2002 Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans Revival

[docc]

Ignition Switch is the one with the key, Run Switch is by the right "grip" above the starter button.

 

You must pull in the clutch while starting.

 

What do you hear?

[Cdogger]

So how I'm trying to start it is I turn the key to the right, flip the run switch on and pull the clutch and press the starter switch. I hear a couple clicks when I flip the run switch and then when I press the starter it sounds like a starter motor. I ran into a new problem now. I tried to start it and it didn't work so I tried again and the starter motor didn't make any noise and all the lights dimmed on the bike until I let go of the starter switch. I pulled the starter switch apart to see what was going on and it seemed fine so I put it back together and now neither the run switch or the starter switch do anything.   

[Cdogger]

Also the neutral light stopped working right after the starter motor stopped.

[docc]

Sounds like a dead battery (maybe combined with several dirty/corroded connections). Do you have a "good" digital voltmeter?

[Cdogger]

Sounds like a dead battery (maybe combined with several dirty/corroded connections). Do you have a "good" digital vol

The battery is a new gel battery and it is fully charged. I do have a good multimeter.

[docc]

What's the battery voltage, key on?

 

Does the headlight come on with the key?

 

What's the voltage after the lights are on two on three minutes?

[Cdogger]

What's the battery voltage, key on?

 

Does the headlight come on with the key?

 

What's the voltage after the lights are on two on three minutes?

I will check tomorrow. The mosquitoes are out now. the headlight comes on with the key.

[Kiwi_Roy]

If is not the battery it must be a bad connection, always smear a little Vaseline on the battery terminals, make sure the main ground is securely fastened to the gearbox.

Scrape the battery terminals with a sharp knife to remove the Lead Oxide before applying vasaline

 

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

[Cdogger]

Hey Kiwi. Do you think the starter motor is ok? I'd hate to have to replace that. I also wonder if the ECU is fried. I accidentally touched my hex key between the battery positive and the ecu's shell. It was grounded so I hope it's ok.

[Chuck]

   *I don't know* but I've always taken pains to not do something like that. 

[Cdogger]

Here's an update. I found out why it wasn't starting. *cough* I forgot to plug in the TPS and MAF *cough*   . I checked the cylinders to see if they are getting fuel and they are. The run/ starter switch still isn't working and neither is the neutral light on the dash. I'm really not sure what could be going on. I doubt it was the battery because its only 2 weeks old. I think I will get this running really quick. I just have to fix those 2 things.

[Kiwi_Roy]

No I suspect the ECU is fine, the ground is just a shield but just follow the small black wire off the ECU case into the loom, it only goes a short way to the battery. This is the reason BTW we say to disconnect the battery negative first and re-connect it last, that way it's impossible to short out the battery, once the negative wire is off you can do whatever you like to positive.

 

 

If you don't grease the battery terminals lead Oxide Forms on them, this is an insulator which will eventually creep in and even disconnect the terminals from the lugs even when the bolts are tight, scraping the terminals and smearing with a little Vaseline coats the metal prevents the Oxygen getting at the Lead., You may have noticed when you touch your meter leads on the posts it doesn't make contact until you jab the points thru the Lead Oxide layer. I find most guys are skeptical about this, I cut my teeth on large traction batteries.

 

I doubt there is anything wrong with your starter, connect your meter on the large terminal where the main lead attaches to the solenoid and chassis, I think you will see it take a dive when you press start.

 

Seems like you are getting close to Lift Off then

 

I just missed your latest post,

Every time you turn the key On (or cycle the Run/Stop switch) you must hear the pump cycle for a couple of seconds. If you don't it's not ready to run or the battery is ass backwards

Make sure the electric petcock is plugged in, you can tell by measuring with fuse 8 out, it should measure about 20 Ohms to chassis on the load side of the fuse holder. The pump can sometimes suck thru a closed petcock but you will hear it protest the first time you turn the key on you can hear the system charging up with fuel.

 

May I suggest starting it outside for the first few times, have the garden hose handy.

[Cdogger]

No I suspect the ECU is fine, the ground is just a shield but just follow the small black wire off the ECU case into the loom, it only goes a short way to the battery. This is the reason BTW we say to disconnect the battery negative first and re-connect it last, that way it's impossible to short out the battery, once the negative wire is off you can do whatever you like to positive.

 

 

If you don't grease the battery terminals lead Oxide Forms on them, this is an insulator which will eventually creep in and even disconnect the terminals from the lugs even when the bolts are tight, scraping the terminals and smearing with a little Vaseline coats the metal prevents the Oxygen getting at the Lead., You may have noticed when you touch your meter leads on the posts it doesn't make contact until you jab the points thru the Lead Oxide layer. I find most guys are skeptical about this, I cut my teeth on large traction batteries.

 

I doubt there is anything wrong with your starter, connect your meter on the large terminal where the main lead attaches to the solenoid and chassis, I think you will see it take a dive when you press start.

 

Seems like you are getting close to Lift Off then

 

I just missed your latest post,

Every time you turn the key On (or cycle the Run/Stop switch) you must hear the pump cycle for a couple of seconds. If you don't it's not ready to run or the battery is ass backwards

Make sure the electric petcock is plugged in, you can tell by measuring with fuse 8 out, it should measure about 20 Ohms to chassis on the load side of the fuse holder. The pump can sometimes suck thru a closed petcock but you will hear it protest the first time you turn the key on you can hear the system charging up with fuel.

 

May I suggest starting it outside for the first few times, have the garden hose handy.

I do not hear the pump run. I will check and make sure its plugged in correctly. My bike doesn't have an electric petcock. Also the starter switch and run switch does nothing now. I was hearing it before but it does nothing now.

[czakky]

Check your relays/fuses and see what kind of voltage you across the terminals of your battery.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Make sure you have the battery in the right way around, if it's in backwards the ECU won't let it the live wire is positive in relation to the chassis.

 

Check for Voltage across the coil sockets for relay 4 and from either socket to chassis,     85 |  |  | 86

 

I think I sent you the sketch for checking all the switches from under the seat. I will fire it off again.

 

The Neutral Light, Oil Pressure Light, Low Fuel Light and the tach are all fed from the headlight circuit, is your headlight On?

I sometimes unplug the headlight relay while I'm working on the bike but be aware the charging won't work, better to unplug the 4 way connector under the headlight bucket to save power.