docc Posted March 16, 2017 Posted March 16, 2017 I would have no idea where to find that... What's my headstock plate? On the left side at the front of the frame where the upright tube is for the steering head bearings. The build date will be inscribed (month - year).
Tinus89 Posted March 21, 2017 Author Posted March 21, 2017 Feeling really stupid... I could have known this! Finally found time to go and check on the bike (it's not at my house). Even though it's an '01, the headstock plate states 0007/00, so I'm presuming that indicates July '00?
Tinus89 Posted March 22, 2017 Author Posted March 22, 2017 Correct. Apparently well after the rod recall. Thanks! That is comforting:). I did decide to change-out the rod bolts anyway.
Tinus89 Posted April 1, 2017 Author Posted April 1, 2017 In the mean time (while waiting for the crankshaft polishing etc), I decided to have a look at my gearbox leak... The leak originates from one of the two centre shafts for the shift clocks (or how do you call them). That pin just drops out, the other one is nice and stuck in the housing. I'm guessing the housing got some wear, causing the pin to be loose. But how would you solve this? Would it be possible to cut an o-ring groove in the pin? Or would that weaken it too much? Any other suggestions? Images are clickable for large.
motortouring Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 I didnt read everything, but the valve clearance should be": Loosen or unscrew the adjustment screw “D” until you obtain the following backlashes: - Intake valve 0,10 mm; - Exhaust valve 0,15 mm I thought you had 0.05 mm more.
motortouring Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 And what is the milage (km-stand) of this beauty?
Scud Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 In the mean time (while waiting for the crankshaft polishing etc), I decided to have a look at my gearbox leak... The leak originates from one of the two centre shafts for the shift clocks (or how do you call them). That pin just drops out, the other one is nice and stuck in the housing. I'm guessing the housing got some wear, causing the pin to be loose. But how would you solve this? Would it be possible to cut an o-ring groove in the pin? Or would that weaken it too much? Any other suggestions? Images are clickable for large. If the pin still fits snugly (doesn't wobble in the cover) and if it was shifting well, you could try re-installing it with some sealant, such as ThreeBond 1211 - or whatever you're going to use to seal the case when you reinstall it on the transmission. If the pin wobbles, maybe take it to a machine shop. They can smooth out both surfaces - and they can install a sleeve in either the case or the pin so that it can be pressed in again for a perfect fit. (maybe Docc could move these two transmission posts to the shift improvement thread?) [moderator edit: Next best thing, I'll link the Shift Improvement thread here]: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547
Tinus89 Posted April 1, 2017 Author Posted April 1, 2017 And what is the milage (km-stand) of this beauty? Correct, I had set the valve clearance to "World" settings for this beauty, which is 0.15mm and 0.20mm. Tighter settings do not take away the sound. She has done 34.000km If the pin still fits snugly (doesn't wobble in the cover) and if it was shifting well, you could try re-installing it with some sealant, such as ThreeBond 1211 - or whatever you're going to use to seal the case when you reinstall it on the transmission. If the pin wobbles, maybe take it to a machine shop. They can smooth out both surfaces - and they can install a sleeve in either the case or the pin so that it can be pressed in again for a perfect fit. (maybe Docc could move these two transmission posts to the shift improvement thread?) It does not wobble about and it was shifting well. Had already tried using liquid gasket to seal it: worked for about a month, and then it was forced loose again by rotation of the pin, causing it to leak again.
Tinus89 Posted April 7, 2017 Author Posted April 7, 2017 Update on the tranny: I ended up using a metal glue from the brand Bison, which should do the trick! Seems to be very strong, see if that holds:) Another thing I discovered while the tranny was "parked": A leaking exit shaft seal... Can I replace that with the shaft in place? How hard is that, any tricks?
Bbennett Posted April 7, 2017 Posted April 7, 2017 My V11 Sport does not have this high pitched mechanical sound FWIW
Tinus89 Posted April 10, 2017 Author Posted April 10, 2017 Update on the tranny: I ended up using a metal glue from the brand Bison, which should do the trick! Seems to be very strong, see if that holds:) Another thing I discovered while the tranny was "parked": A leaking exit shaft seal... Can I replace that with the shaft in place? How hard is that, any tricks? Anyone?
MartyNZ Posted April 10, 2017 Posted April 10, 2017 Yes, you can easily replace a seal with the shaft in place. If you search for "seal removal tool" you will see there are lots of tools that can help you. I use one like this to remove seals while the shaft is still in place: It is unlikely that you will remove the seal without damage to the seal, so you should try to have a replacement in your hand before you wreck the old one. Be careful not to scratch the shaft or seal housing as you pry it out. Have you seen this posting? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19778
Tinus89 Posted April 10, 2017 Author Posted April 10, 2017 I had not seen that posting, thanks! Mine has done 34k km in 16yrs, so I am not surprised it leaks. Seals harden over the years as well and it is exposed to the elements. I already have the (original) replacement seal at home. I'm considering removing the rear cover altogether, which should make replacing the seal far more easy... How how is that? Anything I should pay close attention to?
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