Chuck Posted June 29, 2017 Posted June 29, 2017 Thanks for the picture. That's the first time I've seen an exploded view of the 6 speed. Hopefully, you've gone to a lot of trouble for a loose screw..
Scud Posted June 29, 2017 Author Posted June 29, 2017 I hope so too. The gear oil was pooling on the crossover, making for stinky, smoky starts. And now that I've been into a few of these 6-speeds, I don't fear them anymore. Tips if you ever have to split one: You do need the special tool to remove the nut from the input hub before pulling the gear stack out of the main case. You don't really need the transmission case holding tool (in the shop manual) The rear case and center case (that holds the gear stack) can be stubborn. I used a soft mallet and gentle leverage to start the separation. Then I used composite carpenters shims (not soft wood ones) to hold the gaps open as I worked around the cases to free them. (but still had to use a flat screwdriver between the cases in some spots) The toughest parts to separate are if sealant got into the alignment pins from original assembly. By the way - has anybody found a perfect match for the silver case paint? One of the cases is peeling. I have some silver VHT engine case paint that is close, but a bit brighter/bluer than the original.
LowRyter Posted June 29, 2017 Posted June 29, 2017 My gearbox was painted and is slightly lighter than the original paint. The other note, Don mentioned that he used premium sealant reassembling it. Something like $30 worth. I don't remember the particular product.
Scud Posted July 1, 2017 Author Posted July 1, 2017 Used Sachs shock arrived from Czakky... and used voltage regulator on the way to Wisconsin. Good trade. I love this place. 1
Scud Posted July 1, 2017 Author Posted July 1, 2017 How do you like my spring compressor tool? And here is Czakky's old shock, installed on the Greenie (but with spring and shiny blue bits that were originally on the Greenie). Thanks again. That's one thing off the garage floor today. And the offending crack on the lower mount of the original shock. Does the shock with the crack have any value to anyone - or is it trash? 2
docc Posted July 2, 2017 Posted July 2, 2017 Restoring PhotoBlockit images, I'm running across some amazing images within our forums: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5556&p=103957 4
BigBlock Posted July 2, 2017 Posted July 2, 2017 I would think that this would classify as the 8th wonder of the world, seeing four Greenies at once!
Scud Posted July 3, 2017 Author Posted July 3, 2017 How do you like my spring compressor tool? Uhhhhh.. Aw c'mon Chuck. It's cheap, effective, and there's a high risk of injury if the tourniquet sticks start spinning like propellors.
Scud Posted July 3, 2017 Author Posted July 3, 2017 The front of the swingarm and one corner of the subframe were badly rusted from a battery leak. Used VHT Gloss Black Rollbar and Chassis paint for the swingarm. It's a good match, but it's not my best paint job... mostly concerned about grinding off the rust and stopping further rust. I used the Chrysler, Duplicolor Flame Red that LowRyter suggested on the subframe. It's a great match from a distance, but up close it's a slightly darker red than the original. Horns de-rusted and painted. Alternator cover stripped, sanded and painted with VHT nu-cast aluminum and gloss clear coat. It's a pretty close match to the wheels and the swingarm end-covers, which has me looking at the poor-condition paint on the final drive... And one of the main reasons for digging in this far... the tranny is all sealed up and has fresh paint on the rear case. I didn't paint the other three cases, because I saw the slippery slope leading to the engine. Had a pep-talk with the parts on the left of the picture: "OK men. You need to get yourselves onto the towel and ready for installation."
Scud Posted July 3, 2017 Author Posted July 3, 2017 ...and here's how the aluminum paint looks on the light cover. I think it's a pretty good match for all the other silver stuff up there. I also replaced the rusted-chrome top-nut with a brushed one from a 2002 bike and replaced the aguila badge. Now, what to do about those fork caps?
Chuck Posted July 3, 2017 Posted July 3, 2017 ...and here's how the aluminum paint looks on the light cover. I think it's a pretty good match for all the other silver stuff up there. IMG_6461.jpg I also replaced the rusted-chrome top-nut with a brushed one from a 2002 bike and replaced the aguila badge. Now, what to do about those fork caps? You're going to have to move some metal to make them look like new. If that's the goal, the caps have to come off to start.. then.. patience, tongue depressor, various grades of paper.. I'd say around 260 through 500 grit.. polishing compound.. oh that's too much trouble. Maybe chuck them up in a lathe and sand em.. Uhh.. soda blast? That sounds easy. Dunno.
LowRyter Posted July 3, 2017 Posted July 3, 2017 Hopefully the flame red will fade over time and match the rest of the frame?
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