docc Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 As Harry Nillson said "Now lemme get this straight.." Never have heard of that. "You put the lime in the coconut . . ." 2
Chuck Posted August 9, 2016 Author Posted August 9, 2016 "You put the lime in the coconut . . ." Couldn't stand it. My cub didn't come in to work today, so I'm going to have a look at the pre selector even though the shop is full of airplane and parts for a steel mill. It's only supposed to be 91F today.
Chuck Posted August 9, 2016 Author Posted August 9, 2016 Who ee, it's hot out in the hanger today. It was the centering spring. 1-003 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr With one leg broken it won't shift up. If I held the gizmo (technical term) on center, it would shift normally. 1-005 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr $9.88. Cheap. 2
docc Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 Might as well work the LuckyPhil magic on it while it's on the bench!
Chuck Posted August 9, 2016 Author Posted August 9, 2016 The bike has 32K miles. Should I put a new pawl spring in it while it's apart, or go with what's been working?
docc Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 I would put on a fresh one and check the pawl arm size for coil binding, but I'm no expert beyond having replaced a broken one once. I think LuckyPhil is our current world expert on the shift mechanism of the V11 series . . .
Kiwi_Roy Posted August 10, 2016 Posted August 10, 2016 Hang the broken spring on your keychain, "proof of rite of passage"Of course if you were younger in your ear or through your nose.Sorry, I have a weird sense of humour
Lucky Phil Posted August 10, 2016 Posted August 10, 2016 The bike has 32K miles. Should I put a new pawl spring in it while it's apart, or go with what's been working? Yes Chuck, replace both springs. The detent arm spring doesn't usually give much trouble but while you're in there and ordering stuff. Glad it was something so simple. You have the earlier shift plate assy so check the dia of the boss on the shift pawl arm and compare to the ID of the pawl spring and make sure there wont be any binding. I suspect it would have broken by now if its the too big 16mm dia boss, so it should be fine. Ciao PS make sure you get the centering/return spring installed the right way up Chuck, if you dont one of the arms rubs on that crescent shaped land just behind the stop pin in the photo.
Chuck Posted August 10, 2016 Author Posted August 10, 2016 The bike has 32K miles. Should I put a new pawl spring in it while it's apart, or go with what's been working? Yes Chuck, replace both springs. The detent arm spring doesn't usually give much trouble but while you're in there and ordering stuff. Glad it was something so simple. You have the earlier shift plate assy so check the dia of the boss on the shift pawl arm and compare to the ID of the pawl spring and make sure there wont be any binding. I suspect it would have broken by now if its the too big 16mm dia boss, so it should be fine. Ciao PS make sure you get the centering/return spring installed the right way up Chuck, if you dont one of the arms rubs on that crescent shaped land just behind the stop pin in the photo. Thanks, Phil. I have a spare pawl spring in my tool kit, so I'll just install it and keep the other for a spare. Maybe I should paint it red?
passator cortese Posted August 10, 2016 Posted August 10, 2016 so... I won!!!! Glad for you it was something easy-to-fix!
Chuck Posted August 10, 2016 Author Posted August 10, 2016 so... I won!!!! Glad for you it was something easy-to-fix! Give that man a coconut.. 2
LowRyter Posted August 10, 2016 Posted August 10, 2016 You have to give it to Chuck. He "Jumped Into The Fire"
Lucky Phil Posted August 10, 2016 Posted August 10, 2016 The bike has 32K miles. Should I put a new pawl spring in it while it's apart, or go with what's been working? Yes Chuck, replace both springs. The detent arm spring doesn't usually give much trouble but while you're in there and ordering stuff. Glad it was something so simple. You have the earlier shift plate assy so check the dia of the boss on the shift pawl arm and compare to the ID of the pawl spring and make sure there wont be any binding. I suspect it would have broken by now if its the too big 16mm dia boss, so it should be fine. Ciao PS make sure you get the centering/return spring installed the right way up Chuck, if you dont one of the arms rubs on that crescent shaped land just behind the stop pin in the photo. Thanks, Phil. I have a spare pawl spring in my tool kit, so I'll just install it and keep the other for a spare. Maybe I should paint it red? A tasteful red Chuck Ciao
Chuck Posted August 11, 2016 Author Posted August 11, 2016 Sort of a x post from WG.. Lucky Phil is not the dumbest bear in the woods, so when he speaks, I listen. No matter that he doesn't care for my beautiful red gaiters on the Aero Lario.. I ground the pawl surfaces where they ride on the shift drum pins. 1-003 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr 1-007 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr 1-006 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr 1-004 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr ferinstance 1-005 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr I've learned a few things that might be useful here. I'll post them when I put it together.
Lucky Phil Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 Nice work Chuck. When you reassemble adjust on the bench the eccentric stop. You will probably find that the trans will under shift in one direction and over shift slightly in the other. Use your hand to keep some load on the selector gears to as you shift and you'll feel it. I adjusted the eccentric until It was a good as it could be and then added a spot of weld to the stop faces and dressed back until there was little or no over shift. I tiny bit of over shift wont hurt but if the adjuster is a long way off in one direction you will get a fair amount of over and under. You'll see it. I still think the stop lever return/centering spring could be a little stiffer and I was contemplating a 1mm wall thickness sleeve locktited over the stop pin to give it a bit more preload. Ciao
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