Wiring harness improvement/replacement

[docc]

My first attempt at a synopsis of wiring/ electrical changes on my 2000 V11 Sport:

> Lowered the battery basket to relieve pressure from the seat.

> Replaced the electric petcock with a manual petcock; later using the connector for a troubleshooting Go_Winkie.

> Installed junction blocks for both the positive and negative connections in order to remove the terminal stack from the battery terminals and make room for:

> Fused accessory circuit for heated jacket or charging.

> Fused power for Garmin ZUMO GPS mount.

> Dedicated positive circuits for the horns and headlights (horns fused, headlights on circuit breaker) to four separate relays (one OMRON each in the headlight bucket for the hi/lo beams and one Bosch alongside the right of the spine frame for each FIAMM horn ).

> Grounded the headlights and horns back the the frame brackets for the fuel pump using *star* washers.

> Ground from the regulator case to the frame.

> Ground strap from the frame to the timing chest.

> Ground from the regulator to the timing chest.

> Routinely service and maintain the main negative battery cable to the gearbox ground behind the seat lock.

> Made three attempts to use an external fuse holder for the 30amp charging fuse before soldering in a 30 amp circuit breaker.

> Added auxiliary LED taillight/brake light/turn signals.

> Consistently and repeatedly, clean, crimp, and seal every and all connectors.

> Currently on my 6th generation of relays (never had a relay failure). [OMRON High Current Relays]

[Kiwi_Roy]

Horn Relays as per Docc is a great idea.

I was really impressed by the Fiaam horns that came with my California II, I couldn't find the exact ones but I found a pair of Fiaam Freeway Blasters, a Hi and Lo tone ~$35 from Canadian tire stores, they are super loud if you use the relay supplied and a decent wire from the battery.

Some Guzzis eg the EV come with a horn relay but the tiny wires strangle the horns.

Make sure you mount them so they are self draining,

[sp838]

I am going to throw this in, partly out of self interest: how about deleting the sidestand switch and relay? Seems like it would be a good thing to do while the harness is off. I'm thinking of doing it myself. Already removed the switch and twisted the wires to it together. But that relay takes up room and the wiring to it is unnecessary complication. I want it gone!

[brlawson]

I looked at the Ghezzi-Brian website for more into.  What a worthless fountain of dis-information.  So, may i ask -

I assume the speed is digital in the LCD desplay?

Do they provide the speed sensor or is that purchased seperatly from somewhere else?

It mentions fuel level, I assume that is actually the fuel light?

It looks like they gave you a stock dash harness that you have to connect to the digital dash, yes?

 

Can't help on the harness Q, I'm a noob here.

My only $0.02 would be to solder all of the connections, no crimps.

 

The specs for the meter can be found on the Koso website. http://kosonorthamerica.com/shop/motorcycle-mx/rx-2n/

 

The dash comes with a reed switch setup with a universal bracket for mounting to the front wheel area. As I mentioned there is an additional part that you can purchase that threads onto the end of your speedo cable to provide signal which is the way I chose to go. http://kosonorthamerica.com/shop/motorcycle-mx/speed-signal-converter-c-white-jst-connecter/

 

And yes, they did provide a harness with properly color coded wires to adapt to the meter. They also provide a bracket that allows you to install in the same manner as the stock setup.

 

 

The question of crimp verses soldering I figured on using epoxy lined shrink tube with a soldered joint. It's used primarily in marine application and the adhesive nature of the shrink tube provides a proper seal from the elements and strain relief for the joint so it should minimize the affects of vibration.. 

 

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=7739

 

A horn relay will definitely be a priority but since I will be using an LED headlight I might be ok on the headlight relay.

[Chuck]

 

The question of crimp verses soldering I figured on using epoxy lined shrink tube with a soldered joint. It's used primarily in marine application and the adhesive nature of the shrink tube provides a proper seal from the elements and strain relief for the joint so it should minimize the affects of vibration..

Those are really good..

[sp838]

VERY excited to watch this thread develop by the way. I posted a while back about re-wiring the V11 "from scratch", possibly to include an M-Unit, but I was discouraged and didn't pursue it.

[sp838]

Horn Relays as per Docc is a great idea.

 

How much current do the stock horns draw?

[Kiwi_Roy]

I'm guessing the horns draw about 5 amps but that's not the issue you need a low impedance source to really make the horns respond. It's like a speaker after all.

The EV comes with a horn relay as standard , makes sort of a squeak but wiring my own relay made the horns twice as loud, sort of like a Startus Interuptus fix for the horns.

 

Try it with a length of wire from the battery, you will see what sort of improvement you get, decide then if it's worth while.

The pair of Fiaams come with a relay.

[Kiwi_Roy]

SP838

           Yes, if you short out the side-stand contacts you have also shorted out the relay contacts 30 - 87 the relay is completely useless, does nothing, perhaps re-purpose it as a horn relay, use some decent size wire on the contacts though, tiny is ok from the button to coil.

It should be called the Neutral relay, it's operated by the neutral switch (called the Idle switch on some schematics) not the stand switch.

I have always been a bit hesitant to modify the loom because how do you document the changes for the next owner, he inherits a bike with no schematic and tears his hair out.

Make a photocopy of the comic and attach it to the manual.

[docc]

It should be called the Neutral relay, it's operated by the neutral switch (called the Idle switch on some schematics) not the stand switch.

+1: the "Neutral Relay"

[docc]

Being guilty of always looking for the simple solutions, I'm carrying two High Current OMRON relays to solve all of brlawson's woes.

 

Come'n get 'em. buddy! (My Sport's laid up with odometeritis and speedometer St. Vitus Dance )

[Kiwi_Roy]

I can see a pair of 3-1/4" Speedhuts on the horizon.

Save some money and get a pulse input speedo

Eagles on the front, reset button at the back

I'll make you a pulser.

[docc]

Thanks for the offer, Kiwi_Roy! I figured going with the GPS and have that in the works. Actually looking forward to capping off that rattly staub at the gearbox.

[brlawson]

I have finally received a few add on components for the harness from a company I have done business with several times in the past to improve Guzzi wiring deficiencies:  http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html

 

As was recommended I got a headlight relay:

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html

 

Unfortunately, they stopped making the horn relay kit but he had all the components.

 

I also will be incorporating a 3 circuit add on to support the additional relayed circuits and a few addition items like heated gear, GPS/Phone charging. This will eliminate the dreaded terminal stack on the battery.

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3CS-Sealed/3cs-sealed.html

 

 

The one thing I could use a bit more info on is the 30amp circuit that supports the alternator. Mine was totally bypassed and I see that Docc has taken his to a new level with marine grade breakers. Is this mostly due to the constant draw by the headlight that keeps wiring/connectors and the like hot all the time? Would an LED headlight minimize this issue or is the harness itself just too deficient to support this? Since I am incorporating a headlight relay circuit would this also remove additional strain?

 

Single circuit kits are also available if this is a better way to go.

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/Wiring_Kits/wiring_kits.html

[docc]

Well, done, brlawson! Can't wait to see all this come together (I'm still holding your two high current relays hostage/Come alone. Bring cash. No cops. )

 

In short, no, the 30 amp fuse circuit is about charging and will not be relieved by the alternate headlamp circuit. I'm digging my aircraft grade circuit breaker. Will it last? Who knows, but it sure is kewl.