Knights design footpeg and Shift linkage

[Colorobo]

So I installed The Knights design foot pegs and need to adjust the shifter linkage. Is the arm on the selector shaft splined. so I can just rotate it down or adjust the linkage. thanks Rob

 

[thumper]

I would adjust the linkage, moving on the spline may cause it to hit some where on the case.

[docc]

Got some photos, there, buddy?

 

There are several known factors important to the external shift mechanism . . .

[gstallons]

The sad fact about the rod ends and threaded rod is , they are both r.h. thread . You will need to buy a l.h. rod end and threaded rod to accept this.

 You can then adjust to fit your needs.

[Scud]

The sad fact about the rod ends and threaded rod is , they are both r.h. thread . You will need to buy a l.h. rod end and threaded rod to accept this.

 You can then adjust to fit your needs.

 

But if you disconnect one end, you can adjust the total length and reassemble.

 

From what I understand, the shift linkage works best when it at 90 degrees to the levers. If you take the lever off the transmission input shaft and move it a tooth or two, you will change the angles. When I got my LeMans, the PO had lower pegs and had made moved the trans lever a few teeth (and made lots of linkage adjustments. It shifted well - but I've since put it all back to stock.

[gstallons]

You can but , it takes a LOT of time do do this .

[gstallons]

Yes , all levers work best @ 90 degrees . 90 degrees at rest or 90 degrees applied ?

[Scud]

For a shift linkage, which has to apply forces in both directions, I think 90 degrees at rest is the target. When the linkage moves forward, for a downshift, the front angle (at transmission input) decreases and the rear angle (at the arm on the foot lever) decreases. It's opposite for an upshift.

 

But the 90 degrees is an ideal - and as already mentioned, there are other factors to consider, such as not hitting cases, frame, and porkchops.  

 

The first time I tried adjusting the length of one of these, I was really surprised to find that it could not be lengthened or shortened while installed. LH and RH threads would have made adjustment easier/faster.

[gstallons]

I extended my shift linkage and modified my linkage rod as I mentioned in other posts.

 No problems .

[gstallons]

I discussed this (lever, linkage efficiency)  last year with this older mechanic about brake levers on drum brake mechanisms . He told me , the best brake effort is when the  pulled brake lever is at 90 degrees when fully applied . 

 I do not know how much is helped or hurt when shift linkage is lengthened / shortened ? 6 mm of length will make a BIG difference of lever position .

[docc]

I can see that, mechanically, applying maximum leverage on a drum brake at the engagement point is ideal.

 

Yet, as Scud points out, this mechanism has to balance its action between upshift and downshift. The 90º positions (at rest) should be the best compromise.

[gstallons]

I am gonna have to look at my bike's linkage before I blab any more .

[docc]

Really looking forward to seeing what you find!

 

With all the Chook-made LookyPhil Shift-binkies out there now, the whole "90º" thinking may have to be re-thought!

[Scud]

The magic extender increases the leverage, and decreases the amount of foot travel required to initiate a shift. That's part of why it feels more crisp. It doesn't materially change the angles.

[JesterGrin_1]

 There is an option I think as I have seen a thread where someone actually made a shifter that would work right off of the transmission output shaft with no linkage needed. Sorry it was the wrong link lol.

 

 I know nothing about it but some information would be GRAND.