Champagne wishes...

[swooshdave]

 

 

Each pump sat with fuel in it for a several hours. I can try the pumps again (maybe with non-flammable diesel this time).

 

Do you know how to test the pressure regulator without fuel? Like, can I use air pressure somehow? (I haven't found anything yet by searching). 

I've never tried it, but I'll bet you could rig up some sort of hillbilly thing with air pressure and a gauge to see where it blows off? There's gotta be *some* reason for 2 pumps going tits up. 

I did this to set the pressure on the aero engine pressure relief valve..

 

 

 

Thanks Chuck - It occurred to me to try the Champagne tank on the Greenie, since I also wanted to see if the manual petcock (Greenie has electric) cures the Greenie's fuel starvation issue. 

 

 

I'm playing Dr. Frankenstien today...

 

 

I can't wait to get my bodywork off and give it a good clean. Going to wait until I have all the paperwork in order.

[Scud]

Two whole weeks with no wrenching... what's a guy to do?

 

Update on the fuel pump. I got a new one, the same aftermarket unit that MG Cycle sells. But nothing happened... took it off and connected it directly to a battery... and just a click, no pumping. So after seeing two pumps leak, I had a faulty new one. Remembering what Marty said about seals being restored after soaking, I tried the old pumps on the battery. viola... they work and they don't leak anymore. So... I put the less-used of the two pumps in. But that makes me a little nervous. I don't like the idea of something that previously leaked gas. No disrespect to Marty... but I'd feel better with a second opinion, and I don't mind getting another pump if that's the right thing to do.

 

So, after all that fuel-pump fussing she fired right up and the oil light went out almost immediately. First breath she's taken in several years. But... she's a bit noisy. Here's a video. Does anybody recognize this sound?

 

http://vid1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_6149.mp4

 

[MartyNZ]

.... Remembering what Marty said about seals being restored after soaking, I tried the old pumps on the battery. viola... they work and they don't leak anymore. So... I put the less-used of the two pumps in. But that makes me a little nervous. I don't like the idea of something that previously leaked gas. No disrespect to Marty...

I know how you feel. A fire under the tank would be bad. Roasted nuts? 

I would make sure that the wiring connections are tight so no sparks could cause a problem, then keep a close eye on the pump to make sure that the leaks really have stopped. I haven't pulled a pump apart to check, but I expect the seals are directional and internal fuel pressure will improve sealing.

I believe that if it doesn't leak now, it will stay fuel tight for the rest of the summer.  If it leaks again the following spring after another period being dry and idle, the chances of recovering again are lower. 

 

As for that engine noise, could valve clearance on a cylinder be set off TDC?

[czakky]

Doesn't sound like knocking. Mine has always made more noise on the right side. Not sure if it's that loud but it's hard to tell from the video.

 

No advice on the fuel pump if you're stumped I'd have been stumped a long time already....

[Chuck]

Sounds like a loose valve adjustment. I'm sure you have them adjusted properly, so I dunno..

[Scud]

I'm "sure" I set the valves correctly too, but I've been "sure" about lots of stuff that turned out to be wrong. I'll check the valve adjustments again. The motor had sat for about 2 years. Maybe a lifter was a little sticky when I did the adjustment and running it a bit has loosened it up... stay tuned.

 

And to keep life interesting, the smoke alarms went off in my house at about 5:30 this morning. Of course, I imagined a burning garage... but it looks like maybe I just need to replace all the 9V batteries in the smoke detectors.

[Scud]

I checked the valves and they were tighter than I wanted them but within acceptable ranges. I loosened them slightly to .008" Intake and .010" Exhaust. 

 

Still have a knocking sound - much louder and more metallic than other engines.

 

There was some clean oil in each head, but it was only a little - the inside of the valve covers were still clean and dry. I only ran it for a few seconds in the garage - and I did not ride it.

 

I started wondering if I put the pistons in backwards, but I am certain that the side of the piston with the indent is aligned to the intake valve. It idles very smoothly, just a bad metallic knocking.

[MartyNZ]

Does this topic help?

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19627

[Scud]

Does this topic help?

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19627

 

Thanks. I hope that topic doesn't help. That turned into a total engine rebuild. But the noise in his video and subsequent descriptions are similar to what I hear. The sound definitely keeps pace with the RPMs.

 

I started this engine before I removed it from the wrecked bike. But one of the headers was both badly bent and punctured so it sounded horrible. I might not have picked up on a more subtle noise at that time. There was no metal in the oil when I originally drained it - so I assumed I had a good, complete engine. And did I mention it idles really well... and I really want to ride it...

 

What to do next?  I could put an external oil pressure gauge on so I have more info than just light on/light off. If pressure is too low, I can shut it down.  If pressure is good, I could let it warm up to operating temperature and see what happens.  Any risk in that?

[Tinus89]

Does this topic help?

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19627

 

Ha, that was my topic!

Your sound is completely different from mine Scud. It might not sound like that on the video, but it really is.

The sound does not sound very good. I would not suspect a low oil pressure to be the cause....

What I would check (if valve clearance really is correct):

 

- Pushrod ends for being loose (easy to get to)

- Valve guide play (radial play on valve stems)

- Valve springs for breaks

- Play in rockers on shaft (are the springs in good condition?)

[Chuck]

 

- Play in rockers on shaft (are the springs in good condition?)

 

Ace Mallot told me about using radial bearings instead of springs on the shaft. He said you should see how the shaft bounces back and forth when the engine is running. No doubt it's kinda messy to do that.  FWIW, the Kid did that to his Spot. I dunno if that is your problem or not.. just bouncing it off you.

[Scud]

Thanks guys, I'll pop the covers off again in a few hours. For your consideration, here is how I adjust the valves:

1. Covers off, plugs out.
2. Rear wheel off ground - transmission in 6th.
3. Turn rear wheel in direction of travel while watching rocker arms.
4. After intake closes, get piston to top (verify by touching piston crown through plug hole and easily spinning both pushrods)
5. Adjust valves till feeler gauge has light friction and next size up won't go in. (.08" In and .10" Ex)

The valve action seemed normal to me while doing the above on two occasions.

 

Since the engine sat for a while and I did not disassemble everything, some parts probably have no oil residue remaining. I am suspicious of the lifters. After removing the covers last night there was only a small amount of fresh oil in each head. I think the lifters rely on run-off down the tubes for lubrication. Is that right? And if so, should I pour a little oil down each pushrod?

 

Of course, I will inspect all the other stuff as suggested while I'm in there.

 

Interesting idea to run it with the covers off... probably won't be too messy.  The covers were totally dry inside last night (after less than a minute of total run-time.)

[Chuck]

FWIW, when I am putting an engine together, I have a squirt bottle of STP/synthetic 20-50 mix that I liberally squirt on rotating parts. I use assembly lube on all the high load things like cam/lifter/pushrod/rockers. I've always set big blocks at .006 and .008, though. The Mighty Scura with titanium pushrods runs .002 and .003.

[czakky]

I've always run .006/.008". I wouldn't think .002" would make much of a difference. But, out of curiosity why that loose Scud?

[Scud]

I found some RaceCo specs at those tolerances and Meinolf seems also to get good results with looser settings. As I understand it (and I'm open to being corrected) loose settings are also good for extreme heat and I do sometimes venture off into deserts and mountains in the summer.

 

So here's the fun news... she moved under her own power today for the first time in several years. Shifted smoothly up and down through all 6 gears - but I only lugged it up and down the street at low RPMs. Idles and purrs along very nicely at low RPMs.

 

 

 

So... it seems we almost have a motorcycle... and would you look at that red stiletto? Without any nasty silver clutter around it to distract from it's shapeliness...

 

It's still clacky, especially on the right. I checked all the stuff that Tinus and Chuck suggested and did not see any problems. The valves were still at the clearances I had set. So I poured some oil in the pushrod area and squirted it around everything else in the heads that still looked dry. Started it - still noisy. Set the valves to .006 In and .008 Ex. Started again and here is the video. It shows the LH for a couple seconds then goes to the RH, which seems to be where the noise is coming from.

 

http://vid1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_6152.mp4

 

I think it's a little quieter than before, but I still don't like the noise. I must say it was fun seeing it run with the covers off. That alone was worth the effort.