czakky Posted February 18, 2017 Posted February 18, 2017 After getting her all back together this winter we've got some nice weather today. Dry tank, added about 3/4 of a gallon primed the fuel pump about three times. Crank crank crank, nothing. Starter is working I can hear her trying to fire so I'm pretty sure she's got spark. I look over her a few times notice that I forgot to tighten a hose clamp and am leaking fuel by the right injector try to crank again after tightening said clamp. She's not going and I've depleted the battery. Charge her up after a couple hours and try again. Cranking and firing I could even run her with throttle like 1/8 open but, if I give her gas she just dies immediately. There is a small exhaust leak and I can see black smoke coming out pretty good. I guess I'm wondering if it sounds like I'm running rich? Did I flood her trying to crank for so long? How long would it take to dry out the combustion chamber?
thumper Posted February 18, 2017 Posted February 18, 2017 Put in new plugs, they may be fouled, same thing just happened to me. 2
Scud Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 Two ideas: 1 - 3/4 of a gallon is about the unusable quantity remaining in the tank when you run out of gas. The pump will push that 3/4 gallon to the right side of the tank through the pressure regulator - but it draws fuel from the left. Put in another gallon and try again. 2 - if that and fresh plugs don't work, then check every connection that you had apart. Maybe something electrical didn't click-in all the way. 1
czakky Posted February 19, 2017 Author Posted February 19, 2017 Sorry I meant to say that I did add atleast another gallon after I saw the leak. I'm gonna check/replace plugs tomorrow. Guess I don't think about a fuel injected bike fouling plugs but seems very plausible.
Scud Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 So the order is: 3/4 gallon - no start, but slight ignition detected. Fix fuel leak and add another gallon of gas. Charge battery. Starts and idles, but dies with more throttle. If #4 was only one or two tries, you may still have some air in the fuel lines. It will take a little while to purge all the air. You can't go wrong with new plugs, but I'd be curious to know if it runs normally tomorrow after you let it idle for a little while. If so, that could mean you still had some air in the fuel lines today.
czakky Posted February 19, 2017 Author Posted February 19, 2017 I suppose the pump could have been dead heading, but when it did sort of run there was a good amount of black smoke. I've drained the system before and can't remember it taking so long to push fuel through, I could be wrong though. I'll try again tomorrow... patience not one of my virtues.
docc Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 The tank traps about 3/4 US gallon on the right side. It will run briefly while it returns fuel to the right side *fuel trap* . . . Try simply more fuel?
czakky Posted February 19, 2017 Author Posted February 19, 2017 Oh yeah, I did try adding more fuel.... check my post a couple up.
docc Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 Oh yeah, I did try adding more fuel.... check my post a couple up. Ah -gotcha. looking for the simple stuff . . .
MartyNZ Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 You can prove that the pump is priming properly by releasing the fuel hose to the pressure regulator, and holding the hose over a can while you switch on the ignition. You should see a small amount come out each time you turn on the ignition. I recall about 50cc on my bike. OSH Warning: this procedure could set fire to your bike if you do anything really dumb..
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 I wonder if the TPS is working, just measure the Voltage to chassis and make sure it's ramping up to about 4.5 Volts with the throttle opening.\, do this with the key On but not running. Another thing I would do is make sure relay 5 is turning On and staying on while cranking. (is the fuel pump and coils powered up? Is the timing sensor getting pulses) A test light connected from the 87 pin of relay 5 to chassis should stay On as long as the motor is turning but will go Off when it stalls and the timing sensor is not getting pulses. It's probably not electrical, but that's the easiest to eliminate.
czakky Posted February 19, 2017 Author Posted February 19, 2017 TPS checks out, as does the pin on relay 5. Fresh plugs and while I was at it checked valves. Tried her again it was the same thing.... On the positive side I got to use K. Roy's patented "go winky" light! Once she cools down I will check fuel pressure and go over all my connections. Although I was able to check the inputs on the injectors and the coils already.... I did fit new gauges, not sure that effects anything.
Lucky Phil Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 Are you aware that every time you cycle the ignition and the pump runs to prime the system it also squirts a shot of fuel down the inlets? If you're cycling the ignition to prime the system you will almost certainy flood it. If you have flooded it you may well have ruined the Platinum plugs if thats what you are using. Ciao
czakky Posted February 21, 2017 Author Posted February 21, 2017 Definitely aware of the injector priming itself. I only cycled a few times to push some fuel through my dry system since I had replaced most fuel lines, fuel filter and cleaned the injectors. I don't think that would have flooded it but possibly cracking the throttle a little exuberantly a few times might have. Again letting her sit overnight should be ample time to clear that though? I didn't try starting her today but I did go through K Roy's brilliant ECU test points and everything seems to check out. That should prove my wiring is kosher, right? Anyway the only things I've got left to check are fuel pressure and I was going to reload Meinolf's map just to be sure her brains didn't get scrambled somehow. After that I'm running out of ideas.
gstallons Posted February 21, 2017 Posted February 21, 2017 If I plug noid lights into the fuel injector connectors , turn the ignition switch into the run position , these noid lights will light up for a period of time ?
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