gstallons Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 If you have the Vacula bleed system , reverse bleeding is THE way to go ! If not , use the clear tube w / the loop and squeeze til you get it !
Chuck Posted October 6, 2016 Posted October 6, 2016 I use a syringe and push the fluid to the reservoir. Air bubbles go in front of the fluid if you do it right. Works on airplanes with their convoluted brake lines and many times two master cylinders in line.
docc Posted October 6, 2016 Posted October 6, 2016 If you have the Vacula bleed system , reverse bleeding is THE way to go ! If not , use the clear tube w / the loop and squeeze til you get it ! Why the loop?
JBBenson Posted October 6, 2016 Posted October 6, 2016 If you have the Vacula bleed system , reverse bleeding is THE way to go ! If not , use the clear tube w / the loop and squeeze til you get it ! Why the loop? The loop keeps the expelled air bubbles from getting sucked back into the cylinder. I bought a bleed bottle that makes it easier, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-GA3075-Cable-Bleeder-Bottle/dp/B000W7F2GI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475763431&sr=1-1&keywords=brake+bleeding+bottle I have tried those reverse bleeders, (like Mity-vac), I could never get them to work properly. So I use the bleeder bottle and squeezing the lever. A lot.
bobbysworld86 Posted October 6, 2016 Author Posted October 6, 2016 If you have the Vacula bleed system , reverse bleeding is THE way to go ! If not , use the clear tube w / the loop and squeeze til you get it ! I use a syringe and push the fluid to the reservoir. Air bubbles go in front of the fluid if you do it right. Works on airplanes with their convoluted brake lines and many times two master cylinders in line.I'll try that way! Looks super simple, watched a video on how to do it. Thanks!
Stick Posted October 6, 2016 Posted October 6, 2016 I posted this "no bleed method" on Ducati.ms to remove the narsty air bubble up near your master cylinder: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wisdom/219873-tip-no-bleed-method-removing-air-bubble-clutch-banjo-fitting.html You may want to give it a try.
Chuck Posted October 6, 2016 Posted October 6, 2016 Oh, another thing. *I've not tried it on a clutch* but if you have bled to where you have "some pedal" or lever, zip tie the lever back to the bar as hard as you can hold it, or hang a 20 lb. weight off the brake lever over night. When you cut the zip tie, or remove the lever, Viola! It's bled.
Lucky Phil Posted October 7, 2016 Posted October 7, 2016 On bikes with angled bars you also get air trapped at the master cylinder connection. Loosen off the master and remove from the bar with the line still connected obviously and carefully raise the lever end until its slightly higher than the connection ( you need the reservior level under half usually) and then very carefully work the lever slightly, repeatedly,just taking the freeplay out of it and you will notice air bubbles coming into the reservior. Bolt it back on the bar and check. Juggling the lever with it in the position mentioned breaks free the bubbles in the connector point and they then float into the reservior through the return port. Ciao
gstallons Posted October 7, 2016 Posted October 7, 2016 A couple of years ago , I was helping a buddy bleed the front brakes on a BMW with dual ( I think ) front calipers. We ran 2 qts of fluid with every device / procedure possible . James finally called a buddy over at Grassroots BMW . They advised him ( I think this was the technique ) to put it on the sidestand pointing uphill , point the handlebars in a certain direction and hook up the bleed hose with the loop , pour fluid in and squeeze the lever until the air bubble comes out. I swear to GOD it bled in less than 20 seconds. When you find the way to do this w/o much trouble , please post it !
Scud Posted October 7, 2016 Posted October 7, 2016 I have not had this problem yet on my Guzzis, but that's sounds like what I do on my BMW K75s - works in seconds. You just have to study how the lines go - tilt the bars (or the whole bike) till there is no peak in the lines where air can get trapped (or detach it if needed like Phil says). It's much easier to get air to bubble up back into the master than to force it down through the calipers. When no more air returns to the reservoir, you're done. That said - speed bleeders are also good at pushing air out. You can just keep squeezing the lever without tightening and loosening the nipple - you keep the fluid moving faster than the bubbles can rise.
leroysch Posted October 11, 2016 Posted October 11, 2016 Scud's right, one of the better investments I've made for this purpose http://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143
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