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Posted

Most vehicles ( I use this term loosely ) show a build / production date 00/00 or 00/0000 . The fist characters distinguish the mo .The remaining characters distinguish the year. This may or may not be the year model. It is at least a reference point. 

 Most automobiles start producing the next model yr around Aug. or Sept.  I am sure motorcycles use this same "rule" . This is a rule , not a law . Look at the VIN plate on your car or truck . It is the easiest to inspect and you will get familiar with this.

Posted

I'll ask about the date.

 

Now I need to start thinking about what to pack for the trip. I'm only taking my backpack so space will be limited. Very limited. I need to pack enough to stay warm, but also have enough space to store gear if it gets warm.

 

So considering it's an unknown bike (to me), what should I take with me? The owner said he never did anything with the relays so those are an unknown. I think I have some Bosch relays laying around I could take.

 

Most important thing I'm taking? AAA card.

 

I have a small tool kit but I don't know how much of it would make it past the TSA. Do they allow zip ties on a plane?

 

Other suggestions?

Posted

Here's a fix-it-on-the-road packing list thread that might interest you:  http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18860

 

You can carry tools under a certain length on the plane - best to check the current TSA rules. But you can also check a small bag - or ship your tools in advance to the current owner's home.

Posted

Is the tool kit complete? Not the best but in a pinch. Ball headed 5mm Allen wrench is an important one, fuses, relays as mentioned.

Posted

I would not take a V11 any distance without putting OMRON G8HE in all the slots. They're cheap, readily available and address three of the most significant fail points on the Gen I V11.

 

A few simple voltage tests before departing would be telling (after taking a 10mm  to the battery terminals to snug them up).

Posted

I would not take a V11 any distance without putting OMRON G8HE in all the slots. They're cheap, readily available and address three of the most significant fail points on the Gen I V11.

 

A few simple voltage tests before departing would be telling (after taking a 10mm  to the battery terminals to snug them up).

 

I'll pack my multimeter. Any specific voltage tests you recommend?

 

I'll stay Thursday night at my friend's place and have a chance to go over the bike and check electrical connections and the like. Also try to get a little acquainted with where things are... like the seat release...

 

Is there an owners manual I can download? Let me guess, go check the FAQ section? Yeah, I'm headed there next.

Posted

if you're really worried, go to the auto parts store and get a matching 5 prong relay as a spare.  If you have electrical issues, play musical chairs with the spare relay (some are 4 prong relays but the sockets are all 5, so it will fit).

Posted

Musical relay chairs while live-blogging on the forum.

 

Tell me you wouldn't pay to see that?

 

:grin:

Posted

Seriously guys, if you keep using 10 amp relays (NC) where you need 12.5 amps and 20 amp relays (NO) where you need 22.5 amps (continuous), you'll continue to be disappointed.

 

Usually at awkward times.  :blush:  Jus' sayin' . . .  

 

See:  G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605

 

 

Re: voltages:

1) key off after 6 hours minimum - 12.65-12.84vDC  (85-100%) would be ideal. Less than 12.65, I would charge the battery appropriately before riding.

2) key on/ lights on 2-3 minutes  -  11.5-12.0 v (over 12.0 would be a good sign!)

3) cranking                                       >10v minimum

4) idling                                            > 12.84 would be nice, but at least 12.5v (discharging a little at idle)

5) at *some* rpm (2500-4000)          Ideally? 14.2 vDC

 

[i would also look at tire date codes and be certain tire pressures are addressed. Early Sports were delivered with super-soft Pirelli Dragon Corsa spec'd at 33/37 psi. That's really soft for a 550 lb bike!  35/40 has worked a lot better for me.]

Posted

My Triumph was a similar weight and tire pressure.

Posted

My Triumph was a similar weight and tire pressure.

The V11 is *probably* a bit more "rear weight biased."  Springs might be kinda soft if you weigh more than 165 pounds in your race leathers . . .

 

Might want to back the steering damper all the way off before you get out on the freeways passing trucks . . .

Posted

Maybe I was "soft-pedalling" that a bit . . .

 

If I were going to fly-and-ride a 16 year old V11, I would install a pocket-full of G8HE OMRON, tighten the battery terminals, check the voltages, and service the tires. And back the little Bitubo steering damper all the way off.

 

If the tires have *old* build dates (pushing ten years old), and the ride was more than couple hundred miles, I would consider having a set of fresh tires mounted locally before heading out.

Posted

Maybe I was "soft-pedalling" that a bit . . .

 

If I were going to fly-and-ride a 16 year old V11, I would install a pocket-full of G8HE OMRON, tighten the battery terminals, check the voltages, and service the tires. And back the little Bitubo steering damper all the way off.

 

If the tires have *old* build dates (pushing ten years old), and the ride was more than couple hundred miles, I would consider having a set of fresh tires mounted locally before heading out.

Rear tire is fresh. Front tire looks good, although I'll replace it when I get home.

 

I've been reading here that the steering damper, when old, can cause more problems than benefits. What's the best sign of a worn damper? I can always yank it off if it's causing trouble.

 

If I don't get the damn relays and one goes out I'll never hear the end of it from docc. Never.

 

Ever.

 

I do need to place a Digikey order for some Molex pins so I guess it can't hurt to throw some relays on the order... how fast do they ship?

Posted

 

My Triumph was a similar weight and tire pressure.

 

The V11 is *probably* a bit more "rear weight biased."  Springs might be kinda soft if you weigh more than 165 pounds in your race leathers . . .

 

Might want to back the steering damper all the way off before you get out on the freeways passing trucks . . .

I wish I weighed 165 in race leathers. First of all I shouldn't be wearing race leathers, and secondly...

 

Should I crank up the rear spring load?

Posted

Sounds like your tires will be fine, just address the pressures.

 

Yeah, DigiKey is great. Probably have your relays there quickly. If not? They'll probably be *fine* . . .

 

Once home you can sort the suspension. The spring preload requires tank and airbox removal, so (again), it'll be fine for now!

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