Champagne wishes...

[czakky]

But the ending is happy

[BigBlock]

Looks like tar.  But like czakky said we know your finished product will look great!!

[Scud]

But the ending is happy

 

 

 

 

 

So there she sits for another week while I will be away for work. But that gives me to time get some supplies. And I could use some advice, because this is first time I've put pistons in anything.

 

I'm going to get new base and head gaskets (one of each was damaged during removal). It looks like a good idea to replace all the O-rings around the long studs - between block and cylinder, and up top, at the head. I'll get new O-rings for the access plugs on the heads. 

 

Questions:  

1. One of the top studs came out with the special cap-nut (the one under the oil line). Any worry there - or just separate them and reinstall the stud?
2. How should I install the cylinders over the pistons?  Please treat me like I don't know anything about this, because I don't.  Tools... cleaning... assembly lube... what do I need to know?

[JesterGrin_1]

 

But the ending is happy

 

 

 

 

So there she sits for another week while I will be away for work. But that gives me to time get some supplies. And I could use some advice, because this is first time I've put pistons in anything.

 

I'm going to get new base and head gaskets (one of each was damaged during removal). It looks like a good idea to replace all the O-rings around the long studs - between block and cylinder, and up top, at the head. I'll get new O-rings for the access plugs on the heads. 

 

Questions:  

1. One of the top studs came out with the special cap-nut (the one under the oil line). Any worry there - or just separate them and reinstall the stud?
2. How should I install the cylinders over the pistons?  Please treat me like I don't know anything about this, because I don't.  Tools... cleaning... assembly lube... what do I need to know?

 

 I know that you are the type that gets excited and just jumps straight into something but at times it helps to ask a few pointers before doing so lol.

 

 Like lets say pulling the cylinders off. I would have slid the cylinders up just far enough to slide the pin through the piston and out of the connecting rod so that the ring orientation and piston orientation would not change in the cylinder but oh well lol. That is if the piston pins are free floating of which I do believe they are.

 

 So since you are there I am a little torn on how I would go but to be honest I would probably check the size of the cylinder bores to make sure they are not to worn and then if good get a new set of rings and by going by the instructions from the ring manufacturer put a fresh cross hatch hone on the cylinders. And when you reassemble just use a regular high detergent oil and of coarse for maybe 1000 miles no synthetics to let things wear in again.

 

I do fully agree in the use of all new gaskets since you are there but I would use a product called Gasgacinch Gasket Sealer http://gasgacinch.com/ as it is some great stuff and will greatly help to prevent leaks.

 

OOPS sorry forgot these lol. For the pistons putting the pistons back in it depends lol. But I have found it far easier to set the top of the cylinder down on a bench top and with the piston situated going in from the bottom just simply use your fingers to help compress each piston ring to slide into the cylinder. And just leave as the needed room to be able to push the piston pin back into the rod and reinstall the circlips. Make sure everything has a coat of oil. Not running off just a good film. Also when wiping out the cylinders and cleaning these items use a paper towel not cloth.

 

An Add On. If you do not wish to pull the pistons from the connecting rods then you can do the same thing as mentioned above by just sliding them back into the bores or you can borrow the correct size ring compressor from an auto parts store or even use a suitable size hose clamp around the piston and rings and just tighten the hose clamp just enough to enable you to slide the cylinder over the piston and rings.

 

As for the studs I would do as you said and just reinstall them correctly with some of that Gasgacinch on the threads going into the block to help prevent oil seep going by the threads. But I am sorry as I do not know if these studs require a certain torque when being installed. But I would think just a snug tight would be fine or for what I would call a 1 finger snug lol.

 

 

One more thing. BEAUTIFUL WORK.

[JesterGrin_1]

 Heck while you are there you could check the rod bearings and if there is no problems you could even replace them while you are there. You know just for grins. Whas this just a paint job or a rebuild.

[Scud]

Hmmm... this is going to be one of those "I should have read the instructions" moments.  

 

This was only supposed to be a paint job.

 

Motor only had 12,000 miles and I had not planned on taking it this far apart. But it was such a PITA to strip my Scura engine with the cylinders on... This was much easier for stripping and painting. I also thought about just raising the cylinder a little - but then one stud came out and one base gasket tore a chunk off when I lifted the cylinder. 

 

So - I should have disconnected the pistons from the rods and left them in the cylinders? That seems like it would be have been a good idea. Therefore - I suppose I should remove the pistons and install them in the cylinders?  

 

I have whole week to figure this out. Gotta fly tomorrow AM.

[JesterGrin_1]

Hmmm... this is going to be one of those "I should have read the instructions" moments.  

 

This was only supposed to be a paint job.

 

Motor only had 12,000 miles and I had not planned on taking it this far apart. But it was such a PITA to strip my Scura engine with the cylinders on... This was much easier for stripping and painting. I also thought about just raising the cylinder a little - but then one stud came out and one base gasket tore a chunk off when I lifter the cylinder. 

 

So - I should have disconnected the pistons from the rods and left them in the cylinders? That seems like it would be have been a good idea. Therefore - I suppose I should remove the pistons and install them in the cylinders?  

 

I have whole week to figure this out. Gotta fly tomorrow AM.

  Well that is up to you lol. You can leave them on the connecting rods and then try and hold the cylinder correctly and slid them over the pistons but I have found doing so to be a pain lol.

 

  So yes I would just slide the pin through one side to remove the piston and then reassemble them on a bench that way you can clean everything easier and put on the new gaskets and everything else and then just slide everything back together. Just make sure to keep the pistons oriented in the correct direction.

 

 I have just never removed pistons from cylinders without replacing the rings with a new hone on the cylinders to enable the new rings to seat.

 

 As now when you reassemble the pistons into the cylinders the rings will have to seat themselves into cylinders again. And since they have been previously worn in I am not positive of there life span or if they will seat correctly for a good ring seal. But I have heard of people reusing rings. I have just never taken the chance.

[swooshdave]

12k miles? Not sure I'd hone or put new rings in. 120k miles? Sure.

[Lucky Phil]

VHT Engine Case Primer and VHT Engine Case Satin Black

Thanks, will be interested to see how durable it is. I need some grey for the Daytona cases.

At 12,000 miles I'd do nothing but repalce the gaskets an O rings. Pull the pistons and install them in the cylinders with a piston ring compressor from the cylinder base. They are cheap and if you break a ring you'll need to buy a full set which isnt cheap. You need a ring compressor, everyone does, doesnt need to be an expensive one. 

 

Ciao

[Scud]

 

VHT Engine Case Primer and VHT Engine Case Satin Black

Thanks, will be interested to see how durable it is. I need some grey for the Daytona cases.

 

Ciao

 

 

It's holding up really well on my BMW transmission and driveline - and so far so good on the Scura. Note that the Engine Case paint is different than the Engine Enamel - I'm not sure how it's different, but the case paint says it's specifically for motorcycle engines.

 

I got a can of VHT's Engine Enamel in a color they call Nu-Cast Aluminum. I'm hoping that will be a good match for the cylinder heads.

[Chuck]

Scud.. you can do it either way. If you want to install the cylinder over the piston, you can slowly work it down by pushing each ring together with your fingers, or use a ring compressor like this.

The trick with these is to lube everything up well, tighten the compressor just enough to make the rings flush with the piston, and give the cylinder a good smack with your rubber hammer. The idea is for all of the rigs to go into the cylinder with that one swat. Being hesitant about it will (probably) leave the oil ring still out of the cylinder.

The old rule used to be if the rings came out of the cylinder, to glaze break it and install new rings. Not so much any more. I wouldn't bother at that low mileage..

[JRD]

Chuck- I was told that you should also check and or re-seat the valves when replacing the rings.  The increased compression with the new rings would cause the valve to seat contact area to wear faster.  What are your experiences, advice?

 

 

Jerry

[Lucky Phil]

Scud.. you can do it either way. If you want to install the cylinder over the piston, you can slowly work it down by pushing each ring together with your fingers, or use a ring compressor like this.

The trick with these is to lube everything up well, tighten the compressor just enough to make the rings flush with the piston, and give the cylinder a good smack with your rubber hammer. The idea is for all of the rigs to go into the cylinder with that one swat. Being hesitant about it will (probably) leave the oil ring still out of the cylinder.

The old rule used to be if the rings came out of the cylinder, to glaze break it and install new rings. Not so much any more. I wouldn't bother at that low mileage..

Hey Chuck, identical to the one I use most often. Ditto on the methodology.

 

Ciao

[Lucky Phil]

Chuck- I was told that you should also check and or re-seat the valves when replacing the rings.  The increased compression with the new rings would cause the valve to seat contact area to wear faster.  What are your experiences, advice?

 

 

Jerry

Well it's not a bad idea while you're there with the heads off to pull the valves and clean the carbon off the back and look at the sealing faces but thats just a "nice to do seeing I'm in here" thing. If the valves and seats are in decent shape then re lapping them wont be necessary. All you're doing is taking life out the seats and valve faces. So unless there is some sort of significant valve issue then no, the re ring wont affect the valves.

Chuck?

 

Ciao

[Chuck]

Chuck- I was told that you should also check and or re-seat the valves when replacing the rings.  The increased compression with the new rings would cause the valve to seat contact area to wear faster.  What are your experiences, advice?

 

 

Jerry

Well.. seeing as how you are there..  that statement has gotten a lot of people in trouble.. it only takes a few minutes to lap the valves in if necessary. 

Edit: I see we were typing at the same time, Phil, so let me say that if the valves aren't leaking, I wouldn't bother. You can turn them upside down, pour a little kerosene in the chamber and see if they leak.