Lucky Phil extender mod

[Chuck]

Chuck, is the CRT a composite input analog NTSC ? (guessing here)  If so, there are LCD replacements in the computer hobby market.  If it's VGA or QVGA, an LCD replacement is easy peasy.

 

Uhh, are you talking 'Merican?  I dunno what it is. It's a 1986 green/black whatever that I've replaced 3 times over the years. I'm *assuming* it's the card. The screen is still bright,but has *really* big numbers at the top and little bitty to mirror image letters at the bottom. I turned a trim pot all the way to make it sort of legible. There is a LCD replacement on Ebay for 15 hunnerd. There is also a guy on Ebay that sells cards, but they don't look anything like the one in the machine.

There is an upgrade to change out everything including servos, ball screws, and electronics for 15 large.  I may go that way instead of throwing money at this antique stuff. Today, the coolant thingy (technical term) quit, and the servos don't seem to have much power for whatever reason.

Needless to say, I'm out of my league. I know enough to know what I don't know. 

I'm muddling along, trying to get these parts ran before shutting it off and getting into the box. I'm afraid if I shut it off it will be the last time..

[LowRyter]

Chuck,  sorry for your loss

 

 

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

[Chuck]

Thanks John.. but I can't complain. After all, it's been running for (gasp) 32 years without throwing the big bucks at it. It's been unsupported for 15. (buy the competition and close it down..) I've managed to keep the mechanical part going, but the electronics are increasingly unavailable.. the same thing as with a modern motorcycle (Guzzi content) I'm afraid. Unfortunately, I'm a parts changer when it comes to the electronics, certainly not good enough to troubleshoot and repair a failed component. 

At any rate, I'll keep plugging along today taking very light cuts with the feed rate turned down. With any luck, I can get this batch of extenders completed. 

[bbolesaz]

Chuck, if you can take a picture of the cables that connect the CRT to the rest of the machine, maybe I can help.

 

Also, send me the link of the replacement on Ebay.

[Chuck]

Chuck, if you can take a picture of the cables that connect the CRT to the rest of the machine, maybe I can help.

 

Also, send me the link of the replacement on Ebay.

 

Thanks, Brian! Will do. Tomorrow.. just came in from s  l  o  w  l  y  running those extenders, and it's beer o'clock.    I'll form them tomorrow, then bead blast and chromate. Should be able to ship early next week.

[Chuck]

Here ya go, Brian..

2018-05-25_08-28-47 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

2018-05-25_08-28-27 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

 

An ebay seller..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replace-9-inch-monochrome-ANILAM-CRUSADER-CRT-with-NEW-LCD/391993910940?epid=2213000820&hash=item5b44a8669c:g:1mYAAOSwU9xUUk0M

[bbolesaz]

Chuck, pretty sure you have a VGA monitor there. The one from ebay is definitely a VGA monitor, you can tell by the 15-pin blue D-sub connector shown on the back. I suspect that the cable bundle marked CRT CNT has a VGA male connector on the end where it plugs into the CRT controller board which is mounted horizontally just under the CRTube itself.  If you could get pictures of that connector (from all angles) I could tell for sure.

 

Google "VGA connector" for pictures and more info.

 

VGA monitors were the standard monitor for PC's in the dark ages (i.e. a couple of years ago).  So, if you don't mind your system looking different, and want a Luigi approved cheap fix, you can find old VGA monitors in most Goodwill stores or equiv. for like $10.  There's about a million of them in closets when people upgraded their PC's to 24" HD monitors.  If you truly have a VGA connector in your system, buy a monitor, put it on top of your unit and run back with an extension cable.  Or, 9" VGA LCD monitors are available new on ebay for about $50 and some minor fabbing would mount it in the existing hole.

[MartyNZ]

... It's a 1986 green/black whatever that I've replaced 3 times over the years. I'm *assuming* it's the card. The screen is still bright,but has *really* big numbers at the top and little bitty to mirror image letters at the bottom. I turned a trim pot all the way to make it sort of legible. ..

The symptoms may be caused by a bad capacitor. Electrolytic capacitors are the 2nd most common components to go bad in older electronic circuits, after "dry" solder joints. If you are handy with a 25w soldering iron, and have lead/tin solder (not lead free) you may be able to repair it.

If it doesn't work now, you can't make it worse.

A fist full of electrolytic caps cost about $20, just match the capacitance (mF or uF), meet or exceed the working voltage, and match the polarity. All 3 are marked on the heat shrink covering. New caps are often physically smaller than the originals, which is ok as long as you can wire it in. A bulged end is a sure sign it is bad.

Remelting all the solder joints so that they are shiny, not grey, can cure dry joints.

You might also check for "chip creep" where IC chips work their way out of sockets. Press the chips down into the sockets after taking care of static.

[Chuck]

Thanks for that, Marty.. I'll give it a look. I'm thinking about upgrading the control, $$$$ but if I don't I'll have to get this crt working.

[Lucky Phil]

Chuck, is the CRT a composite input analog NTSC ? (guessing here)  If so, there are LCD replacements in the computer hobby market.  If it's VGA or QVGA, an LCD replacement is easy peasy.

I'm told NTSC stands for, Normally Terrible Sometimes Crap. Is that any help:)

 

Ciao

[Chuck]

The latest batch of Lucky Phil Extenders (LPEs)   are winging their way toward you as we speak. I'll email everyone with the cost plus shipping.. except Mark and TomC. I'll PM you.

Delivery to the states is expected Saturday, 6/2.

Overseas? Hard to say..but probably 1-2 weeks.

Whew. That's over..it's beer o'clock. 

[Stumble_t]

Thanks so much for knocking this out Chuck!
Now my shifter improvement project will be complete. This will match nicely with my best ever, super deluxe, properly engineered, belts and suspenders shift return spring.        

[docc]

Thanks so much for knocking this out Chuck!

Now my shifter improvement project will be complete. This will match nicely with my best ever, super deluxe, properly engineered, belts and suspenders shift return spring.        

I presume you are also performing LuckyPhil's "Shift Improvement" modifications?

[footgoose]

OK, who was the member that switched out the long shift lever pivot bolt with one with a longer un-threaded section? I can't find one anywhere. The problem with the stock bolt is the threaded section goes too deep into the carrier (on the inner end). The threaded area is a smaller diameter than the collar. Not by much, but causes it to rattle a bit at that spot. I remember someone mentioning it and forgot to follow up.   I  figure as long as we're focusing on shift improvement, why not?

[docc]

OK, who was the member that switched out the long shift lever pivot bolt with one with a longer un-threaded section? I can't find one anywhere. The problem with the stock bolt is the threaded section goes too deep into the carrier (on the inner end). The threaded area is a smaller diameter than the collar. Not by much, but causes it to rattle a bit at that spot. I remember someone mentioning it and forgot to follow up.   I  figure as long as we're focusing on shift improvement, why not?

I don't recall the method of using a longer shaft area on the pivot bolt. I do, periodically, service and adjust my shift lever while adding bronze shim(s) and the correct "pretension" across the pivot before cinching the lock nut. A simple procedure that makes a subtle difference in shift quality without opening the gearbox.