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Posted

I had a no start once with my new omrons too. Popped off the seat and saw a couple relays had wiggled up.

The worst part being it was after work and a bunch of us were leaving together. Some of my co-workers are big HD fanboys and not understanding of the guzzi experience. They missed the part when I got her started in short order....

Glad it was something simple.

Posted

 

 

 

The best examination of the benefits of silicon dielectric grease is here:  https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm&ved=0ahUKEwjWxZrynPfRAhXGo5QKHUD7Ac0QFggYMAA&usg=AFQjCNHwibqeA9xoggY2S8AvFyuRQxLNQQ This guy explains the relative merits of insulating grease, "conductive" grease, and vaseline in a better way than I could. Sure he has an electronics perspective, but connector corrosion is the same for them. 

 

 

I'd like to read that, but the link gives me a "page not found" error.

 

Sorry, post edited with a link that works.

https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm&ved=0ahUKEwjWxZrynPfRAhXGo5QKHUD7Ac0QFggYMAA&usg=AFQjCNHwibqeA9xoggY2S8AvFyuRQxLNQQ

There is a lot to wade through in this post, and you will probably want to skip past the heat sink tests, but he offers a thorough analysis of his subject.

 

 

 

Here's Wayne's explanation with links, too.. :whistle:

http://hogmountain.homenet.org/Dielectric_grease.htm

Thanks for posting on this topic. There has been a lot of discussion and opinion on this in the past. I'm looking forward to learning more about it. :thumbsup:

 

I use to promote the use of "Copper Antiseize Thread Lubricant" (VersaChem), thinking the copper would enhance conductivity. gstallons set me straight on this years ago: no, its a grease and doesn't conduct. :blush:

 

Then, I discovered the older it gets, the harder the "copper" component becomes. It just turns into a nasty, solidified mess that's hard to clean up. I still use it on threads, but not on electrical connections anymore.

 

@Scud: Great news on the relay success!! :luigi::drink:

Posted

I much prefer visiting the elves than exorcising the gremlins...

 

IMG_5795.jpg

 

On the dielectric grease issue - everyone's got to make their own decision when there is a topic with so much conflicting information and knowledgeable people holding opinions on both sides. I've decided that dielectric grease, such as DC4 is fine to use in electrical connections - not only fine, but preferred.

 

I have been persuaded by:

  • Well-researched arguments like the one Marty posted
  • Use in many industries, including aviation
  • My own experience

This reminds me of another controversial topic where I was persuaded by data. A lot of people say it's OK to use WD-40 to clean brake calipers. Docc and GStallons warned me about it and encouraged me to soak a caliper seal in WD-40 to see what happened. I did and it swelled by 40% - which would undoubtedly freeze a piston. No more WD-40 near my brakes.

  • Like 3
Posted

"persuaded by data" brings me back to, "Use the very best 5-pin relays in every position and make sure they are making good contact."

 

I would have thought Scud's Relay#1 was "livin' easy" :rasta: , but maybe not? :wacko:

  • Like 1
Posted

I would have thought Scud's Relay#1 was "livin' easy" :rasta: , but maybe not? :wacko:

 

Nothing is easy if the contact is poor.

 

Posted

For the no start isue:

 

I had the same thing. The problem with many of the later models is that the relay powering the starter solenoid gets it's current al the way through the ignition switch, causing too much resistence.

 

What you ll have to do is add a new extra relay. It's easy. Once I did the vollowing the problem was gone.

 

Use the wire from point 87 of the starter relay (originaly feedling the starter) to feed 86 of e new relay, 85 of the new relay goes to ground.

 

Now take a good wire from the battery to 30 of the new relay and and put the wire going to the starter (earlier cut from 87 of the old relay) to 87 of the new relay.

 

Now the starter sollenoid is fed only going through 1 relay.

Posted

I have done this to repair problems with a low voltage feed to the stater solenoid or starter relay on all kinds of equipment .  I have done this to keep the current off of the switches on headlamps too .

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