30 amp fuse failure

[luhbo]

It's not a big thing. Keep the contacts clean, let the cover open, maybe replace the fuse from time to time. Works perfectly for me.
Or, more action, disassemble the fuse holder and from the downside solder a 30 Amp fuse to the correct cables. Then, in case this fuse should unexpectedly fail resp. burn you could still plug in a spare one from above and ride on.
BTW, putting in two 15A in parallel is not a good idea.
 

[Kiwi_Roy]

On 10/13/2019 at 1:55 PM, luhbo said:

It's not a big thing. Keep the contacts clean, let the cover open, maybe replace the fuse from time to time. Works perfectly for me.
Or, more action, disassemble the fuse holder and from the downside solder a 30 Amp fuse to the correct cables. Then, in case this fuse should unexpectedly fail resp. burn you could still plug in a spare one from above and ride on.
BTW, putting in two 15A in parallel is not a good idea.
 

I like that as you say you would be able to replace it until you have a chance to solder another in.

I had one fuse weld in so I cleaned up the contacts and tightened the clips and it never re-occured.

I always meant to look at the current with an oscilloscope, I'm sure the peaks must be well over 30.

[luhbo]

I guess peaks wouldn't do much harm.
Besides that 30A x 14V make for over 400W, well beyond what the alternator can deliver, not to mention the losses in the regulator and wiring etc.
In my opinion it's only a matter of cheap non-automotive fuse holder contacts.

[sp838]

Just ordered one, along with an m-unit blue. Still lovely weather up here, as soon as things turn ugly, the Winter of Re-Wiring shall begin. Very much looking forward to it actually!

[Tinus89]

2 hours ago, sp838 said:

Just ordered one, along with an m-unit blue. Still lovely weather up here, as soon as things turn ugly, the Winter of Re-Wiring shall begin. Very much looking forward to it actually!

What exactly did you order?

[sp838]

35 minutes ago, Tinus89 said:

What exactly did you order?

The Chuck / docc 30 amp circuit breaker. And the new motogadget m-unit.

[v11_meticcio]

Ciao a tutti. chiedo scusa ma non parlo inglese, quindi userò un traduttore per raccontare la mia esperienza.
anche io ho avuto problemi con il fusibile da 30 sul mio V11, sin da quando l'ho acquistato nel 2005. premetto che il mio V11 proviene direttamente dal "Reparto Esperienze" o "Reparto Sperimentale" della fabbrica Moto Guzzi, aveva percorso circa 2800 km solo in pista. in pratica la mia moto è un V11 del 2005 su base Le Mans utilizzato in pista dalla casa madre per dei test in circuito su elettronica, centralina, sospensioni, forcelle, ciclistica ecc ecc. Una specie di prototipo da gara credo. le forcelle anteriori riportano ancora la scritta "prot. nr. 2". comunque, tornando a noi, il fusibile fondeva e non ricaricava la batteria. all'inizio ogni 100 km circa sostituivo il fusibile prima che fondesse definitivamente. poi il mio meccanico mi ha fatto un bypass del fusibile da 30 che dal 2005 ha resistito fino al mese scorso, senza mai cambiarlo, quando si è fuso di nuovo. Ora ho già provveduto a cambiare bypass con uno nuovo ermetico. spero regga, anche perché il fusibile scalda tanto. 

Hello to all. I apologize but I do not speak English, so I will use a translator to tell my experience. I also had problems with the 30-degree fuse on my V11, since I bought it in 2005. I state that my V11 comes directly from the "Experiences Department" or "Experimental Department" of the Moto Guzzi factory, it had covered about 2800 km only on the track. in practice my bike is a 2005 V11 based on Le Mans used on the track by the parent company for circuit tests on electronics, control unit, suspension, forks, chassis, etc. etc. A kind of race prototype I think. the front forks still bear the inscription "prot. nr. 2". however, returning to us, the fuse melted and did not recharge the battery. at the beginning, every 100 km replaced the fuse before it finally melted. then my mechanic made me a bypass of the 30-degree fuse that since 2005 has lasted until last month, without ever changing it, when it melted again. Now I've already changed the bypass with a new airtight seal. I hope it holds, also because the fuse heats up a lot.

 

[v11_meticcio]

[v11_meticcio]

Nuovo bypass

[Chuck]

Apparently, this problem is from a loose or corroded 30 amp fuse connector. There is a long thread where Docc installed a 30 amp circuit breaker instead of the fuse holder. I think that has worked well. It does away with the tension of the fuse holder, and *should* be a good repair. 

[docc]

On 11/4/2019 at 6:29 PM, Chuck said:

Apparently, this problem is from a loose or corroded 30 amp fuse connector. There is a long thread where Docc installed a 30 amp circuit breaker instead of the fuse holder. I think that has worked well. It does away with the tension of the fuse holder, and *should* be a good repair. 

That would be this very thread . . .

Circuit breaker has been running three years, 14,000 miles/22.500 km. I routinely shut it off to isolate the regulator during external charging as instructed by my OEM regulator supplier.

[IE417]

Last night while riding my Scura on the highway the charge light came on and about minute or so later the bike died.  I coasted to a stop on the side of the road.  No tools, light, or tech info.  Called tow truck and brought the bike home.  I'm hoping it's just this 30A fuse issue.  Tomorrow morning I will check it out and report back.

In the less than 2000 miles I have owned this bike, this is the second breakdown.  The first was broken shift spring.  Not too thrilled... 

[Steve S]

If the fuse looks ok check the connectors from the alternator to the reg/rec for overheating

[IE417]

The 30A fuse which is still in it's original place in fusebox was blown.  It was a bit swollen, and electrically open.  The socket is tight and clean, doesn't look like it was getting hot from high resistance.

I temporarily put a 20A fuse in there and it start and ran, and charged at 13.3.  When I revved up the engine to higher revs, it popped the 20A fuse.  I had the voltmeter on the battery at this time and the charging voltage was pretty steady at 13.3V when it popped the fuse, so I am assuming regulator part of RR is good.  

THe battery (lithium battery tender battery) was on battery tender overnight, and was fully charged.

Next tests I will is current draw on fuel pump, headlight etc.

[Pressureangle]

I worked on RV's for some years. They're full of Maxifuses. I've seen a lot.

What you have here is a classic case of 'shyte Chinese fuse'. See how the terminal spade is as thin as the 'fuse blow' bridge? No mystery here, the fuse is very marginal if in fact capable of seeing 30 amps. I'd wager if you blow it intentionally, you won't see 25 amps. It simply overheats the thin area and over time melts the plastic, and heats all the surrounding contacts. Simply shyte, $0.0001 saved on materials x 5 billion pieces. Find a 30A fuse that doesn't have any thin areas besides the blow bridge. You'll probably have to order online, and they'll cost $5.00 each.