Decent Tune-up

[Chuck]

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The effect is Very small, almost negligible, but you can see the effect on the twin max when messing with the joint.   

The technical term for that is "picking the fly shit out of the pepper." You'll never notice it when going down the road.

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Dave Blue was in town so i got him to tune her for me, and he did a great job (and was a real pleasure to meet him).

Yeah, Dave's a good guy.

[gstallons]

My personal opinion . I want the throttle blades to be exactly the same PERIOD any multi carb motorcycle ( in my opinion ) wants the throttle angle to be the same .

 on my bike I set them with CLEAN throttle bores and throttle blades . After you have set the tps V to .157 mV with the r.h. throttle blade closed , 0 contact w/choke kicker and linkage disconnected .

 I go to the l.h. throttle and turn the idle screw tii it touches and add 1/6 of a turn . I do the same on the r.h. idle screw until there is no clearance , then I attach the linkage and  turn the white knob until it will hold a 0.002" feeler gauge against the throttle . Turn  the knob until the feeler gauge falls .

 Then I call it good . Clean the air bypass screws , turn them in until they stop . Back out 1/2 turn for starters .

 Then adjust the l.h. idle screw until you get 0.450 mV or 0,540 mV depending on who you want to listen to .  Start it up let it get warm and see how you like it .

[Gmc28]

11 hours ago, Chuck said:

The technical term for that is "picking the fly shit out of the pepper." You'll never notice it when going down the road.

Yeah, Dave's a good guy.

Excellent.  Took out for a good test run today as the sun came out... glorious spring day.  She ran like a proper Italian... very sweet.  For the first couple minutes, I did my usual nit picking, wondering about what’s wrong, then realized that she was really running great, and to embrace it. 

I’ll probably play a little with the low/idle rpm TBS using the air screws, and only because “why not” keep fussing with it, but I’m very happy with how she runs.  I actually packed the twinmax a screwdriver with me on the long-ish test ride, thinking I’d do some ride-and-sync, but she ran sweet and the riding was too good to pull over.  Still a bit of the rpm/fuelling “wandering” at lower to mid rpm, but am thinking that a Meinolf map might be the ticket there. Maybe next winter, or if life eases up on the throttle a bit this summer and allows for some time. 

BTW, for the record my CO trim was at +10 when i first hooked up the magic laptop.  I left it there.  Probably explains why she has always pullled so much better at lower rpm than Goldie.  Will be plugging in Goldie next, and see where her CO trim is set...

[Gmc28]

Pulled Goldie over to the rack yesterday to check out TPS, CO trim, and the do a double check on the TBS.  i love a “smoking gun”... its rewarding, and found the CO trim at -40, and the TPS at somewhere around 182.  Set now at zero and 157, respectively.  TBS was still dead-on, but looking forward to the coming weeks sunshine to get her out and see how she runs!

[gstallons]

As in completely closed throttle plate / 0.157 V ?

[Gmc28]

As in completely closed throttle plate / 0.157 V ?

Yes. I Backed off right side idle screw (had been set high, and on the right side). And yes, .157, or 157mv.

[Grim]

On 4/19/2020 at 6:40 PM, gstallons said:

 then I attach the linkage and  turn the white knob until it will hold a 0.002" feeler gauge against the throttle . Turn  the knob until the feeler gauge falls .

 

Can you elaborate please? So you put a feeler gauge behind the r.h. idle screw and then adjust the white knowb till it contacts?
I am trying to get a feel for lots of different peoples approaches, hoping that one sticks...

[Gmc28]

1 hour ago, Grim said:

Can you elaborate please? So you put a feeler gauge behind the r.h. idle screw and then adjust the white knowb till it contacts?
I am trying to get a feel for lots of different peoples approaches, hoping that one sticks...

like doing a valve adjustment.... put a thin feeler gauge between throttle arm and the idle/set screw, and tighten screw until it just barely pinches the feeler, a very thin one (or thicker, but then tighter... you get the idea).   but getting it up in there between the throttle and the screw on the right side is a hassle. 

[gstallons]

2 hours ago, Grim said:

Can you elaborate please? So you put a feeler gauge behind the r.h. idle screw and then adjust the white knowb till it contacts?
I am trying to get a feel for lots of different peoples approaches, hoping that one sticks...

 

It is easier to do than you think . Read , reread and execute .

Disconnect the balance rod .

 Adjust the l.h. idle screw in until you can hold the 0.002" feeler ga. with the screw against the throttle linkage , remove and turn the idle screw 1/6 of a turn in .

 Now , Put this 0.002" feeler gauge between the r.h.idle stop screw and the throttle plate "plate" and tighten the screw until it holds the feeler gauge .

 Connect the balance shaft rod and make sure there is still pressure holding the feeler gauge . I use the pin that goes into the throttle body instead of the ball/socket of the balance rod . There is an e-clip holding this pin in position . Be careful removing it .  This is easier and more precise . You want to adjust this "knob" so the pin goes into it's position easily .

 With all this in place , start tightening the white knob , when things are correct , the feeler gauge falls out and you are done .

 PERFECT , no . Good enough for me , yes .  I regret not being smart enough to post pics or videos .

Go over the directions until you can do this w/o thinking or second guessing yourself . I use the 0.002" blade because that is as thin as my set goes and I leave it the gauge with the rest of the assy. to give it some weight . This is because it will fall as soon as it gets loose .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

i

[gstallons]

And , when you finish all this , adjust the idle stop screw to achieve 0.450 V on the TPS . 

[docc]

Just to clarify relative to the thread topic, this interesting discussion and mechanical linkage adjustment is not part of the “Decent Tune-up” but offers some alternatives for certain aspects of tuning the V11.

@gstallons : Why the specific idle mV? Why not just set it to some desired rpm at that point?

[gstallons]

If you want to put this in a better section , please do .  

AFA , to answer the 2nd ? , I printed and studied about four procedures and used what I thought was best . They all agreed on 0.157V at closed throttle ( idle screw out ) . After everything was done , adjust the throttle plate to 0.450V ( according to three procedures ) for the ECM reference to idle . One procedure said 0.540V . I took that to me maybe a mistaken # . I still have a ream of paper from WG , MGC and others on the directions somewhere around here .

 This was a very difficult thing to get four recipes on banana pudding and get one that tasted perfect .And I love bananapuddin' . Yes , that is the correct pronunciation .

 . After dialing in Whitney ( red frame ) to PERFECTION , I went back to the black frame . 8 NGKs , two stranded on the side of the roads , and making sure I had arson insurance , I unhooked the Power Un Commander . The moment I started cranking the bike I knew what was wrong . THE PC was f'd up . I did all this because I denied the PC was at fault . 

 

[docc]

All good on leaving discussion here. The first post with the 6-step “Decent Tune-up” remains as a reference. I just wanted to clarify for those trying to decide where to start and what to do.

Certainly, there have been numerous approaches to this tuning. The Workshop Manual specifies idle in degrees opening of the throttle plate. This has been converted to mV.  I’ll look up the values and post later just for FYI.

[docc]

The Workshop Manual states 3.6º +/- 0.5º opening which translates to 5.10-5.38 mV.

FWIW, I'm still in the camp that says that idle value doesn't matter if you have everything else right. Seems to me there are a lot of variables that could affect your individual V11 and the individual rider's desired idle.

[Lucky Phil]

50 minutes ago, docc said:

The Workshop Manual states 3.6º +/- 0.5º opening which translates to 5.10-5.38 mV.

FWIW, I'm still in the camp that says that idle value doesn't matter if you have everything else right. Seems to me there are a lot of variables that could affect your individual V11 and the individual rider's desired idle.

Seems to me docc the idle value is just a ball park starting figure after the TPS setting so when you start the bike it's somewhere near the mark. It's not in my view a "tuning setting" just a starting reference point.

Ciao