ring & pinion gears

[andy york]

Had a small weeping (annoying) rear diff leak.

pull it all apart, fixed it. 

What the pictures show me is that the deterioration has not gotten any worse.

Granted, I found this wit about 30k on the bike. Had it all Micropolished, and still going strong.

[andy york]

maybe now

[andy york]

have to look close to see it. been that way for about 90k.

never find any material in the oil when I change it. 

I'll keep on riding .

andy

[Lucky Phil]

The problem is Andy with gear face wear that bad the issue will be a fatigue crack in one of the teeth that will eventually break off. For safety reasons I'd rather not be the one riding it when that happens.

 

Ciao

[andy york]

I honestly think it left the factory that way.I may have been a little vague. I first noticed this,oh ,say, 2003...

when I had my first weeping of the rear drive. Upon disassembly,that is what I discovered. And that was probably 

80 to 90 k ago. 

no metal or swarf in lube....ever.

I did reset the gear depth a bit back then.

Not trying to push my luck, I just always find it amazing how "bad" something can be mechanically and still function 

andy

[Lucky Phil]

I honestly think it left the factory that way.I may have been a little vague. I first noticed this,oh ,say, 2003...

when I had my first weeping of the rear drive. Upon disassembly,that is what I discovered. And that was probably 

80 to 90 k ago. 

no metal or swarf in lube....ever.

I did reset the gear depth a bit back then.

Not trying to push my luck, I just always find it amazing how "bad" something can be mechanically and still function 

andy

Wow that is amazing. Always good to know what you can "get away with".

 

Ciao

[andy york]

And I really was not trying to be cynical about it. I will be the first in line to say something doesn't look right 

  or should not be done. I will say that 14 years ago I did not have an extra grand laying around to buy a 

  new ring and pinion set. I also never thought of breaking a tooth off. 

 

andy

[Midle Age Warrior]

Andy perfect timing for me to ask

I am in the process of dealing with a few oil leaks, one of them comes from the pinion shaft (the brown one in the pic you posted).

Could you tell me how do you take it out ?, the workshop manual tells to undo the ring nut then the pinion nut but I can see no way to take the ring nut with the pinion nut still in place.

I should say I do not have the special tools so I have to manage myself and found an alternative way.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Roberto

[andy york]

Hi Roberto,

 No special tools required. Just a socket to fit the nut and a long cheater bar.

If yours is anything like mine, I have to loosen the nut while the diff is still mounted on the bike.

I have never gotten mine loose with air gun. It just batters the gears against each other.

I will have to look up the torque spec,but as I recall it is very high when compared to most things 

on the bike........this is my unfortunate disassembly process...

1 - remove rear wheel 

2 - remove rear diff and disassemble rear portion of driveshaft and remove completely

3 - reinstall rear diff and rear wheel 

4 - socket on nut w/long persuader bar ratchet handle( i use an old fork tube) 

    bike needs to be on ground and maybe a 2nd person to apply rear brake

    while you try and loosen nut.

5 - disassemble again-fix leak-reassemble in reverse order

best of luck.

It really is not hard to do but sometimes you think you need godzilla to that nut loose

andy

[andy york]

Sorry   I just read your post again.

clean the inside threads where the ring nut is. clean real good. possibly also blow out with air.

You should be able to take a pin punch and tap the ring nut loose. might take a few hard hits to get it moving 

then it should come off with your fingers.

Then the big nut comes off with the above procedure.

andy

[Midle Age Warrior]

Thanks Andy for your response

I already disassembled the bike so I will manage my self to undo the nut but in the meanwhile when I start to undo the ring nut it moves until some point but not further and the pinion stop to turn also if I try to move it,

Everything is clean no dirt or gunk in the ring nut threads, apparently the seal is moving out with the ring nut and get stuck with the nut.

I can apply more force but better ask before broke something

Thanks

 

Roberto

[andy york]

I' will try and get some pictures up within a day 

[PeterT]

Does anyone have any knowledge or experience of changing the overall gear ratio on a 2005V11, perhaps by changing the ring and pinion gears?  I am considering whether it would be desirable to gear the bike up just a small amount to reduce cruising revs and perhaps increase top speed as on the German Autobahn it seemed to be capable of more speed if the revs didn't get above 7.5k.  Any thoughts?

[stewgnu]

Buy a tuono

[GuzziMoto]

Does anyone have any knowledge or experience of changing the overall gear ratio on a 2005V11, perhaps by changing the ring and pinion gears?  I am considering whether it would be desirable to gear the bike up just a small amount to reduce cruising revs and perhaps increase top speed as on the German Autobahn it seemed to be capable of more speed if the revs didn't get above 7.5k.  Any thoughts?

You could try to fit a gear set from a different model, like a Cali, but I can't imagine it would make a difference for the better. You could reduce rpms at a given speed by gearing up at the rear, but the trade off would be slower to accelerate and likely the same top speed or slightly less top speed. If the V11 was pulling all the way to redline in top gear you could get more top speed out of it by gearing. But it doesn't pull like that stock. So, unless your V11 is considerably better than stock I doubt you would get more speed out of it with gearing. All you could do is lower the rpms at any given speed, along with making it slower if you gear it taller.

Something to remember about gearing is your final drive gear ratio is actually multiplying the power output of the engine / transmission before it gets to the rear tire. A taller gear ratio is a lower gear ratio number. That means the power at the rear tire is reduced with a taller gear ratio.

 

If you are racing, it is very useful to gear for specific tracks. You want to be able to pull max rpm at the fastest parts of any given track. That is how you balance acceleration and top speed at a given track. Guzzi racers would have a few gear ratios to chose from by using gear sets from different versions of the same basic Guzzi. But by and large Guzzi racers never seemed to worry about gearing as much as everyone else. For example, we would often change the rear gearing on our Ducati's once or twice during a race weekend. But I don't think I ever saw guys racing Guzzi's change their gearing at the track.That may in part be because of how much work it was, but they also did not seem as worried about it. They tended to pick their gear ratio before they arrived at the track and from then on they left it as is and rode it with what they had.

Additionally, I proved to myself that it is better to have gearing that is too short than gearing that is too tall. You loose more time on a race track with gearing that is too tall than you do with gearing that is too short. I once F'd up and had gearing on my FZR 400 that meant that the top of 6th gear was about what it had been at the top of 5th gear. That meant I was hitting redline in 6th before the start finish line and had to cruise down the rest of the straight at part throttle to keep it from banging into the rev limiter (which would actually make it even slower). Despite that issue down the straight, I set my fastest laps up until then on that bike with that gearing. I learned that I had previously been running gearing that was too tall. And I learned that gearing is power.

Sorry, I seemed to have drifted a little....