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30 amp fuse failure


docc

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I know its non alcoholic but at least the thermal image tells me its cold!

IMG_5007.jpg

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If your buddy has any more of those he wants to part with , my birthday is the 11th of this month !

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8 hours ago, DucatiGuzziIndian said:

 the fuses were cooler than the underlying area... maybe its the input wiring temp????

Yes, that makes sense. Generally speaking, a contact such as the plugs in the fuse sockets will have a higher resistance than the wires that is is connecting. A higher resistance at constant current will produce more warmth than a lower one. The current through the circuit is constant all the way through, so therefore the contacts will be a bit warmer than the rest.

Still, 50°C seems a bit warm to me. Have you cleaned the fuse sockets up?

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Ha Ha! gstallons... I wish he had more of them!

 

You'd think there would be a better fuse block available somewhere in the world that we could use here... Surely marine or aeronautical parts would be better. I have cleaned everything in the base of the fuse block. The images show heat in the expected location.... it's just a question of how much heat is acceptable and how much is too much..... and I don't know the answer to that.

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I hear ya . These fuses are the 2nd to the largest blade fuses in production . The largest fuses would be insane to adapt into a new fuse block. 

IDK how much a temp change is "ok" on a fuse panel . The current is going through that one sliver of "fuse" , so this should be the reason for the temp change .

 

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4 hours ago, gstallons said:

...The current is going through that one sliver of "fuse" ...

Yes, but the "heat photos" show that it is not the fuse itself that is getting warm. I wouldn't expect that, either, except when the current is getting close to the limit for the fuse.

What is getting warm is the contacts in the socket, and that makes sense. All things being equal, that is where the highest resistance in the circuit is to be expected. :huh2:

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Even the large "Maxi" fuse I tried failed because of the contact heat.

Original post...

gallery_328_223_1016816.jpeg

 

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It occurs to me to mention that it is not only the blade connector that can have a bad contact. The crimp on the wire into the connector can also go bad. A good crimp is theoretically air tight, and should last a very long time. If the crimp is a bit shoddy, corrosion and oxidation can find their way into the crimp and cause a resistive contact.

If there are persistant problems with bad contacts (too much warmth) despite cleaning and fettling, I would be inclined to pull the connector out of the socket and check the crimp. :)

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52 minutes ago, docc said:

Even the large "Maxi" fuse I tried failed because of the contact heat.

Original post...

gallery_328_223_1016816.jpeg

 

At the risk of mentioning this and upsetting the cantankerous god of magic smoke.....

I haven't had an issue with fuses since having a Shendengan Reg/Rec and extra ground installed many years ago!

Cheers Guzzler

Ps what's the betting now I've mentioned it....?

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3 minutes ago, guzzler said:

Ps what's the betting now I've mentioned it....?

She'll be right mate, no worries... B)

 

Seriously, though, having a good regulator in the system will keep the volts under control. That, in turn, will keep the waste heat from bad connections under control.

The formula is here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joule_heating#Direct_current

P = V²/R

The resistance of the contact is constant, so the higher the voltage across the contact, the more work is done (power generated = heat generated). So keeping the voltage under control also keeps the heat generated within limits.

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Cheers Mick.

Might need a few sips o the magic Shiraz to get my head around that formula, but your description makes it understandable!

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2 hours ago, guzzler said:

Cheers Mick.

Might need a few sips o the magic Shiraz to get my head around that formula, but your description makes it understandable!

and a pie!

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Haha, just finished a load o wood and I reckon a pie sounds like a bloody great idea mate!

Shiraz o clock in t minus 2 hour 15 mins.....

Cheers 

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

I am looking the last six pages of this thread and am investigating a dedicated thread for @LaGrasta's circumstance. Very challenging splitting these threads. Bear with me . . .

edit: 77 posts, over six months, split to create a dedicated thread and challenge us to figure out @LaGrasta's circumstance:

 

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docc , I am glad because I don't think anyone has an idea about a sequence of events or any sequence of diagnosis or steps on repairing this issue . I am sure no one knows for sure what has been done to repair this simple problem. 

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