Zinc chromate

[docc]

Does anti seize count as "grease" when using stainless to aluminum?

 

 

 

Does anti seize count as "grease" when using stainless to aluminum?

Yes, l think so. Anything that keeps water out would be helpful. Especially if there is enough around the head to ooze out as you tighten the bolt.

 

Agreed. For a long while, I believed copper anti-seize enhanced electrical conductivity (copper, right?), but gstallons set me straight on this: it's petroleum based grease (like "Vaseline®" or common petroleum jelly). Di-electric grease is, apparently, silicon based and an entirely different animal.

 

Sometime in the next couple weeks I'll get my fasteners out and see how the threads are looking. If I don't hear about one more special chemical or accoutrements to make this The Most Complicated Valve Adjustment Ever. 

[docc]

So, if I'm reading this chart right, I should get-me some beryllium fasteners and the "world will be, once again, spinning on greased grooves."

 

Thanks to MartyNZ for this great link!   http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19689&p=215297

[docc]

Also, I see from this that it is the aluminum alloy (block, or heads, or timing chest castings) that become the anode and are degraded (corroded) by the electrolysis. Doubly un-good!

[Scud]

Also, I see from this that it is the aluminum alloy (block, or heads, or timing chest castings) that become the anode and are degraded (corroded) by the electrolysis. Doubly un-good!

 

This makes me think about the supplemental ground that many of us have run from the voltage regulator to the engine block. I wonder if it would be better to ground the regulator to the steel spine frame instead?

 

Sorry for straying off-topic.

[JesterGrin_1]

 

Also, I see from this that it is the aluminum alloy (block, or heads, or timing chest castings) that become the anode and are degraded (corroded) by the electrolysis. Doubly un-good!

 

This makes me think about the supplemental ground that many of us have run from the voltage regulator to the engine block. I wonder if it would be better to ground the regulator to the steel spine frame instead?

 

Sorry for straying off-topic.

 

 Yes it would. Steel is usually better. Or is that More Better.

[JesterGrin_1]

Does anti seize count as "grease" when using stainless to aluminum?

 I would like to say one thing about Antiseize. Use it sparingly as it will migrate. I would also check fasteners when using this product a few times to make sure they are tight. I tend to use LocTite. As there are many grades available that will not only help with corrosion but also help maintain torque.

 

 For head studs I like that copper stuff that comes in a can which helps keep down migration of oils by the threads.

 

 When putting these types of crank cases together and to help maintain correct bearing crush I like Gasgacinch.

 

[docc]

Sorry for straying off-topic.

 

There is a topic?

 

Nothing "off-topic" so far.  Whew, I'm just trying to prep for a decent 100,000 mile tune-up!

 

Planning to groom all of my grounds on the next "Tank Off" session. (regulator to timing chest/ timing chest to spine frame etc . . .)

[Chuck]

Uhh, we *might* be overthinking this..

[JesterGrin_1]

Uhh, we *might* be overthinking this..

 If a person that currently builds airplanes says we might be overthinking this then we are probably overthinking this into the stratosphere lol. Simply because as we all know it is the very nature of a airplane builder to overthink things to start with.

[docc]

 

Uhh, we *might* be overthinking this..

 If a person that currently builds airplanes says we might be overthinking this then we are probably overthinking this into the stratosphere lol. Simply because as we all know it is the very nature of a airplane builder to overthink things to start with.

 

Haha! Ya think?

 

It's great stuff, though. I've learned a ton from this discussion.

 

The absurdly complex restoration of the alternator cover is simply emblematic of the lengths men will go to in order to keep their hands busy and their minds off of less pleasant matters.

 

Now for a study of beryllium fasteners  .  .  . 

[docc]

Well, now, since no one has sent me links to absurdly expensive beryllium fasteners from some Space Program supplier, I'll just have to move on . . .

 

The Agulia badges came today, and they may be the tightest 3D prints I have seen. Now, to decide whether to paint their background silver or make them zinc chromate. The lovely Gambalunga logo (in honor of Luciano Marabese) will be left red.

 

To match my true-and-proper early RedFrame . . .

Courtesy of sp838: http://www.shapeways.com/product/ABDSPQG9A/gambalunga-badges-both-no-steel

[Scud]

The absurdly complex restoration of the alternator cover is simply enigmatic.

 

 

There.  I fixed it for ya.

 

As for emblematic... and your emblems...  Where are they going? Or did you get all 4? Silver with red bird would probably look good on the ZC cover. That would probably look good on the triple clamp and the porkchops too.

[Lucky Phil]

So, if I'm reading this chart right, I should get-me some beryllium fasteners and the "world will be, once again, spinning on greased grooves."

 

Thanks to MartyNZ for this great link!   http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19689&p=215297

 

One thing to mention about  Berylium for those interested is that its highly carcinogenic in its powder form so dont go cutting it and breathing in the dust.Berylium copper valve seats require special precautions when cutting/ machining for example.

Ciao

[Chuck]

3D printing is amazing. We're at about the same stage as when the first Commodore 64 and Ataris came out. It'll be interesting to see where it leads.  

[twhitaker]

True that! I remember going to a machine tool show in Chicago some 20 years ago. A company was marketing a 3D printer that worked by cutting sheets of paper, adding glue, and layering it upon the previously cut layer to make the model.