docc Posted August 14, 2016 Posted August 14, 2016 Time for Gearbox and Rear Drive/ Bevel Drive oil changes (over 12,000 miles/ 20.000 km) before the South'n Spine Raid. At the cusp of rolling over 100,000 miles, I've used many different gear oils in these two applications. I have always favored RedLine Shockproof Lightweight (blue) in the Gearbox, but admittedly have used "cocktails" before. I started out using the MG Final Drive oil that had the moly mixed in (apparently a Motul product?), but it became unavailable (seemingly), so I went to RedLine Shockproof Heavy. Through a series of changes, I feel certain I overfilled it and prompted seal leaks that plagued me for a long time. During that time, and since, Ive used a variety of lubricants in the Rear Drive including the addition of a moly additive. Now for The Blues . . . I have a shelf full of various, left-over, high quality gear oils (Agip, RedLine, Mobile1) and even a little moly additive (Kal-Gard) that I ponder making "cocktails" (combinations of remaining lubricants) or doing a fill with a single lubricant that I have enough of. So, Mob1 75-145 GL-5 or RL 80-140 GL-5+ is fine for the Rear Drive (with/ or without the moly additive)? Or too viscous at operating temperature? And for the Gearbox, RedlIne MTL 70W-80 GL-4? Or is that too "light?" (I don't want to munt my gearbox. we have enough threads on that already! ) There is also a bottle of Agip 85W-140 GL-4/5 I'd like to use, but for what? I appreciate all of your insight and input!
fotoguzzi Posted August 14, 2016 Posted August 14, 2016 turning over 100,000 miles? I'd treat her to some fresh bought store product of what the book calls for..
Scud Posted August 14, 2016 Posted August 14, 2016 turning over 100,000 miles? I'd treat her to some fresh bought store product of what the book calls for.. ...and save the cocktails for the lawn equipment.
czakky Posted August 15, 2016 Posted August 15, 2016 Wait a minute, you mean you're supposed to change the oil in lawn equipment?
footgoose Posted August 15, 2016 Posted August 15, 2016 Wait a minute, you mean you're supposed to change the oil in lawn equipment? Ha, I have a mower I bought in 1989. I haven't even unscrewed the cap to check the oil. Shameful. Briggs & Stratton 5HP
docc Posted August 15, 2016 Author Posted August 15, 2016 Really ? It's what forums, and The Blues, are for, right? I seem to remember a guy with really (really, really) high miles on his V11 that used to run RL SP Super-light in both the gearbox and the bevel drive. I wonder how that worked out . . . .
Chuck Posted August 16, 2016 Posted August 16, 2016 Pfffft. Much ado about nothing, IMHO> I ran my Centauro with Mobil1 75-145 or the 80-140 for years without issue. If I had a choice, I'd run the heavier weight in the rear drive. I've been running Redline green, whatever weight that is in the Mighty Scura, but didn't have enough to fill the transmission when I put the new centering spring in. So, now I'll be running 700cc green mixed with 150cc pink milk shake in the transmission. I'd be a little concerned about mixing different brands in case of additive packages not being compatible, but not *really* concerned. It's just oil. That said, I run dino in the small blocks with moly in the rear drive. Guzzi guru Sean Fader told me to. Edit for typo
Scud Posted August 16, 2016 Posted August 16, 2016 Pfffft. Much ado about nothing, IMHO> It's just oil. That's how I feel about it - but then I remind myself "you don't know what you don't know" and I try to play it safe by following recommendations. I mean, somebody put some thought into the recommendations... That being said, I'll put anything that's remotely similar into the crankcase to top it off - especially if I'm getting close to an oil change. That's what the blues is all about:
Chuck Posted August 16, 2016 Posted August 16, 2016 ^^^^^ I can dig it. My transmission window is green, though, so I've got the greens.
docc Posted August 24, 2016 Author Posted August 24, 2016 I hope I'm putting all these fluids in the right places. At the right times . . . 2
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