docc Posted July 3, 2020 Posted July 3, 2020 27 minutes ago, Tinknocker said: OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12 DC 40A, 12V High Current Automotive Relay 5.0 out of 5 stars. (11) 11 product ratings Brand New $10.80 Buy It Now FAST 'N FREE Guaranteed by Thu, Jul. 9 Save up to 12% when you buy more Is this the right one? It has "R1" in part # whereas Docc's link is "R" only? Also, I seem to remember reading that #1 relay has 1 more pin than #2&3, but, that #1 will work for all 3. Is that correct? They don't have results for G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12. Thanks Chuck, Deoxit "A/V" kit in cart. Not sure what the added "1" designation is. I do not see it in the product description sheet from OMRON ("R" is surge suppression /built in resistor): https://omronfs.omron.com/en_US/ecb/products/pdf/en-g8he.pdf Indeed, the #1 Relay is the only 5-pin, but they (5-pin/"C" pattern) can be installed in every position, and therefor moved about freely as necessary. $10.80 each? Yikes! Why not just get them for $3.91 each from onlinecomponents, fill every slot and have an extra set? 2
Tinknocker Posted July 4, 2020 Posted July 4, 2020 Thanks Docc. I was going to go with eBay simply because buying Deoxit there also. They are 5 for $25, so $5 each. I will probably go with your suggestion as it is a little cheaper and exactly the same part #. Checked the main ground, and it was mounted to case. They left the paint on though so I scraped it off, cleaned everything up and brushed with copper antiseize. Probably go for a shakedown ride tomorrow and see how she runs. I think I'll leave the gas in it to minimize variables. I'm suspecting the relay could be the problem. 1
docc Posted July 4, 2020 Posted July 4, 2020 Welldone, man! Everything you are doing is going to help and be additive. I learned from gstallons that the "copper antisieze" I was so dedicated to is an insulator. Caig DeOxit is the bomb!
gstallons Posted July 4, 2020 Posted July 4, 2020 I missed what you are doing here....... please explain . are you fixing a ground connection ?
Tinknocker Posted July 4, 2020 Posted July 4, 2020 14 hours ago, gstallons said: I missed what you are doing here....... please explain . are you fixing a ground connection ? Intermittent stuttering is the problem I'm chasing. I noted that I cleaned the main ground and used copper antiseize on it and Docc brought up that you mentioned it's actually an insulator. I need to redo it anyway as I forgot to put sealer on the threads since it's a through hole to tranny. Will probably leak oil if I don't. Thanks.
gstallons Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 There are a multitude of "things" you can use on the ground strap . I would use a serrated washer along with Contax . It is a grease electricians use on ground connections . The bottle I have is a catalog # CTB8 . You need a complete circuit for things to be perfect . W/O witnessing your problem , I don't know what you need to cure your bike . 1
Tinknocker Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 Took her out for 60'ish mile ride, mostly rural and some slow in town riding and seemed a little better after swapping 2 & 3 relays. Definitely cranked better after cleaning paint off case for main ground. But, came home and let her sit about 20 minutes while I cleaned bugs off windscreen & helmet and attempted to start to put in garage and starting issues remain after sitting post ride. Didn't want to rev at all, died several times trying to start to move into garage. Would idle for a couple moments then die and attempting to rev it would stutter and die. IDK, seems like a vacuum leak or fuel boil. Will let cool down and try later I guess. She's never acted like this, even after a spirited ride, til recently.
Tinknocker Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 33 minutes ago, gstallons said: Is your pump in-tank or under tank ? Under tank. Fuel filter is under tank as well. I'm thinking vapor lock post ride. Looks like non-electric fuel cock, no wires going to it. A wire going to fitting beside it, low fuel sensor? Just don't remember having run issues after letting it sit after a ride, seems a new issue.
gstallons Posted July 6, 2020 Posted July 6, 2020 Make sure you have the fuel shut-off turned on . I have a story to ( not ) tell you about that one .
Tinknocker Posted July 6, 2020 Posted July 6, 2020 6 minutes ago, gstallons said: Make sure you have the fuel shut-off turned on . I have a story to ( not ) tell you about that one . Tried to turn the knurled knob a couple years ago out of curiosity, it wouldn't budge with my fingers. Didn't use tools on it and left it alone. Felt I might open a bag of worms if I proceeded. Omrons ordered from online components & Casper's breakout harness (thanks Docc), Caig Deoxit on the way also. Once my Buell is back in action, the tank is coming off and a decent tune-up will commence, minus CO adjustment. Don't have necessary soft and hardware for that. Thanks. 1
gstallons Posted July 6, 2020 Posted July 6, 2020 I am wanting you to verify good fuel flow . That is the only reason . Remember , you are getting internet opinions and we are getting your description about the bike's symptom(s) .
gstallons Posted July 7, 2020 Posted July 7, 2020 After the bike cooled down completely , did it run better w/no problems or do you still have issues ?
Tinknocker Posted July 7, 2020 Posted July 7, 2020 It ran better after cooling down for 30 minutes or so.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now