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Posted

 

As Harry Nillson said "Now lemme get  this straight.."

 Never have heard of that.

 

"You put the lime in the coconut . . ."

  • Like 2
Posted
"You put the lime in the coconut . . ."

 

:grin: Couldn't stand it. My cub didn't come in to work today, so I'm going to have a look at the pre selector even though the shop is full of airplane and parts for a steel mill. It's only supposed to be 91F today.  :rolleyes:

Posted

Might as well work the LuckyPhil magic on it while it's on the bench!

Posted

The bike has 32K miles. Should I put a new pawl spring in it while it's apart, or go with what's been working?

Posted

I would put on a fresh one and check the pawl arm size for coil binding, but I'm no expert beyond having replaced a broken one once.

 

I think :notworthy: LuckyPhil is our current world expert on the shift mechanism of the V11 series . . . :thumbsup:

Posted

Hang the broken spring on your keychain, "proof of rite of passage"
Of course if you were younger in your ear or through your nose.

Sorry, I have a weird sense of humour

Posted

The bike has 32K miles. Should I put a new pawl spring in it while it's apart, or go with what's been working?

Yes Chuck, replace both springs. The detent arm spring doesn't usually give much trouble but while you're in there and ordering stuff.

Glad it was something so simple. You have the earlier shift plate assy so check the dia of the boss on the shift pawl arm and compare to the ID of the pawl spring and make sure there wont be any binding.

I suspect it would have broken by now if its the too big 16mm dia boss, so it should be fine.

 

Ciao

 

PS make sure you get the centering/return spring installed the right way up Chuck, if you dont one of the arms rubs on that crescent shaped land just behind the stop pin in the photo.

Posted

 

The bike has 32K miles. Should I put a new pawl spring in it while it's apart, or go with what's been working?

Yes Chuck, replace both springs. The detent arm spring doesn't usually give much trouble but while you're in there and ordering stuff.

Glad it was something so simple. You have the earlier shift plate assy so check the dia of the boss on the shift pawl arm and compare to the ID of the pawl spring and make sure there wont be any binding.

I suspect it would have broken by now if its the too big 16mm dia boss, so it should be fine.

 

Ciao

 

PS make sure you get the centering/return spring installed the right way up Chuck, if you dont one of the arms rubs on that crescent shaped land just behind the stop pin in the photo.

 

Thanks, Phil. I have a spare pawl spring in my tool kit, so I'll just install it and keep the other for a spare. Maybe I should paint it red?  :whistle:

Posted

so... I won!!!!  :D

Glad for you it was something easy-to-fix!

Give that man a coconut..  :D

  • Like 2
Posted

 

 

The bike has 32K miles. Should I put a new pawl spring in it while it's apart, or go with what's been working?

Yes Chuck, replace both springs. The detent arm spring doesn't usually give much trouble but while you're in there and ordering stuff.

Glad it was something so simple. You have the earlier shift plate assy so check the dia of the boss on the shift pawl arm and compare to the ID of the pawl spring and make sure there wont be any binding.

I suspect it would have broken by now if its the too big 16mm dia boss, so it should be fine.

 

Ciao

 

PS make sure you get the centering/return spring installed the right way up Chuck, if you dont one of the arms rubs on that crescent shaped land just behind the stop pin in the photo.

 

Thanks, Phil. I have a spare pawl spring in my tool kit, so I'll just install it and keep the other for a spare. Maybe I should paint it red?  :whistle:

 

A tasteful red Chuck  :grin: 

Ciao

Posted

Sort of a x post from WG..

Lucky Phil is not the dumbest bear in the woods, so when he speaks, I listen. No matter that he doesn't care for my beautiful red gaiters on the Aero Lario..  :oldgit:

I ground the pawl surfaces where they ride on the shift drum pins.

28796208452_a58861b427_c.jpg1-003 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

28825792711_9388e272b8_c.jpg1-007 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

28283744824_2979f9858c_c.jpg1-006 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

28796205312_38514c8d5a_c.jpg1-004 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

ferinstance

28825797751_b11fe18245_c.jpg1-005 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

I've learned a few things that might be useful here. I'll post them when I put it together.

Posted

Nice work Chuck. When you reassemble adjust on the bench the eccentric stop. You will probably find that the trans will under shift in one direction and over shift slightly in the other. Use your hand to keep some load on the selector gears to as you shift and you'll feel it. I adjusted the eccentric until It was a good as it could be and then added a spot of weld to the stop faces and dressed back until there was little or no over shift. I tiny bit of over shift wont hurt but if the adjuster is a long way off in one direction you will get a fair amount of over and under. You'll see it. I still think the stop lever return/centering spring could be a little stiffer and I was contemplating a 1mm wall thickness sleeve locktited over the stop pin to give it a bit more preload.

 

Ciao

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