Champagne wishes...

[Lucky Phil]

 

 

VHT Engine Case Primer and VHT Engine Case Satin Black

Thanks, will be interested to see how durable it is. I need some grey for the Daytona cases.

 

Ciao

 

 

It's holding up really well on my BMW transmission and driveline - and so far so good on the Scura. Note that the Engine Case paint is different than the Engine Enamel - I'm not sure how it's different, but the case paint says it's specifically for motorcycle engines.

 

I got a can of VHT's Engine Enamel in a color they call Nu-Cast Aluminum. I'm hoping that will be a good match for the cylinder heads.

 

Ah, very good thanks for the feedback.

 

Ciao

[Lucky Phil]

 

Chuck- I was told that you should also check and or re-seat the valves when replacing the rings.  The increased compression with the new rings would cause the valve to seat contact area to wear faster.  What are your experiences, advice?

 

 

Jerry

Well.. seeing as how you are there..  that statement has gotten a lot of people in trouble.. it only takes a few minutes to lap the valves in if necessary. 

Edit: I see we were typing at the same time, Phil, so let me say that if the valves aren't leaking, I wouldn't bother. You can turn them upside down, pour a little kerosene in the chamber and see if they leak.

 

Ha yes Chuck I stray off the subject some times and need to look at the post a few times and edit:)

 

Ciao

[Lucky Phil]

 

Chuck- I was told that you should also check and or re-seat the valves when replacing the rings.  The increased compression with the new rings would cause the valve to seat contact area to wear faster.  What are your experiences, advice?

 

 

Jerry

Well.. seeing as how you are there..  that statement has gotten a lot of people in trouble.. it only takes a few minutes to lap the valves in if necessary. 

Edit: I see we were typing at the same time, Phil, so let me say that if the valves aren't leaking, I wouldn't bother. You can turn them upside down, pour a little kerosene in the chamber and see if they leak.

 

It's interesting, things come back full circle. The original post about the valve work is probably from years ago when you used to "pull the heads" periodically to de coke the valves and pistons so when the re ring time came you would freshen up the heads as well. Those long gone days are now back again! I see a significant issue with the latest direct injection petrol engines is inlet valve carbon build up that requires mechanical cleaning methods.

The reason? no more port injection spraying fuel and its detergents onto the back of the inlet valves to keep them clean. PCV recirc air with a little oil vapour in it and no fuel wash builds up on the valves and causes poor performance and ecconomy and when it gets really bad hesitation and misfires.

To complicate matters you can't just use water injection or sea foam or the like to break it free because a lot of these engines are turbo and any broken free carbon going down the exhaust will take out the turbo turbine vanes.

 

Ciao  

[Scud]

Thanks guys. I ordered a ring compressor last night, but it was a sleeve type, not the one pictured.

 

I think I would feel better about tapping the pistons in from the bottom - seems like less risk of error. Then what - do I reconnect to the rods before sliding the cylinder all the way down - or do I do that from inside the crankcase? 

 

Won't be home till Friday - will take closeups then. I don't think I need to (nor do I want to) remove the valves.

[Lucky Phil]

Thanks guys. I ordered a ring compressor last night, but it was a sleeve type, not the one pictured.

 

I think I would feel better about tapping the pistons in from the bottom - seems like less risk of error. Then what - do I reconnect to the rods before sliding the cylinder all the way down - or do I do that from inside the crankcase? 

 

Won't be home till Friday - will take closeups then. I don't think I need to (nor do I want to) remove the valves.

Install the piston into the cylinder leaving the piston pin accessable and install the cylinder on the studs and slide it down until you can slip the pin through the piston and rod and fit the clip. Job done.

 

Ciao

[JesterGrin_1]

 

Thanks guys. I ordered a ring compressor last night, but it was a sleeve type, not the one pictured.

 

I think I would feel better about tapping the pistons in from the bottom - seems like less risk of error. Then what - do I reconnect to the rods before sliding the cylinder all the way down - or do I do that from inside the crankcase? 

 

Won't be home till Friday - will take closeups then. I don't think I need to (nor do I want to) remove the valves.

Install the piston into the cylinder leaving the piston pin accessable and install the cylinder on the studs and slide it down until you can slip the pin through the piston and rod and fit the clip. Jobe done.

 

Ciao

 

 Yeppers there you go.

[68C]

It is normal to fit motorcycle pistons through the bottom of the barrel as there is a machined taper at the bottom of the barrel to help the rings slide in.

[Chuck]

The sleeve type won't work unless you have the piston off the rod. 

[bbolesaz]

Stuff the case hole with paper towels before trying to place the circlip on the piston. DAMHIK.  I have the ring compressor pictured and I mount the piston first, then slide the cylinder over the studs and piston.  I don't use a hammer, a little oil on the rings will let it slide on nice and easy.  Key is to keep the cylinder and piston aligned while mating.

[Scud]

Thanks again. I ordered one of the "pictured" compressors so I would have the option of leaving the pistons on the rods. Ironically, I ordered it on Amazon - and my hotel in Seattle looked out directly on Amazon world headquarters. Too bad no time to visit Moto International - maybe next time.

 

 

 

 

 

So... here's the paint on the heads, which was part of the motivation for removing them (to repaint). Has anybody repainted the heads? The fins are really deep and I don't think I will be able to get good paint coverage.  It difficult to coat even the shallower fins on the engine block and timing cover.  I like Knumbnutz's engine with that special blasting - but I assume that means removing the valves, which I'd really prefer not to do.

 

It would be a moral failure to install a flaky-paint head between that candy-apple cover and a fresh, black, block.  Any advice appreciated.

[swooshdave]

I think you know the answer, and you don't like it.

[Lucky Phil]

 

Thanks again. I ordered one of the "pictured" compressors so I would have the option of leaving the pistons on the rods. Ironically, I ordered it on Amazon - and my hotel in Seattle looked out directly on Amazon world headquarters. Too bad no time to visit Moto International - maybe next time.

 

 

 

 

So... here's the paint on the heads, which was part of the motivation for removing them (to repaint). Has anybody repainted the heads? The fins are really deep and I don't think I will be able to get good paint coverage.  It difficult to coat even the shallower fins on the engine block and timing cover.  I like Knumbnutz's engine with that special blasting - but I assume that means removing the valves, which I'd really prefer not to do.

 

It would be a moral failure to install a flaky-paint head between that candy-apple cover and a fresh, black, block.  Any advice appreciated.

 

 I wonder if powder coating would work, you'll get the coverage but dont know about the heat tollerance around the exhaust port. Cylinders should be fine.

 

Ciao 

[Tom M]

I repainted my heads when I had them off about five years ago.  I used some kind of high heat spray paint from the auto parts store.  Probably VHT but I can't be sure.  They're holding up just fine.

[Scud]

I think you know the answer, and you don't like it.

 

Probably some truth to that. But I was hoping to hear something like this....

 

I repainted my heads when I had them off about five years ago.  I used some kind of high heat spray paint from the auto parts store.  Probably VHT but I can't be sure.  They're holding up just fine.

 

So Tom, do you recall if you stripped the old paint off, followed by prime and paint - or did you just rough 'em up and apply a fresh color coat?

 

I was thinking about the rough-and-color approach.

[Tom M]

I didn't strip the old paint Scud.  I just cleaned it and lightly sanded the fins where the factory paint was peeling.