Supplemental Voltage Regulator Ground

[Chuck]

Uhh, you *do* have the supplementary ground wire, yes?

[docc]

Uhh, you *do* have the supplementary ground wire, yes?

Truly. That and servicing the battery terminals and the main ground connection to the right rear of the gearbox.

 

This one:

[footgoose]

not that it matters I suppose, but I wonder if the "really bright" moments are how it's supposed to be, and the rest of the "less bright" time is when the problem is occurring.

[bbolesaz]

Considered that, but the "less bright" is the normal condition and if it was low voltage, I would have drained the battery long ago.  A ride with the voltmeter will clear the issue.  And no, AFAIK there is no supplemental ground (yet).

[docc]

Letting the loom find creative ground paths is not a good formula.

 

Friends don't let their V11 take up smoking . . .

[bbolesaz]

Where does one splice the supplemental ground wire at the regulator?  Just do a strip and tap as close to the unit as you can?  Any pixxies?

[docc]

• No strip and splice. Make up a length of 14 gauge with rings on each end. Run from the regulator case to the timing chest. Clean all well and apply Vaseline®

Gimme a minute on the pix

[docc]

You can see the terminus of the regulator case ground bottom center in this image on the timing chest (I have a frame ground there also):

[Chuck]

As Nike used to say, Just do it. It's a known issue..

[docc]

Here's a peek at the main ground behind the seat latch. Also a known issue. Don;t neglect it!

Full size image available in this post:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18217&p=193510

 

We used to be able to count on Kiwi_Roy to post this image to remind us what happens if the V11 has to find its own ground paths:

 

(sorry, czakky! )

[czakky]

Waa, waaaaah...

 

Only YOU can prevent V11 fires.

 

(In my best smokey the bear)

[coreytrevor]

I hadn't seen it mentioned so I wanted to add that the newer(2003+)? bikes with the new style, possibly Japanese regulator, there is no need or benefit to grounding the regulator case.

 

There is no continuity between the case and the regulator ground wires, so it seems, like Japanese systems and lots of others, that the regulator case was never meant to be part of the circuit.

 

On another related note, has anyone tried one of these voltage monitors? They look really cool. Tiny enough to fit about anywhere, auto dimming, really inexpensive too, about 20 bucks. I think I will order a few. Maybe I will put it in the steering head nut hole.

 

http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php

[footgoose]

I hadn't seen it mentioned so I wanted to add that the newer(2003+)? bikes with the new style, possibly Japanese regulator, there is no need or benefit to grounding the regulator case.

 

There is no continuity between the case and the regulator ground wires, so it seems, like Japanese systems and lots of others, that the regulator case was never meant to be part of the circuit.

 

On another related note, has anyone tried one of these voltage monitors? They look really cool. Tiny enough to fit about anywhere, auto dimming, really inexpensive too, about 20 bucks. I think I will order a few. Maybe I will put it in the steering head nut hole.

 

http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php

 

 

This is cool! Just hook it to the battery and watch it?

[coreytrevor]

You should be able to use any hot wire that doesn't have a big load on it. I would want it switched by the ignition.

[coreytrevor]

You should be able to use any hot wire that doesn't have a big load on it. I would want it switched by the ignition.

 

The circuit that powers the gauge lights, city light, taillight and license light looks good, not too much load on it. It goes through 2 fuses and the ignition switch and about a mile of wiring so you would have to check the voltage drop. I will post a thread on the install when the thing shows up from the UK.

 

Edit: I realized that some of the non-US V11s might have a switch for the headlights and running lights. In that case you would have to tap into the circuit before the switch.