docc Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 We're missing something here. I seem to recall that there are two sensors with similar connectors that can be cross connected . . .
czakky Posted February 22, 2017 Author Posted February 22, 2017 The fuel injectors, the input on the coils.... Can't think of any others... I guess the diagnostic and the TPS, but there nowhere near each other.
Scud Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 But when it was running the exhaust felt its usual powerful self. ...but, what if I somehow crossed up the input wires on the coils(R to L, L to R)? Would it even run? Ok... it starts and idles, right? If yes, then I don't see how wires can be crossed. And it dies when you give it throttle? I'm getting toward the edge of what I know here... but can you connect a voltmeter to your TPS and see if the voltage increases gradually as you roll the throttle open? If there's a dead spot on your TPS could it be telling the ECU that the throttle is closed?
Lucky Phil Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 Here's another basic one, I dont know how far you had this thing apart but you havent put a rag or something in the inlet whilst in bits? Ciao OMG, I once left paper towels in the intake manifold of an old Cadillac V-8. It started and died, started and died. Then it shot the whole wad out the tail pipe and ran perfectly. Had a Ducati 996 Corse on the dyno after a rebuild for the upcoming Phillip Island round of WSB one year and it seemed to be running a little raggard on the first start then it shot something out the exhaust and cleared itself and was all good. Went looking and found a piece of chewed up smoldering rag outside. Like the one you use in the inlets to stop FOD with the airbox lid off.Oh dear..... Ciao
czakky Posted February 22, 2017 Author Posted February 22, 2017 Ok just to re-iterate what she's doing. Starts with a good amount of cranking and some throttle. Throttle held open partially she runs and purrs like a kitten albeit around 2k. Give her a bit of throttle she responds really well (when warmish) then it dies immediately when let off the throttle. Doesn't idle down revs don't "hang" just plain dies. Usually with a super loud backfire. I have checked the TPS a couple times. I never did watch it that carefully but that is a certain possibility for me to look at. Checked coils, everything is good there. Re cleaned and triple checked my wiring, all good. There was a tiny piece of dirt on the timing harness. I've got to charge up my battery now before I can try her again. So, Lucky Phil. 996 Corse eh? WSB? Are you like Troy Bayliss' mechanic? Had to ask. Feel free to ignore. Ha!
Lucky Phil Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 So, Lucky Phil. 996 Corse eh? WSB? Are you like Troy Bayliss' mechanic? Had to ask. Feel free to ignore. Ha! No, local wild card rider that year, Mal Campbell, ex Aussie Superbike champion, ex WSB rider and gentlman. Ciao 1
docc Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 What's the status of the Throttle Body balance and idle air screw positions?
czakky Posted February 22, 2017 Author Posted February 22, 2017 I haven't changed the TPS since last year when she was running sweet. Closed I'm at 157mv at idle I'm 488mv. Idle air screws are closed per Meinolf's instructions. I was balanced perfectly. Here's a quick list of things I've done this winter related to electric/running: New plug wires Cleaned groomed greased electric connections New air box with clean k&n filter New used gauges and associated harness from 01 sport Cleaned fuel injectors Replaced fuel lines fuel filter O-ring for timing sensor New Stucchi x-over
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 Is it possible to cross the connectors to the injectors? It would probably still run but might - I dunno Did you set the timing sensor gap to allow for the new "O" ring It's not possible to see fuel returning from the pressure regulator but if you pull the fuel line off the petcock and dip it in a tin of gas it should suck it empty in a few seconds proving the fuel must be returning to tank. http://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf The link is broken to this manual, it's getting harder and harder to find, we need it on this site Docc? Here's what the manual says about the pump Delivery: 26.5 gal/hour at 44 psi with 12V power supply. The pump draws about 4.5 amps. If you put the wires on backwards the pump will run backwards, who knows if it will pump properly - -check the polarity Measure the current draw, take out relay 5 and put an ammeter between 30 and 87, the pump will run with the key Off. With no power to the ECU only the pump will draw current, anything different from 4.5 Amps might point to it running backwards or over pressure, from memory it draws about 9 Amps when it's relieving at 70 psi.
MartyNZ Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 It is possible to cross connect the injector plugs and the plugs to the ignition coils. It's hard to imagine the engine running with the ignition cable crossed, but I expect that it is possible for the engine to run (badly) with the plugs on the injectors crossed. I remember seeing "SX" printed on the sleeve of the LH injector cable in small white lettering on my bike, but nothing on the RH cable. Left and right = sinistra e destra.
stewgnu Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 Did you replace the ht caps? Have you tried re-fitting the old ht leads?
czakky Posted February 22, 2017 Author Posted February 22, 2017 I did pull the line off the regulator and it gave me about 1/2-2/3 of a cup when it primed. I've never measured the timing gap and have replaced this o-ring before. If things get desperate I'll measure it. I'll have to check if I've got a meter that measures DC amps. I removed the pump wires one at a time am pretty sure polarity is correct. I did check my coils and verified they are correct. Btw Carl's wiring diagram has the coils labeled backwards. I will verify my injector wires also. HT caps? Plug caps/wires? Yes they are new I will try the old ones. Thanks again guys for all the help. 70f again today some decent rains cleaned up the roads too. This is killing me...
bbolesaz Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 Backfire always makes me think timing issue. Do V11's have a peephole to put a timing light on the flywheel? That timing sensor should be a hall sensor and a resistance measure may not mean much.
Scud Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 New used gauges and associated harness from 01 sport There were a lot of changes from 2001-2003 with the 2002's being the "transition" year. I can't imagine that the gauges are the problem, but are there important differences in the wiring harness? Did you replace the whole front section of the harness?
czakky Posted February 22, 2017 Author Posted February 22, 2017 I've replaced the o-ring on my timing sensor atleast three times now (don't ask) the wire (cable) going into the sensor has seen better days. I think I found a cheap replacement from an Alfa Romeo. Think I'm going to order this for the heck of it. http://m.ebay.com/itm/151457753481 As far as I can tell Scud it was plug and play but yes it is the whole front harness. Mostly lighting and the tach coil. The two harness' looked identical.
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