Brake/Clutch Bleeding

[al_roethlisberger]

Great step-by-step

 

 

However, to be fair, if one gets the Speedbleeder fittings mentioned above, most of the repetitive steps are eliminated. Those things really work as advertised.

 

The fittings in combination with their "Bleeder IV Bag" ended up making the cleanest, easiest, and most effective bleeding process I have ever done.

 

al

[doug m]

A word of caution installing the so called correct SB1010S M10 x 1.0 speed bleeder for the clutch slave cylinder; was bleeding brakes and clutch today, and was installing the listed speedbleeders. I was installing the clutch bleeder and noticed it was getting tight while threading it in. I figured it was just the thread sealant getting tight, and being the dummy I am sometimes, turned it a few more times , and then noticed it wasn't seated near as close as the original. I pulled it out again, and the pointed tip was cupped back in, as it was bottoming out in the cylinder.Comparing it to the original, it is a good quarter inch longer than it should be. Even after filing it down close to the little bleed hole near the tip, it still seemed to long, so I just put the original back in and used it. Hopefully I didn't bugger anything in the slave cylinder by driving the tip into what I'm not sure??

[Guest ratchethack]

If you damage the seats under the bleed nipples by over-tightening (seems to occur with amazing frequency ), your options are to replace the caliper or slave cylinder, or re-cut the bleed nipple seats. I haven't ever heard of anyone successfully cutting new bleed nipple seats, but that doesn't mean it can't be done, and I reckon a good machine shop should be able to do it. You'll know if you've roached the seats if you can't get them to seal properly.

 

Why so many insist on using speed bleeders on Guzzi brakes and clutches is beyond me. I use a Power Bleeder for 4-wheel brake and auto clutch jobs, which eliminates the risk of damage to caliper and slave cylinder bleed nipple seats, and also eliminates the substantial risk of drawing air back into calipers and slave cylinders around loose threads, the "Achilles heel" of speed bleeders.

 

But having both a Power Bleeder and a speed bleeder on hand, I don't use either on the Guzzi, since it's so simple, easy, quick, and relatively risk free to bleed them without.

 

But o' course, that's just me.

[badmotogoozer]

hey doug - I did the same thing... The clutch slave has a steel ball (ala bearing) under the bleeder. The speed bleeder must be ground down so its profile matches the stock bleeder. As for damage... quite possible depending on how far you went torquing it down. Get everything bled nicely. The clutch lever should operate as smoothly as before. If it is stiff you have deformed the slave body enough that it interferes with the clutch actuator, new slave required. Hold the clutch lever down for a while, might even zip tie it down. The idea is to test if you have cracked the slave. Look for pressure to drop over time, come back in 15 min and see if the clutch is still disengaged. If there are no leaks and clutch operates smooth, you are likely just fine.

[doug m]

Thanks for the advice RH and BMG. they seemed like a good idea at the time! My clutch seems to still work smoothly, and can't see any leaks, so hopefully it should be OK.I guess it just goes to show you that the fancy gizmos are often not the way to go! Regards, Doug.

[savagehenry]

I guess it just goes to show you that the fancy gizmos are often not the way to go!

I figure easy and cheap is the way to go.

Take a clear piece of 1/4 inch diameter hose (like the kind you can get for a fish tank) a foot or two long. Near one end, make a small loop and secure it with a zip tie so you have a 1 inch straight part, then the loop, then the rest of the length of hose. Now;

1. Loosen the drain nipple, just "crack" it

2. Push hose on

3. Open nipple and compress Brake or Clutch Lever ONCE, draining into a jar or the beer bottle/can you've just finished

4. Hold lever down and re-tighten nipple

5. Repeat again, and top off the resevoir every few times

6. Repeat till you see the loop filled with clean fluid

 

The first or second pump, the hose is filled with fluid, in the loop, so you can't draw air back in. It works just like a little toilet trap for your Guzzi! The clear hose lets you see when the dirty stuff is out. It takes me 1/2 to 3/4 hour to do the three brakes and clutch by myself. I have used this for years, never had a problem.