2002 Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans Revival

[Chuck]

You could wait for (ahem) 6 months or so with the tank empty for it to return to normal size.   I'm thinking orthodontia will be the solution.

[Cyborg]

Further to leaving the tank empty.... if I understand the expanding tank thing correctly, it's not the ethanol, but the water attracted by the ethanol that causes the problem. There were some car door latches here in monsoon country that swelled up and wouldn't work. By the time they were inspected by the tech fellows at head office, they had returned to their normal state and functioned fine. Drove them nuts for a while. Up here, Shell premium doesn't have any ethanol, so that is what I am going to use whenever possible. My recently acquired tank is swollen (assuming the PO used something with alcohol) , and it comes in contact with the fork tubes. This winter I am going to drain the tank and stuff a bag of desiccant inside it. I bought a sack of reusable desiccant for the air dryer, so have some to spare.

 

I'm a bit of a non social hermit and generally only associate (very infrequently) with other hermits, so gathering that many people together at one time to reinstall a tank could be problematic.

[Chuck]

Further to leaving the tank empty.... if I understand the expanding tank thing correctly, it's not the ethanol, but the water attracted by the ethanol that causes the problem. There were some car door latches here in monsoon country that swelled up and wouldn't work. By the time they were inspected by the tech fellows at head office, they had returned to their normal state and functioned fine. Drove them nuts for a while. Up here, Shell premium doesn't have any ethanol, so that is what I am going to use whenever possible. My recently acquired tank is swollen (assuming the PO used something with alcohol) , and it comes in contact with the fork tubes. This winter I am going to drain the tank and stuff a bag of desiccant inside it. I bought a sack of reusable desiccant for the air dryer, so have some to spare.

 

I'm a bit of a non social hermit and generally only associate (very infrequently) with other hermits, so gathering that many people together at one time to reinstall a tank could be problematic.

Ok, if you don't want to go to orthodontia, or many people pushing..   I lined Rosie's tank with Caswell's epoxy tank liner. That's worked fine so far.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=62087.0;wap2

[docc]

The first time encountered this "elongated tank" phenomenon was the night before a Big Ride when I exercised the heady wisdom of removing my tank to service the air and fuel filters. Everyone afflicted with *heady wiz-dumb* does this sort of thing . . .

 

I managed to grasp the Tekno pannier racks and shove the tank forward with my boot and, somehow, get it back on.

 

The ratchet strap method is probably more sound if you can strike the right angle to compress the tank forward without the strap slipping . . .

[Cyborg]

 

Further to leaving the tank empty.... if I understand the expanding tank thing correctly, it's not the ethanol, but the water attracted by the ethanol that causes the problem. There were some car door latches here in monsoon country that swelled up and wouldn't work. By the time they were inspected by the tech fellows at head office, they had returned to their normal state and functioned fine. Drove them nuts for a while. Up here, Shell premium doesn't have any ethanol, so that is what I am going to use whenever possible. My recently acquired tank is swollen (assuming the PO used something with alcohol) , and it comes in contact with the fork tubes. This winter I am going to drain the tank and stuff a bag of desiccant inside it. I bought a sack of reusable desiccant for the air dryer, so have some to spare.

I'm a bit of a non social hermit and generally only associate (very infrequently) with other hermits, so gathering that many people together at one time to reinstall a tank could be problematic.

 

Ok, if you don't want to go to orthodontia, or many people pushing..   I lined Rosie's tank with Caswell's epoxy tank liner. That's worked fine so far.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=62087.0;wap2

Thanks, and I may get to that point, although I've never been a fan of tank lining. I don't have any first hand experience to justify the lack of enthusiasm. Just wonder about cleaning, etching, slippery expanding plastic and probably a few other things. West System G-flex is something I might try. Although they don't recommend it for fuel tanks ( and neither do I) they didn't say don't use it, so I'm sure it would be fine, it's just that they haven't done any testing and don't want to assume any liability. I've used it in other applications (like fixing leaks in Hypalon tubes on a RIB), but would have to test it first with gas and alcohol. Great stuff and probably good for cracked side panels etc.

 

I stand to be corrected on this, but I believe there was a class action against Ducati over expanding tanks (I think Ducati's situation was worse with tanks slipping off front mounts), but it was tossed because it wasn't deemed a safety issue. It certainly could be considered a safety issue with MG. With all those old farts pushing on that tank, someone's scrotum could fill with intestines!

[docc]

Hey! I resemble that remark!

[Chuck]

 

 

Further to leaving the tank empty.... if I understand the expanding tank thing correctly, it's not the ethanol, but the water attracted by the ethanol that causes the problem. There were some car door latches here in monsoon country that swelled up and wouldn't work. By the time they were inspected by the tech fellows at head office, they had returned to their normal state and functioned fine. Drove them nuts for a while. Up here, Shell premium doesn't have any ethanol, so that is what I am going to use whenever possible. My recently acquired tank is swollen (assuming the PO used something with alcohol) , and it comes in contact with the fork tubes. This winter I am going to drain the tank and stuff a bag of desiccant inside it. I bought a sack of reusable desiccant for the air dryer, so have some to spare.

I'm a bit of a non social hermit and generally only associate (very infrequently) with other hermits, so gathering that many people together at one time to reinstall a tank could be problematic.

Ok, if you don't want to go to orthodontia, or many people pushing..   I lined Rosie's tank with Caswell's epoxy tank liner. That's worked fine so far.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=62087.0;wap2

Thanks, and I may get to that point, although I've never been a fan of tank lining. I don't have any first hand experience to justify the lack of enthusiasm. Just wonder about cleaning, etching, slippery expanding plastic and probably a few other things. West System G-flex is something I might try. Although they don't recommend it for fuel tanks ( and neither do I) they didn't say don't use it, so I'm sure it would be fine, it's just that they haven't done any testing and don't want to assume any liability. I've used it in other applications (like fixing leaks in Hypalon tubes on a RIB), but would have to test it first with gas and alcohol. Great stuff and probably good for cracked side panels etc.

 

I stand to be corrected on this, but I believe there was a class action against Ducati over expanding tanks (I think Ducati's situation was worse with tanks slipping off front mounts), but it was tossed because it wasn't deemed a safety issue. It certainly could be considered a safety issue with MG. With all those old farts pushing on that tank, someone's scrotum could fill with intestines!

 

Trust me on this. Caswells is the shitz for plastic tanks. As far as I know, it's the only thing that works.   I *do* have experience with other methods, btw..

[Cdogger]

Hey guys! She runs! I was able to get the fuel tank on with the ratchet straps. That solution works very well.

The no start issue was a few things (sticky starter solenoid, hardened electrical grease in the ignition switch, too much resistance in the starter circuit). I will post some diagrams of the changes I made (credit to Kiwi_Roy).

I had to get a new fuel pump too because I snapped the little plastic nozzle off the plastic side by cranking down on the hose clamp.

I will probably make a more detailed post on how to free up a stuck fuel pump.

Now it's just a few little things and some cosmetics to finish. Does anyone know where I can get some touch up paint?

[Cdogger]

I have to flush the clutch and brake fluids and put new stuff in. I have never done this before. Do I need a vacuum pump or anything?

[Chuck]

 

 

ratchet straps

See, orthodontia works. 

 

 

 Do I need a vacuum pump or anything? 

I've never tried them, but many swear by speed bleeders. I've used a vacuum pump, but prefer to use a big syringe and push fluid toward the reservoir. Air bubbles get pushed in front of the fluid. 

[Scud]

Speed bleeders are nice, but you can bleed fluid with just a clear hose and a wrench. Just apply pressure, loosen the fitting to expel some fluid, tighten, repeat till fresh fluid starts coming out (be sure to keep refilling the fluid reservoir so your don't suck air into the lines). Front brakes are easiest. Rear brake is best if you take off the caliper and have the bleeder pointing up while you do it. Clutch slave cylinder is hard to reach - but it can be done. There's probably a youtube video.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I do it as per Scud, you shouldn't need any special tools as long as you don't allow any air into the system.

A 10 mm ring spanner slipped over bleeder, stays there for the duration.

Length of clear plastic hose from bleeder into a bottle

1/ apply brake,

2/ open bleeder, - lets the pedal go down or lever go to bars

3/ close bleeder without releasing the brake.

4/ release brake, - sucks in a fresh charge of fluid

back to step 1

 

It's important to get the sequence right or you might suck air into the slave cylinder

Be very careful not to splash fluid onto the paintwork, it's the best paint remover.

If you take the rear caliper off jamb something in between the pads so they can't close on you.

[footgoose]

I bought a vacuum pump for my BMW's as recommended. After about 15 min I disconnected it and threw it away. Do as Scud and Roy have said. I would add that I first use a big syringe and suck out my old fluid from the reservoir, and wipe it out with clean cloth and q-tips. Then top up with new. This will save pushing the old fluid thru everything. Just be aware not to let air in the system.

 

My father in law used to swear by the gravity method with his cars. I've never tried it.

[docc]

My father in law used to swear by the gravity method with his cars. I've never tried it.

It may be no coincidence, but my father-in-law used to swear, too . . . 

 

That said, no one swears like *dangerous* . . . he has taken it to an art form.

[Scud]

 

My father in law used to swear by the gravity method with his cars. I've never tried it.

It may be no coincidence, but my father-in-law used to swear, too . . . 

 

That said, no one swears like *dangerous* . . . he has taken it to an art form.

 

 

Ha - I was thinking of Dangerous today. I greased the bloody farking uni joints on my driveshaft. It was easy, cuz the driveshaft was on the bench. Now it's ready for when it's time to reassemble (except one should not lube the middle fitting until it's on the bike and the bike is supporting it's own weight.)

 

So carry on... bleed the hydraulic fluids, then move on to the three (find 'em all) grease fittings on the driveshaft.

 

Two are easy to find, then there's that bloody farking front one:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18602