Multiple oils leaks thread with a twist

[Midle Age Warrior]

A small advance in my leaking problems, since I have very limited resources at the moment I am working on my V11 as a side project slow but steady.

Look what I found in my gearbox to frame attachment ears

 

[Midle Age Warrior]

I used some powder and tip the gearbox overnight and found this

 

[Midle Age Warrior]

I already looked into the archives and found some threads about cracked  gearboxes. My plan of attach is a deep clean and some heavy duty epoxy  compound because is in the top of the gearbox crankcase.

I also assume the failure become for over tight the frame bolt that hold the gearbox, in that case a spacer between the ears should help to prevent this happening again.

I would like to hear yours comments.

Regarding the engine oil leak behind the clutch I am pretty is not breather hose related, my next step is pulling the clutch assembly out, I am planning to fabricated a clutch tool the archives reveals that the bolt size is 12x1.5 mm but apparently some one mess with this before and I am have to rectified the crankshaft threads, I already have the bolt but could somebody help me with the diameter of the cylinder that Stein Dinse offerfor this task.

 

 

Thanks in advance

[gstallons]

Whew.. I would think about using a rotary burr and digging out some of this first. I don't know how others repaired their problem . If you do put a washer / spacer in place you want a select fit so this won't happen again .

[Midle Age Warrior]

Whew.. I would think about using a rotary burr and digging out some of this first. I don't know how others repaired their problem . If you do put a washer / spacer in place you want a select fit so this won't happen again .

Clean, deep and deburr the crack then epoxi it. I will add a spacer between the ears so the pressure applied by  the holdig bolt do not crack it again

[Scud]

As for the clutch tool, I don't think the diameter is as important as getting the teeth in the clutch plates aligned. I use this tool from MG Cycle. The three points that go into the teeth are the key.

 

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=2618

 

I'd offer to loan it, but I think I'm going to need to use it soon.

[Midle Age Warrior]

As for the clutch tool, I don't think the diameter is as important as getting the teeth in the clutch plates aligned. I use this tool from MG Cycle. The three points that go into the teeth are the key.

 

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=2618

 

I'd offer to loan it, but I think I'm going to need to use it soon.

Brother thanks for the offer but the shipping will kill us    but the pic of the MGcycle help a lot 

 

Thanks

[gstallons]

Please get / make some washers from shim stock where you have VERY little clearance when reassembling this

[Chuck]

 

I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but this looks to me like the transmission case is completely cracked through. In *my* opinion, the only way to fix this is to take a die grinder and rotary burr, grind most of the area out, and TIG weld it. The problem is this: The welder will more than likely want to put the case in an oven to preheat it. That, of course, means a complete tear down. The secondary problem is... warpage. Once repaired, will the bearing bores, etc. still be in alignment? That is a definite *maybe.. Maybe not.*

I think you are looking at a new case. Of course you should get a second opinion..

[emry]

Another alternative is zinc brazing. While some base material grinding is required it does work quite well in an area like this. It is a common procedure in the sail boat industry. I wouldn't even try epoxy, in an area that is stressed it will pull off and fail again, you will never get it to bond correctly, then any other repair is that much more difficult. Silicone would work as well. TIG would be the best but is also the most expensive and labor intensive. 

 

As others have said, some shims should be used. 

[Lucky Phil]

 

I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but this looks to me like the transmission case is completely cracked through. In *my* opinion, the only way to fix this is to take a die grinder and rotary burr, grind most of the area out, and TIG weld it. The problem is this: The welder will more than likely want to put the case in an oven to preheat it. That, of course, means a complete tear down. The secondary problem is... warpage. Once repaired, will the bearing bores, etc. still be in alignment? That is a definite *maybe.. Maybe not.*

I think you are looking at a new case. Of course you should get a second opinion..

I agree with the chase out the crack and TIG it option and also the heat it up to reduce the distortion which I believe wont be a major issue ( the selector cover face may need some "fettling" with a flat file though). Dont even consider the epoxy/JB weld option. I would also fit the optional extra gearbox mount as mentioned here a few months ago just for insurance.

 

Ciao 

[Midle Age Warrior]

Thank guys for your comments, when I found the origin of the leak I said to me "finally I already now were the oil comes from and the complete disassembled of the bike is now justify" I was a little exited and did not realized at the moment the proportions of the damage due to the structural implications, the first time I saw the crack I thought welding was the last choice because of the need of the complete tear down and the possible warpage of the matting surfaces like the side cover, but now after read what you post I take a deeper look of the gearbox and have to admit how bad it is.

I will look for a capable welder and evaluate the possibilities TIG or new case.

Now the question is why this happened and how avoid to occur again vibration, over torque of the holding bolt, bad design?

 

Thanks guys the saga continues, will back to you after my meeting with the welder and then we will see if I need a new case.

 

Roberto

 

[gstallons]

You should not warp the case with this weld job. He should weld , stop , weld , stop until it is finished. f you try to fix or weld up a large area you might warp something .

[Kiwi_Roy]

To empty out the gearbox is not such a difficult job and I'm sure you have lots of fine welders with the difficulty of importing spares.