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Posted

I thought you could pull the starter apart by removing the two nuts on the very back of the can, then slide the can off?

Posted

I'll try it again. I can get it open that way but I didn't see a way to pull everything out from that end.

Posted

ok so how do you pull the rest of it out?

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Posted

Just a digression & comment;

 

Recently took my Griso in to a dealer to deal with a 'top end tappet' noise. Two weeks went by. At that point they had identified it was a 'top end tappet' noise, but were waiting on the Guzzi rep to tell them what to do. Sad exasperated emoji here.

 

Back to the Scura: a bunch of enthusiasts posting questions & photos. Getting answers. Putting up details of how someone else fixed that problem.

 

This is a Great forum !

  • Like 4
Posted

Since acquiring my 71' Yamaha R5 I've been posting on the " 2 Stroke World" forum. Although very informative and active, no way is it as good as this forum.

  • Like 2
Posted

So the magnets look good.  

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Posted

Lots of gunk in there....is it worth opening it up further or just get a new starter?  

 

What are your thoughts on this Mitsubishi starter that is being touted as more reliable and more easy to repair if something goes wrong?    Is it even an option for the V11?  Scroll to bottom of the link below.  

 

 

http://www.motoelekt.com/starter.htm

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Posted

They're saying the NipponDenso draws 80 amps, and the BMW Bosch 120 amps? I don't recall our Valeo drawing anything like that, even at inrush?

 

BTW, Is that tarmac and gravel packed around your starter shaft?

 

Seems that could make for some excessive *friction*/ draw . . .

Posted

Will clean it up and see if that makes a difference.

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Posted

I put one of these after numerous problems with the stock Valeo. It's been trouble free for years.

 

What are your thoughts on this Mitsubishi starter that is being touted as more reliable and more easy to repair if something goes wrong?    Is it even an option for the V11?  Scroll to bottom of the link below.  

 

 

http://www.motoelekt.com/starter.htm

  • Like 1
Posted

Mitsubishi certainly have a good reputation.

 

But your starter looks ok from what I can see

Refresh that grease in the planetary gearbox then put it back together

Test it out with 12 Volts. If you don't have a vice just put it on the floor and put your foot on itclip the negative jumper cable to the flange then touch the positive to the short jumper between solenoid and motor. That's applying Voltage directly across the motor.

If that works next clip the positive lead to the solenoid where the Guzzi battery normally connects. With a short length of wire jumper between the solenoid trigger terminal and Positive.

Posted

PROBLEM SOLVED.      

 

So I am still working on cleaning the old starter but thanks to Scud for sending me his spare starters.  Replacing the starter has solved the problem.  Started up beautifully today and sounded like a very solid confident startup after sitting for several months of downtime.  Thanks for all the great advice.  This forum is priceless....great minds and great people!  I've learned more about my bike from this one post than any other source in years.  

  • Like 2
  • 8 months later...
Posted

Having a no start issue.  Relay under seat clicks just fine.  Only end up with about 4.5V on the spade lug for the starter solenoid.

 

My bike is a 2002 Scura.  I have wiring diagrams for 1999 V11 and for 2004 V11, pulled from the usual web places.

 

So, can someone confirm if -

 

The 2002 wiring is like the 2004 diagram and the starter solenoid current comes from the key switch (likely my problem).

 

OR the 2002 is like the 1999 diagram with starter relay pin 30 up to the fuse then straight to the battery.

 

TIA !

 

BTW, if the 2002 is like the 2004, should I change it to be like the 1999 ?

 

 

Posted

Perform the "Livin' Easy Test" on Relay #1:  http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216435

 

Livin' Easy?   Later harness (like 2004) with current stressing the Ignition Switch.

 

Ain't Livin' Easy?  Early harness (like 1999) stressing Relay #1.  Use The High Current relays referenced in the linked thread.

 

Let us know! 

 

{edit: Kiwi_Roy just posted a way to differentiate the early and late harnesses by seeing if #30 to the Start Relay (#1) stays hot with the key off:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20254&p=230555]

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