V11 Sport 2001 intermittent stalling

[luhbo]

You'll burn your fingers. That's all.

 

BTW, what part do use now? FIAT aftermarket for instance?

[Gio]

Any progress Tinus?

[Tinus89]

Yes! Excellent progress. Methodology applied:

 

- Put 0.78mm of tape on sensor, place one 0.4mm metal gasket (or shim) and installed. Severe denting of tape, this method does not work at all (requires a lot of tape replacements). I removed the tape. 

- I then placed another 0.2mm gasket on, placed the sensor in the hole and felt for radial play: gone, but just gone. Placed one layer of tape on and pushed it in, contact was shown. So: I was at zero gap. I then added a 0.7mm gasket ánd 0.7mm of tape and installed. Only a slight blob of oil visible on the tape. I added another 0.12mm piece of tape and installed it again, which indicated contact, so I had gapped it to 0.7mm! Whole process took about an hour or so.

 

I then fired her up and did (in about 5deg C higher outside temperature compared to last time) the exact same route and then stopping and starting routine. Nothing happened!

I then "confirmed" by doing a brief city tour, and again all fine. I would say: issue resolved!      

 

Some (other) findings:

- The o-ring underneath the sensor was significantly too large and had compressed/extruded out underneath the gasket/shim. Also, the metal base of the sensor was bent.

- The rattle seems to be coming from the inside of the right cylinder, not the left. Also, it varies with rpm and sometimes is also heard at high load/high rpm, but I am not 100% sure that is not pinging. I will continue to discuss the possible causes in my initial topic here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19627&page=8

[68C]

You can often 'control or feel' pinging, under load as you alter the throttle position the sound comes and goes, as the rpm increases you may be able to add a little throttle before the sound cones back. Either the mixture is too weak or the ignition timing is too advanced. I once had it on an old carb bike, turned out a spark plug thread was very sharp at the end and was probably glowing red hot, plug change and using a new crush washer cured it.

[Gio]

Great news re sensor results ... I can feel a collective sigh of relief as many were following and contributing to this thread! Further evidence of how awesome this forum is ... in fact, feel free to donate any proceeds of my sweepstake winnings to the cause (!)

[Tinus89]

Yes indeed! Thanks for all contributing!
Now back to the existing issue, the sound, in the other topic!

[Guzzi2Go]

Just to ask, is that with the old RPM sensor, did you just shim it properly, or did you also replace the sensor?

[Tinus89]

Just to ask, is that with the old RPM sensor, did you just shim it properly, or did you also replace the sensor?

 

I also replaced it, because:

- I wasn't sure it was OK

- The base plate of the sensor was bent (due to the too large o-ring)

- The cord had already been damaged. 

 

But to be honest: I think the distance was the issue (due to the too large o-ring)

[czakky]

I battled the same thing recently.

[gstallons]

When you check / adjust the air gap of this sensor you will want to be sure the one tooth you will be getting clearance verify it is in the center of the sensor bore.

[Tinus89]

When you check / adjust the air gap of this sensor you will want to be sure the one tooth you will be getting clearance verify it is in the center of the sensor bore.

 

Of course, otherwise it would not make any sense

[Tinknocker]

Hi all. I have a 2002 LeMans that's not feeling well right now and developed a sputtering and coughing when riding around town recently, and also felt it coughing while cruising at 70-85 mph. Came home after a 40ish mile ride yesterday, because I thought it was prudent, shut it off for 20 minutes and started it up to put in garage. Would fire up and die several times, try to rev it up and die. Noticed tach acted kinda funny too during this. Pushed it in garage and let sit a day. Fired it up today and didn't run quite right. Shut it off and checked fuel level, didn't notice a hiss or anything, fuel was more than half full. Started it again and seemed to be ok. I've read this thread through and wonder if the rev counter is going out, partially because of the tach irregularity I mentioned and that it seemed to appear when warmed up (it was 90ish degrees yesterday). I'm guessing it's the sensor on left front side of block, with 2 screws attaching it? It has external pump and filter and P.O. removed the charcoal can and hoses so I'm not sure what all he did as I haven't had tank off yet. Plan on doing a good tuneup, but don't have interface cable and software to do it completely right. Put new plugs in last week to see if that made any difference, and might have possibly made it worse than a couple weeks ago when I noticed it wasn't running quite right, IDK. P.O. had valves adjusted 5k'ish miles ago and I'm sure that wouldn't hurt to do either.

[Tomchri]

44 minutes ago, Tinknocker said:

Hi all. I have a 2002 LeMans that's not feeling well right now and developed a sputtering and coughing when riding around town recently, and also felt it coughing while cruising at 70-85 mph. Came home after a 40ish mile ride yesterday, because I thought it was prudent, shut it off for 20 minutes and started it up to put in garage. Would fire up and die several times, try to rev it up and die. Noticed tach acted kinda funny too during this. Pushed it in garage and let sit a day. Fired it up today and didn't run quite right. Shut it off and checked fuel level, didn't notice a hiss or anything, fuel was more than half full. Started it again and seemed to be ok. I've read this thread through and wonder if the rev counter is going out, partially because of the tach irregularity I mentioned and that it seemed to appear when warmed up (it was 90ish degrees yesterday). I'm guessing it's the sensor on left front side of block, with 2 screws attaching it? It has external pump and filter and P.O. removed the charcoal can and hoses so I'm not sure what all he did as I haven't had tank off yet. Plan on doing a good tuneup, but don't have interface cable and software to do it completely right. Put new plugs in last week to see if that made any difference, and might have possibly made it worse than a couple weeks ago when I noticed it wasn't running quite right, IDK. P.O. had valves adjusted 5k'ish miles ago and I'm sure that wouldn't hurt to do either.

Have you checked the charging ?

Cheers tom

[Bbennett]

Simple things first - pls check your battery connections (one might be loose and vibrate at a certain frequency)

[Lucky Phil]

On 6/20/2017 at 10:27 PM, Tinus89 said:

Yes! Excellent progress. Methodology applied:

 

- Put 0.78mm of tape on sensor, place one 0.4mm metal gasket (or shim) and installed. Severe denting of tape, this method does not work at all (requires a lot of tape replacements). I removed the tape. 

- I then placed another 0.2mm gasket on, placed the sensor in the hole and felt for radial play: gone, but just gone. Placed one layer of tape on and pushed it in, contact was shown. So: I was at zero gap. I then added a 0.7mm gasket ánd 0.7mm of tape and installed. Only a slight blob of oil visible on the tape. I added another 0.12mm piece of tape and installed it again, which indicated contact, so I had gapped it to 0.7mm! Whole process took about an hour or so.

 

I then fired her up and did (in about 5deg C higher outside temperature compared to last time) the exact same route and then stopping and starting routine. Nothing happened!

I then "confirmed" by doing a brief city tour, and again all fine. I would say: issue resolved!      

 

Some (other) findings:

- The o-ring underneath the sensor was significantly too large and had compressed/extruded out underneath the gasket/shim. Also, the metal base of the sensor was bent.

- The rattle seems to be coming from the inside of the right cylinder, not the left. Also, it varies with rpm and sometimes is also heard at high load/high rpm, but I am not 100% sure that is not pinging. I will continue to discuss the possible causes in my initial topic here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19627&page=8

To set the sensor gap you clean the end of the sensor to remove any oil and apply a thin( say 1mm thick) piece of Plasticine over the entire surface then apply some grease to the surface of the Plasticine and with the original shims fitted insert the sensor and push it into place as hard as you can. Remove the sensor and remove the indented Plasticine with  a thin blade and measure the thickness with a pair of vernier calipers. Adjust the shims as required leaning towards the larger end of the tolerance. Even if the little piece of Plasticine falls off it wont do any harm in the engine but if done correctly it doesnt fall off.

Ciao