clutch slave

[docc]

I emailed Grimeca for support; sent dimensions, specifications, images.

[docc]

No response from Grimeca in two weeks. Someone else may want to contact them?

[Speedfrog]

After reading through all of 12 pages of this thread, I found myself left hanging with nothing to retain from all this search and no conclusion to the problem that started it.

Was a viable solution ever found to replace or rebuild the now NLA clutch slave cylinder?

What was causing the clutch to remain dis-engaged and how was it remedied?

I’m sure there might be a sequel (or two) to this somewhere... @docc ?

Ps: not trying to solve a current problem, only inquiring mind wondering. 

 

[docc]

58 minutes ago, Speedfrog said:

After reading through all of 12 pages of this thread, I found myself left hanging with nothing to retain from all this search and no conclusion to the problem that started it.

Was a viable solution ever found to replace or rebuild the now NLA clutch slave cylinder?

What was causing the clutch to remain dis-engaged and how was it remedied?

I’m sure there might be a sequel (or two) to this somewhere... @docc ?

Ps: not trying to solve a current problem, only inquiring mind wondering. 

 

Well, I don't know if anyone ever discovered a source for a replacement Grimeca clutch slave cylinder for our V11, or a rebuild kit/seals, either . . .

I see my clutch failure showed up on Page 3. No, it wasn't the slave cylinder. The "safety washer" had failed on the gearbox input hub and the hub was spinning off, and back onto, the input shaft. At times, this would foul the clutch disengagement, then it would spin in and the problem would disappear. Then return.

Short story, here (that contains a link to the "Sticking Clutch" thread):

 

[Speedfrog]

Thanks @docc , did you end up re-installing the original slave with its seals or a spare one?

[docc]

5 minutes ago, Speedfrog said:

Thanks @docc , did you end up re-installing the original slave with its seals or a spare one?

I have a used replacement a member here provided. Unfortunately, it came from a parts bike that had corrosion issues and I struggled to get the Zerk to seal. All good, now: 6 years; 28,000 miles/ 45.000 km

[OldButNotDead]

A few months ago - after 20 years and about 21,000 mi - I lost the clutch on my 2003 V11 Naked. No power to the rear wheel with bike in gear and the lever fully released. I wasn't particularly surprised, since clutch engagement had been uneven and grabby earlier in the season, and finding neutral with a hot engine has been difficult the past couple years.

After spending more than a little quality time reading this and other clutch threads, I realized that my limited time, space, and skills weren't up to this task. Given the increasing challenges associated with maintaining this old bike, I considered selling it for parts, but then contacted the good people at Cadre Cycle, who agreed to take it on. Enzo suggested the clutch slave cylinder was at fault, and Tim found a potential seal from an auto application, so I decided to chance a repair. They swapped out the swingarm bearings while it was off, so glad to have that done.

I've not had much opportunity to test it, but got out for a short ride last week, and it was well-behaved. We've got cold and snow already, so I won't know more until next season, but at least there will be hope during the cold dark winter that when hibernation ends, I'll have a V11 to ride.

Doc's clutch tribulations and the rally to assist with spare slaves inspired me, so I ordered a couple of seals (Dorman D351783) to aid the cause. Doc, if you'd like a couple seals that *might* fit your spares, shoot me a PM and I'll send them along.
 

[docc]

These seals are to restore the Grimeca clutch slave cylinder?

Any links to those for our archives?

[OldButNotDead]

I believe so - my clutch slave has never been serviced, so if you say it came with a Grimeca, then this kit includes a seal that fits the 30mm piston.  It's flat and measures something like 3.5 x 3.5 mm.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-14242-d351783.aspx

[po18guy]

If you get any air in the line, like trouble with disengagement or a dragging clutch, I installed a bleeder banjo bolt on the clutch master - the highest point in the system. Then bled it from both ends. Been fine ever since.

[OldButNotDead]

Will need to consider this if I run the reservoir dry while bleeding. Not hard to do.

[docc]

The two actual things that affected my clutch over all this time (so far) . . .

And, twice, the spring internal to the clutch master cylinder has busted itself in quadrants . . .

[pete roper]

Both V11's and CARC bikes are murder on their clutch fluid. I have no idea why for sure but looking at the broken spring in your pic I'd think water intrusion has to be part of it.

Bottom line is that it is vital that the fluid be changed on a yearly/10,000km basis if problems wish to be avoided. On the CARC series bikes this is a breeze because the slave cylinder has a remote breather on the end of a hose under the seat. With the V11's of course you have the stupid nipple on the slave cylinder itself! The obvious answer to this is to make up a hose for the bleed side with a nipple on the end and run it up under the seat like the later bikes thus rendering the pain in the arse bleed a non issue!

[OldButNotDead]

Brilliant! I wonder if a variant of this general approach could keep my 87yo dear-old-Dad from peeing all over the floor vs in the toilet?

Doc - were there characteristic symptoms when the clutch master cylinder spring let go?  I'm not convinced my issues are resolved, so will file all these suggestions away for future reference.

 

[docc]

34 minutes ago, OldButNotDead said:

Brilliant! I wonder if a variant of this general approach could keep my 87yo dear-old-Dad from peeing all over the floor vs in the toilet?

Doc - were there characteristic symptoms when the clutch master cylinder spring let go?  I'm not convinced my issues are resolved, so will file all these suggestions away for future reference.

 

Absolutely. The lever travel ("freeplay") increases bringing the lever close and closer to the handgrip to actuate the clutch. In simplest terms, a gap opens up between the lever and the actuating rod (the spring, otherwise, keeps these surfaces in contact).

Initially, this can be addressed changing the adjustable lever position. Then, the engagement screw can be turn in closer the actuating rod of the master cylinder.

Neither of these actions are the solution, but are an indication the spring has broken.