What oil?

[Guest SoCal Nick]

Just wondering what oil everyone is using. I have always had good luck with Mobil1 in my other bikes, but I have read about people blaming synthetic oil for damaging bearings, etc in their Guzzi's. This is a first for me, never heard anyone else mention synthetics harming anything other than the odd wet clutch. Since the V11 has a dry clutch, is oil with anti friction additives OK?

 

Also, the manual calls for SAE90 gear oil. I had a quick look in the bike store on the way home and saw 80 & 85 weight, but no 90. Am I just not looking hard enough, or is 85 OK.

[Guest captain nemo]

Nick,

 

We love talkin about oil. It comes up about once a month. As far as I can tell, it seems people like to break in the bike with dino juice and then switch to synthetic at around 16,000 kilometers. (note, we are changing all measures to metric here). Of course, the owner's manual says synthetic. I don't really think it matters. I use Mobil 1 and have ZERO leaks. I bought the bike used, so I don't know how it was broken in. It was, however, a demo bike and was thrashed right out of the crate. I actually believe this is a good thing. I believe you should thrash, not baby, a brand new bike.

 

I use very light gear oil - like 70 weight. This is because I have found it gets thick easily in the cold and causes some real funky shifting. If it is cold where you are, you are fine using a thinner gear oil.

[al_roethlisberger]

...oh shit

[belfastguzzi]

...oh,  shit

...you use that in yours!

 

(...and to think some people complain about the smell of burnt oil!)

[Guest John T]

See the old wife in the photo? She has lots of tales about synthetic oil.

 

What I would do is open your owners manual and report back here and tell the old lady what Guzzi recommends.

[Guest russ]

As long as we use a different oil than this guy!

[Guest WildJackal]

Ya the manual sez to use synthetic oil. It also sez to use 20/50w. Are youse guys using 20/50w or 10/40w as some dealers suggest?

 

Please explain the "oh. shit" for us newbies ....

[docc]

I'm pretty sure that is the shortest post Al ever made. If you,ve never followed an "oil thread" before, you should enjoy this. There is always a thorough mix of advice , zeal, humor, frustration, zeal, religion, economics and zeal. Did i mention the zeal? We love oil! And like certain orfices, we all have some.

 

Pete posted an interesting observation recently that ( I'm paraphrasing deeply), no , synthetics don't make leaks but if you switch from one type oil to another it can stimulate some leaking. I have observed this in my auto.

 

These 6-speeds are another story. The most highly recommended product is Redline Shockproof Gearoil ( which is a synthetic - blue, too). I'm running 75-150 which they consider "Lightweight". The Superlight is lower viscosity and heavy weight is higher. Lots of guys use the heavy depending on their astrological sign and degree of zeal.

[Janusz]

Of course, the owner's manual says synthetic. I don't really think it matters.

After all what do they know at Moto Guzzi factory; all they do is make these bikes.

[Steve G.]

In general, you have to say that synthetic is the best thing you can do for your engine to increase it's service life. You do have to justify in your mind the extra cost of the stuff.

In particular to the Moto Guzzi V11 based machines, it's quite simple really. Follow the manufacturers recommendation. Synthetic.

I am starting to hear these stories about some additive in synthetic causing phenolic bearings [plastic race cages instead of brass] to break down. Unfortunately phenolic bearings are the norm these days instead of the rare occurance. The big rumour is synthetic gearbox oil damaging the races in the gearbox bearings. Surely a company would not call for synthetic knowing it would damage the bearings.

Ciao, Steve G.

[Guest Thundering Subash]

My two cents. If you have a new Goose, I personally wouldn't buy the expensive stuff until it's run in 5,000 or so miles. It would be a shame to leak all that expensive oil and gear lube onto the ground.

[gthyni]

My two cents. If you have a new Goose, I personally wouldn't buy the expensive stuff until it's run in 5,000 or so miles. It would be a shame to leak all that expensive oil and gear lube onto the ground.

So you suggest using cheap oil during break-in

when the friction is at its highest.

 

Sounds like the right thing to do

[belfastguzzi]

My two cents.  If you have a new Goose,  I personally wouldn't buy the expensive stuff until it's run in 5,000 or so miles.  It would be a shame to leak all that expensive oil and gear lube onto the ground.

So you suggest using cheap oil during break-in

when the friction is at its highest.

 

Sounds like the right thing to do

But cheap doesn't mean bad, it doesn't mean that it does not meet the specifications and does not do its job.

 

One thing cheaper does mean is that you might be prepared to change it more often, which is a good thing on a new motor.

[gthyni]

But cheap doesn't mean bad, it doesn't mean that it does not meet the specifications and does not do its job.

 

One thing cheaper does mean is that you might be prepared to change it more often, which is a good thing on a new motor.

OK,

depending on what you mean by cheap.

 

But if the difference in friction is like this

 

 

at least do not pick up the cheapest bottle mineral oil on your local petrol station.

 

:mg:s are keepers so threat them well and you will get the same in return.

[Guest geezerx]