Spark Plug Ritual

[footgoose]

Sometimes I wonder how I got to the point I am now, of doing things the way I do them. Doing plug replacement today, I wondered out of nowhere,(too much coffee) am I doing this the best way?

 

Removal is always the same. Feel for any hang ups on the way out, noting that they were indeed, seated. Inspect for damage and proper coloration.

 

Gauge the new ones. I use a flat gauge as opposed to wire, and it only has .027" and .028" for choices. Our spec is .7mm which lands somewhere between them. I have always gone with 'err on the large size.' I go with 28

 

I hit them on something till they are very tight on the gauge, then use it to bend it till it just slips in and out, but snug.

 

I dab just a bit of silver anti seize on the threads and replace. I think I have a good sense of "torque" without using a torque wrench (they scare me with plugs) and go slightly past the 'crush' of the washer.

 

I use the recommended NGK BPR6ES and get them at the auto parts store.

 

Anything I can learn after all these years?

[gstallons]

If you are really serious , get a spark plug gapping tool from SnapOn or the likes. They look like pliers and will properly gap and square up the center and ground electrodes. Just don't squeeze too hard or you will push the center electrode down into the porcelain.

[Lucky Phil]

Sometimes I wonder how I got to the point I am now, of doing things the way I do them. Doing plug replacement today, I wondered out of nowhere,(too much coffee) am I doing this the best way?

 

Removal is always the same. Feel for any hang ups on the way out, noting that they were indeed, seated. Inspect for damage and proper coloration.

 

Gauge the new ones. I use a flat gauge as opposed to wire, and it only has .027" and .028" for choices. Our spec is .7mm which lands somewhere between them. I have always gone with 'err on the large size.' I go with 28

 

I hit them on something till they are very tight on the gauge, then use it to bend it till it just slips in and out, but snug.

 

I dab just a bit of silver anti seize on the threads and replace. I think I have a good sense of "torque" without using a torque wrench (they scare me with plugs) and go slightly past the 'crush' of the washer.

 

I use the recommended NGK BPR6ES and get them at the auto parts store.

 

Anything I can learn after all these years?

You sure are making a career out of a plug change:) One point, if you read the NGK literature you will find that the plugs come with anti seize plating and they recommend NOT using anti seize grease.

 

Ciao

[footgoose]

Ha! See, I learned two new things already! thanks

[docc]

I used to put copper antiseize on my plugs until Andy York straightened me out on that.

 

As L'Phil says, no paste required.

 

I knew an Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic (airplane mechanic) that required me to torque my plugs for the correct heat transfer. How critical on an air cooled road bike? Well, I haven't done it that way in a long time . . .

[Lucky Phil]

I used to put copper antiseize on my plugs until Andy York straightened me out on that.

 

As L'Phil says, no paste required.

 

I knew an Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic (airplane mechanic) that required me to torque my plugs for the correct heat transfer. How critical on an air cooled road bike? Well, I haven't done it that way in a long time . . .

I'm an A and P mechanic but after 45 years of replacing plugs I have the feel for it

Torquing isn't a bad thing though if you don't do a lot of it, but unless you're in the habit of leaving plugs loose it wont make any difference to heat transfer. And if you do leave them loose then you're biggest worry will be ruined threads in the plug holes.

 

Ciao