if a small hole in the insulation of those wires could cause intermittent shorting out to ground and result in the symptoms you describe? I bring this up because I think you had the stator out within the last year.

[czakky]

@foto- wouldn't the bullet connectors only effect the start circuit though?

 

@Scud- You might be onto to something as I never did replace the loose-ish factory connection from the stator to reg.

 

A few things to look at, exactly why I ask you guys...

[docc]

These symptoms don't smack of the clutch switch. While they are common failure points,, and deserve attention, they will lock out the starter but not affect running once started or any of the various lights and tach.

 

Same with the two yellow wires and their marginal (bullet) connectors from the stator. They deserve attention, but won't play these symptoms.

 

 Really: Relay #2 (Headlight Relay) that gets its juice from Relay #1 (Starter Relay's "5th pin") and the current through the Sidestand Switch (but NOT the middle relay!)

 

I looked back at my "Flow Chart" (electrickery fer dummies) and can't see how the Run Switch or Sidestand Switch could affect the headlamp or tach. This is Fuse4/ Ignition Switch, Fuse5/ Relay1>Relay2:

 

 

With the headlamp affected, and the tach, it just stinks of relay 1-2 trouble. Personally, I wouldn't trust anything but high quality OMRON.

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND

[docc]

'lec-trickery fer dummies (like me):

[czakky]

Ok, Omron over GEI? Can I ask why?

 

Guess I always thought I had the best relays and never gave it much thought.

[docc]

Ok, Omron over GEI? Can I ask why?

 

Guess I always thought I had the best relays and never gave it much thought.

Good question! 

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=133211

[footgoose]

 

Ok, Omron over GEI? Can I ask why?

 

Guess I always thought I had the best relays and never gave it much thought.

Good question! 

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=133211

 

 

 

Okay, I'm convinced....where's a good place to get 'em?

[Kiwi_Roy]

It's nothing more than a dirty ignition switch or perhaps wire broken off it. The small lamp goes because it's on a different contact of the switch.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

[Scud]

Okay, I'm convinced....where's a good place to get 'em?

 

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND

 

 

 

 

FWIW - I've seen a few threads with electrical problems that were cured by installing new Omron relays. Very affordable from DigiKey and it's just nice to know that you're starting with all fresh relays.

[czakky]

Ok, kill switch cleaned. No change. Relay bases cleaned and lubed. Nothing. Cleaned ignition switch and she hasn't acted up... yet.

Couldn't help but notice the contacts on the ignition switch were looking pretty well receded into the base. Can't imagine they are getting worn but who knows... Either way solder joints look good and the contacts really didn't appear to be dirty but I suppose it wouldn't take much.

Good read on the relay comparo Docc. I think I had read that before but must've got the relays switched around... I will probably end up ordering a set of Omrons just for piece of mind. Sheesh these bikes are picky about relays. My old 71 super beetle still has all original relays working just fine (made in Deutschland though).