clean electrical connections

[docc]

I've long been a devotée of opening, cleaning, and sealing electrical connections. I'm a firm believer that this, alone, has been a huge contributor to my Sport's reliability.

 

From gstallons, Wayne Orwig, and Kiwi_Roy, I learned that silicone based "dielectric" grease is anathema (bad medicine) to reliable electrics. Petroleum jelly only, then! *Vaseline über alles!*

 

I've been using CRG Electronics Cleaner since it's available locally, but have long been intrigued by the lure of Caid Deoxit.

 

Seems that could be more than one product though? Somehow, I always get confused *which* Caig Deoxit to use?

 

So, I bring this deep and abiding query to The Mighty Favog . . .

http://vignette1.wikia.nocookie.net/muppet/images/c/c3/Snlsketch1.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20061217032757

[fotoguzzi]

[czakky]

I've used the deoxit contact cleaner quite a bit really great stuff. They also make a "sealant" type thin lubricant in an aerosol can mainly for potentiometers and such (I.e. The dials on your amps and old receivers) to keep out corrosion on more sensitive electronics. One of there most interesting products is the conductive dielectric grease.... Yes conductive grease that has microscopic pieces of copper in it. I use it quite a bit at work and it really helps clean up irregular electric signals. That's all I got. Not sure if deoxit contact cleaner will make a huge difference over the stuff you use on a v11 but for more critical connections it's the stuff!

 

@ foto, is that what you traded your v11 for? You're younger than I would've imagined.

[MartyNZ]

I've long been a devotée of opening, cleaning, and sealing electrical connections. I'm a firm believer that this, alone, has been a huge contributor to my Sport's reliability.

From gstallons, Wayne Orwig, and Kiwi_Roy, I learned that silicone based "dielectric" grease is anathema (bad medicine) to reliable electrics. Petroleum jelly only, then! *Vaseline über alles!*

I agree that opening, cleaning and sealing electrical connections is a good way to improve reliability. Poor connections are most often caused by moisture and/or oxygen forming an electrically insulating layer (tarnish or corrosion) in the joint. Vaseline does a good job of excluding both water and oxygen from a plug or terminal.

I used Dow Corning Compound 4, as it is specifically designed for this application, so I thought it would be even better than vaseline.

Dow says this about DC4: "A moisture proof seal for aircraft, automotive and marine ignition systems and spark plug connections, disconnection junctions in electrical wiring systems also in electrical assemblies and terminals".

 

I cleaned all the connectors on my bike, then filled them so full of DC4 that it oozed out as the connectors were plugged. Same with relay bases & lamp sockets.

However, DC4 is a silicon based dielectic grease. It is also non-conductive, but squeezes out to allow metal to metal pin & socket contact.

Have I made a mistake?

If Gstallons, Wayne Orwig, and Kiwi_Roy think silicon is bad, should I clean it out of the connectors?

https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/319850.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjvgq3T1YXPAhXFKZQKHXU4DW4QFggfMAI&usg=AFQjCNHauFpF8tXzI_HDDEzfDusfYwoyug

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0195UWAHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473581534&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=dc4&dpPl=1&dpID=4197U0ONekL&ref=plSrch

[gstallons]

 p.s. if it is used in marine / aircraft applications it is good.

[Kiwi_Roy]

For the record I have never had a bad experience with silicone grease because I have never used it. 

Several guys on here who I respect have spoken out against it, that's good enough for me.

It's supposed to be good for spark plug caps.

 

I have never used Craigs DeOxit but I would have bought a can to try except there are several different kinds and it's expensive.

 

I was taught to use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on contacts and batteries over 50 years ago, it's never let me down. I use it also on

wires before I crimp them if it's a wet area, it stops the copper oxidizing.

 

MartyNZ, if DC4 is approved for aircraft one would assume it's been well tested, you will find out and let us know?

[gstallons]

If I am going to use crimp connectors where they are going to be outside , I use Motorcraft electrical connector grease and where open plug connectors are .

[MartyNZ]

MartyNZ, if DC4 is approved for aircraft one would assume it's been well tested, you will find out and let us know?

DC-4 is approved in Airbus Consumable Materials List as 03JAB1, and in Boeing Qualified Products List as D00254. See manual extracts in attachment

It has been on the market for 70 years, so I expect that Dow's patent has expired. Motocraft electrical grease, and "bulb grease" could be the same stuff.

 

The bad thing about this, and any silicon product, is that it makes painting difficult. It won't harm paint, but if it gets on something you want to paint in the future, then it will need special attention to cleaning. It repels paint spray just like it repels water.

DC-4 Dielectric Grease.pdf

[Kiwi_Roy]

I expect DC4 must be better than Vaseline for anywhere hot. As you say paint won't stick to anything touched with Silicone, I worked for a short while in a VW wheel plant, they banned the stuff,

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

[docc]

My recollection is that silicone will gradually form a silicon dioxide ("glass") layer on any switch or relay contacts from the effects of the brief arc that occurs as the contacts make or break.  Glass, of course, is a tremendous insulator.

 

Also (again, my recollection from a knowledgeable person), that Ford Motor Company discovered  infiltration of wiring for a considerable distance leading to concerns of the formation of silicon dioxide and degradation of electrical conductivity.

 

Being a poor scientist myself, these are just recollections of statements I found compelling.

[gstallons]

Sounds good to me !

[Cyborg]

As far as I know, DC4 is silicone based and won't form silicon dioxide. (Feel free to correct me on that one) Silicone and silicon are two distinctly different things. I would use DC4 because of the higher melting point. As mentioned, it's used in aviation as well as the auto and marine industries. Silicone is indeed a problem when repainting, but it is so prevalent everywhere that you have to account for it anyway. Personally I wouldn't worry about using it on that account. Most pre painting cleaners that I have seen list removal of silicone as one of the features.

[docc]

Understood regarding silicone versus silicon, yet if a high intensity electrical arc is passed through silicone grease, can the elemental silicon be oxidized into the glass-like compound silicon dioxide?

 

I dunno, but there are sources that say "uh-oh" especially in proximity to relays and switches.

 

Sounds like Vaseline is safe. For all sorts of fun and interesting applications . . .

[Cyborg]

My knowledge of chemistry is pretty much limited to the process of turning beer into urine, so my grasp of silicone forming silicon dioxide is limited. Part of my career was spent chasing electrical gremlins and never encountered problems from the use of that type of (silicone) grease. You could separate connectors that were 20 or more years old and not come across any problems. Never seen it used inside a relay and any switch that I saw exposed to it has been low voltage. I guess it boils down to whatever you are comfortable with. The fact that it's approved for helping to keep us at 40,000 ft is reassuring.

 

I will petition the chemistry gods and see if I can come up with a definitive answer.

[Cyborg]

OK.... so according to the guy who knows... If you get above 200 c or 392 f, you could begin to drive off the silicone oil in the DC4, thus causing the silica filler to be left behind and  silicon dioxide. Thought it would have been a higher temp than that. Vaseline melts at about 37 c or 99 f, so I'm "sticking" with the silicone grease.