Rubber Mount, coils/ECU/instruments

[Tom M]

Hi Doc,

My bike had the ECU mounted upside-down like the one in your picture when I bought it (used).  A few years later it had problems due to broken etches on the ECU PC board around the connector.  I did a test with some clay and discovered that the seat was flexing and hitting the ECU connector which eventually damaged it. 

 

If your ECU is still mounted like that I suggest that you flip it over.

[docc]

Hi Doc,

My bike had the ECU mounted upside-down like the one in your picture when I bought it (used).  A few years later it had problems due to broken etches on the ECU PC board around the connector.  I did a test with some clay and discovered that the seat was flexing and hitting the ECU connector which eventually damaged it. 

 

If your ECU is still mounted like that I suggest that you flip it over.

That's good advice. I had relieved my original seat, but am using a replacement now and not sure about contact with the connector, so maybe it's time to do this. I left it connector up for year so I could back probe the computer to set the TPS, but with the Caspers Breakout Harness, that is no longer necessary!

 

Are the rubber mounting spacers still used in the inverted (upverted?) position?

[Tom M]

 

Are the rubber mounting spacers still used in the inverted (upverted?) position?

 

 

Yes the rubber mounts are still needed.

[docc]

 

 

Are the rubber mounting spacers still used in the inverted (upverted?) position?

 

 

Yes the rubber mounts are still needed.

 

Tarbaby stuff!  I had to remove the ECU again to get to the wire I left off and, of course, two more mounts separate.

 

As iI recall, these are the same mounting blocks for the coils? And for the instruments? I keep using adhesives to put them back together, but I'm sure they're past their "use by" date. Someone had sourced replacements (maybe from McMaster-Carr?) . . . anyone recall the source?

 

(closest I could find/ "Metric, cylindical to 713 kgf): http://vibrationmounts.com/Store.asp?Page=Products1.htm )

[Antiquar]

mgcycle carries silent blocks. I've used these replace the old broken ones on my coils. I don't recall if they are the same used on the ECU,

 

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=276&products_id=1469

[docc]

Thanks, Aniquar! Those certainly look like the ones. Am I correct that these are the same isolators for the coils, instruments, and ECU?

 

I'm putting this discussion, started by Tom M, in its own thread and adding the MGCycle link to the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist.

 

Well done, guys!

[Tom M]

I bought some of those anti-vibe mounts from McMaster Carr.  I don't have the exact part number handy but they were "style 2" M6 from this page:

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/#vibration-damping-sandwich-mounts/=152hf3h

 

FWIW in the past I got some M6 well nuts and rubber edging for my LeMans fairing, along with wheel bearings and a grease gun fitting for the front Ujoint from them too.  They're a great vendor.

[Chuck]

McMaster Carr motorcycle and airplane supply. 

FWIW, being a cheap Guzzista, I've had pretty good luck with cleaning those things up well with a wire wheel, solvent, and super gluing them together. After it's cleaned and glue applied, putting pressure on it in a machinists vise until the glue cures is the ticket.

[Scud]

Similar to Chuck, but with fewer tools - I just sanded the contact surfaces, used Seal-All as adhesive and let them dry with light pressure from a C-clamp. My sidestand bumper has been holding for 2 years after that treatment.

[docc]

I never seem to have any fresh "Super-Glue" (cyanoacrylate) and recall there is a urethane "Super-Glue" product perfect for this application. I have tried toluene based contact adhesive (ie: GOOP or Shoe-Goo) with marginal results. Today, I used fast setting 2-part epoxy, but it set my repair behind a couple hours.  (It would be nice to have a few spares on hand).

 

What kind of adhesive is "Seal-All?"

 

McMaster-Carr lists seven different M6 Vibration-damping sandwich mounts. This size looks the closest to the ECU mounts:

 

  M6 31 0.07" 4.5 0.06" 5/8" 5/8" 1/2" 3/16" 9232K13 2.17 9241K43 2.17

                                                                         ^                          ^

But, whether to go                               "natural rubber"   or   "Urethane?"

[Scud]

 

What kind of adhesive is "Seal-All?"

 

 

I say: it's the cheap and sticky kind. No reason to buy new vibration dampers.

 

 

The Marketing Department Says:

 

Seal-All is the adhesive mechanics and hobbyists trust for all their automotive and garage repairs. It adheres with superior strength to most substrates and resists gasoline, oil, paint thinner and most solvents. 

 

• Fast dry time – set in 2-3 minutes 

• E-Z flow formula 

• Gas & oil resistant 

• Waterproof – bond remains secure even when exposed to water 

• Abrasion resistant 

• Temperature resistant – remains tough even in extreme temperatures

[docc]

FWIW, the Guzzi parts .pdf I have lists three different numbers for the (silent) blocks to mount the ECU (93221315),   coil bracket (93222020), and instrument bracket (93222021).

 

I can see the ECU blocks are much smaller than the coil blocks.

[Chuck]

"Sets in 2-3 minutes." Gotta get me some of that! Auto parts store? Hardware store?

Uhh, salesmen have a license to lie.  Just sayin. I don't personally think much of it. I buy super glue in little one shot applicators. I've never had any luck with super glue after it's been opened a while.

[MartyNZ]

I buy super glue in little one shot applicators. I've never had any luck with super glue after it's been opened a while.

That stuff has a shelf life of about a year, but only weeks if you open it. It cures on exposure to moisture in the air, so lasts longer if you can store it airtight with desiccant, or in the freezer. One shot applicators are a good idea, but I still find myself throwing away three tubes of a five pack just when I want some.