V11 Shift improvement

[footgoose]

Do you have the new selector spring and extended shift lever for reassembly? Don't button her up without the new spring.

[BillyB]

Someone has been in here before and already extended the bracket on the shifter for the linkage, but it looks a little shoddy and if there's an extended bracket I could buy to replace this one I'd gladly do that. Also I can't tell from all the posts where the current best place is to buy a spring. A lot of the info in various threads in here is great, but it's old and has been replaced with new springs/sources and the sheer amount of posts on this topic is pretty overwhelming for a newb to V11s. Could someone point me to the best source for whatever spring you all feel is the best available?

I'll check the frame plate for marks to be sure the shifter isn't getting hung up. It never felt like that was the issue.

Thanks all.

[docc]

18 minutes ago, BillyB said:

Someone has been in here before and already extended the bracket on the shifter for the linkage, but it looks a little shoddy and if there's an extended bracket I could buy to replace this one I'd gladly do that. Also I can't tell from all the posts where the current best place is to buy a spring. A lot of the info in various threads in here is great, but it's old and has been replaced with new springs/sources and the sheer amount of posts on this topic is pretty overwhelming for a newb to V11s. Could someone point me to the best source for whatever spring you all feel is the best available?

I'll check the frame plate for marks to be sure the shifter isn't getting hung up. It never felt like that was the issue.

Thanks all.

@Scud has the Chuck-engineered SuperSpring.

@Chuck has done a couple runs of the LuckyPhil Shift Extender, but those are currently NLA, if I recall correctly . . .

[BillyB]

OK thanks docc, I PM'd @Scud  and @Chuck asking about the spring/extender.

Any other feedback on Redline Light vs. Superlight? Thanks guys

[footgoose]

If someone's been in there you might have the latest-best spring already. You can tell by the number of coil loops. The original has one coil, the new one has two. I can't help with viscosity. I used redline heavy last time and will replace it with light next change, unless someone talks me into superlight

[BillyB]

I haven't taken the 'gears' off yet but it looks like there's only 1 coil in this pic I took? Also I'm curious if its supposed to look like the selector arm is riding right against the gear on the right side. The alignment to the gear on the left looks good though.

[footgoose]

yes that is the old spring it looks like. I don't think there is a worry regards how close the selector arm is to the gear. Check for abrasions when you disassemble. I recall mine had some scratches. Before disassembly take a few minutes to 'cycle' it through to spot anything odd. Also a good time to locate the indentation on the inside of one of the gears where the neutral switch plunger fits in. You'll want to put it in neutral when the plate goes back on.

[docc]

Worth getting that pawl arm on the bench for a straighten and polish as Lucky Phil details on Post#1.

I don't think you can go wrong with any of those RedLine ShockProof products. Personally, I've always uesd the blue Lightweight in my gearbox, now also in my reardrive (having stopped using the red Heavy altogether).

[BillyB]

Doesn't the pawl arm look like its riding where it should be, at least on the left side gear? Its in the middle (not rubbing anything high or low) which is what I thought is the goal? 

Also looking at the way it works I'm not sure what the polishing of the arm accomplishes?

[docc]

7 hours ago, BillyB said:

Doesn't the pawl arm look like its riding where it should be, at least on the left side gear? Its in the middle (not rubbing anything high or low) which is what I thought is the goal? 

Also looking at the way it works I'm not sure what the polishing of the arm accomplishes?

In your image, it appears to me that the assembly is simply resting on the shifter shaft that goes through the plate seal on the right of your image pressing that side of the pawl mechanism inward. Otherwise, the pawl arm could be bowed that much (bent) from its stamping.

The pawl arm pulls and pushes pins on the upper cam wheel (on the left in your image) to change gears. That surface can be quite scored from tooling marks and benefit from a good polishing. Also, they tend to be warped from stamping and benefit from straightening (flattening).

[BillyB]

OK I spent some more time with it last night and see what you're talking about - I thought the original post was suggesting polishing the wide flat sides of the pawl arm (which ideally don't ride against anything, hence my "Why do this?" question) but now I realize the filing/polishing is meant for the narrow surface on/around the 'hooks' that mate with the pins in the upper wheel and the intent is for it to slip over those pins easily. I filed and polished that surface. The pawl arm is pretty straight and I don't want to risk making it worse so I'll pay attention to where its riding on reassembly and bend/straighten accordingly if needed.

I also noticed the roller wheel that rides in the detents on the upper gear wasn't riding anywhere near the middle of the detents so I bent that and its now riding like it should.

Chuck replied and said there's no more LuckyPhil shift extenders available. Still haven't heard from Scud on the spring, hopefully he has one as this is ready to go back together once my lightweight Redline gear oil shows up and I want to see if its fixed!

I checked and didn't see any evidence of the shift pedal/linkage hanging up on the frame plate or anywhere else so that wasn't causing my problems.

Hopefully my last question - setting the clearance for the return limit eccentric adjuster - there's raised areas on the pawl arm that face that pin (red arrows in pic pointing at them). Am I setting the clearance between these areas and the pin at .030", or is that the measurement from the flat part of the pawl arm (between the arrows) and the pin?

As always, thanks for the help!

[Lucky Phil]

3 hours ago, ronkom said:

Help needed! I have my tranny cover off & am trying to follow the suggestions in Lucky Phil's how-to posting.  Bike is an '03 Sport naked. It has the later transmission cover (w/the eccentric bolt, but not the "banana support link" The shafts are long enough & have an extra set grooves for snap rings to hold the support link, but there isn't one. 

Question: from page 4 of the how-to "Set up the eccentric w/about 0.030" clearance to the shift arm at its closest point in the travel" The eccentric is mentioned twice more in the post but w/out an explicit instruction exactly where to measure the 0.030"

Thanks,

Ronkom    

You operate the shift mechanism and find the point in the travel where the edge of the pawl arm is closest to the eccentric pin and set the clearance at that point. I can't remember the precise point on the arm but the object is to limit the movement of the arm during the shift operation in case it tries to disengage. The range of adjustment to get the required clearance is not achievable over the full length of the arm from memory so adjust at the point where the arm comes closest to the pin. It's been a few years since I did this so I'm not precisely sure which point of the arm it is. You dont want it adjusted so there's no clearance at any point in the travel. I "think" it was on the raised lug.

Scudds roller bearing detent is also worth doing I think while you're in there although I haven't done it personally.   

Ciao

[Chuck]

Ron.. I must have had that preselector apart and back together 100 times when I was developing the unbreakable pawl spring.

(I see Phil just posted)

*I don't remember* but if you run it through it's travel up and down shifting, it should be obvious I would think.

[BillyB]

OK understood - I'll just set the eccentric so it never gets closer than .030" from the shift arm at any point. I can't confirm right now because its still apart but I'm almost certain on mine the closest point will be that raised lug as Phil said (left arrow pointing to it on the pic above). I can't see how this wouldn't be the same point for all bikes - there's not _that_ much tolerance in these parts between bikes, even on a Guzzi

[ronkom]

Well DUH!!! The reason I haven't understood the whole eccentric pin adjustment is that my transmission doesn't have one!  The hole it is mounted in on the various exploded parts exploded views  is filled w/a brass plug on my transmission cover. In fact, the hole is threaded from the outside and the threads are only cut about 3/4 of the way through the cover. 

The bike is a Sport naked w/a maroon tank titled as a 2003. The naked model in maroon/metallic charcoal is pictured in Guzzi 2003 literature, but in the parts books the naked is only listed as an 01-02.  The vin is ZGUKRAKR73M15043 the motor # is KR017166 (KR0 or KRO??) Can anyone translate those numbers to when it was built? 

Question: I am the 3rd owner of this bike (as far as I know). I know the last owner was into the tranny to change out broken spring(s). Is it supposed to have an eccentric bolt? Could it have been removed for some reason? 

ronkom 

PS have pictures as jpegs, don't know how to "insert from URL"