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Posted

OH BOY! another crossover post.

Just received my X-type crossover from Ghezzi&Brian.

Cannot wait to put it on, and hear/feel the difference.

I already have the MG "Race" ecu, so it should be good to go without any fuss.

Should save 20lbs of exhaust system weight, and I'll be able to change the oil without the mess.

Hopefully, say good bye to that 4-4500 rpm hole.

 

 

G_B_Crossover - Copy.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice! Do they actually connect? Will you post a video?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

You have a fantastic username!

Never heard of the Ghezzi Brian x-over. Looks like a cross between mistral and Stucchi.

Posted

Everything installed OK.  Had to do a little shifting around to get everything aligned.  The kickstand would make contact with the front clamps.  The G&B clamps are the size of the stock rear clamps.  The stock fronts were spot welded into place, so I could not use the stock clamps.  Bent the rubber kickstand bumper down a bit, and everything was well.  Stock crossover and cat was lighter than I would have thought.  Maybe only 5lbs saved.
 
Sounds much deeper than the stock arrangement.  I have BMC filter, FBF pipes, MG race ECU.  Rainy day here, so waiting to take it out.

 

Tried to post a vid, so you could hear it, but the file was too big for a 9 sec file.

Goose_crossovers.JPG

Goose_front.JPG

Goose_side.JPG

Goose_starter.JPG

Goose_under.JPG

Posted

Nice! Well done! :thumbsup:

 

(Hmm . . .  catalytic converter in the factory US crossover? )

Posted

You have a fantastic username!

I jokingly say: "Barnapkin is where all of the Lions fan's tears end up."

Posted

So does it actually crossover or just kiss?

Posted

I'd have thought they must connect.

 

They don't technically have to.

Posted

Nice! Well done! :thumbsup:

 

(Hmm . . .  catalytic converter in the factory US crossover? )

Hmm.. they don't have a cat converter just a big space, right?

Posted

 

I'd have thought they must connect.

 

 

They don't technically have to.

Sure, i just meant these look like they do..

Posted

 

Nice! Well done! :thumbsup:

 

(Hmm . . .  catalytic converter in the factory US crossover? )

Hmm.. they don't have a cat converter just a big space, right?

 

There's a perforated flat baffle in the factory crossover, but no cat(alytic converter) AFAIK.

Posted

OK ...

Cat - Blah Blah Blah

Crossover - split pipes or shared flow.  Sorry, I did not shine a flashlight in one pipe to check.  Assumed there was shared flow.  I did send email to Brian, But I bet he never replies because it's an implied function of a crossover.

 

After some drama, I finally got to ride the bike last night.

The 3500-5K hole is gone; wow!

Top end did not feel OMG stronger, and quite frankly, with the bike's mass and tall gearing it is subjective on the butt dyno.

Engine does feel smoother, and I'll assume because there are fewer flat spots in power output; again subjective butt dyno.

Since I have the MG race ECM, the combo of BCM air filter (no lid), crossover, and cans all seem to like each other.

That's what any of us would hope for.

 

Took awhile to get the bike out for a ride because right as I was wheeling the bike off of the lift, the front tire slipped and tipped over.

Regardless of my cursing and yanking on the handlebar, the bike did not stay up.

Maybe I reduced the impact, yet the rear brake lever and right side footpeg snapped.

Crappy cast parts.

I had just finished working on my KTM dirtbike, so I assume there was some dusting of sand that I missed .. To quote my wife "don't use your man eyes!"

 

After fishing on the internet, it became abundantly clear that there aren't many rearset options for the V11.

I don't understand all the V7 love.

I hadn't looked before because I had installed the Buell step-down footpegs when I bought the bike new.

I ended up ordering the Motobits rearsets.

They are very NICE!

The 45mm forward positioning was immediately noticeable; even with my 32in inseam.

Instructions were good, and the materials seem to be well made.

Only clarifications I would make would be:

1 - Pointing out to remove the nut from the stock footpeg base to use a long 17MM wrench from the bottom.

2 - Removing the funky shaped shifter out first; no need to loosen the starter.

 

Included a few pics.

Goose_kit.jpg

Goose_wrench.jpg

Goose_Broken.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

 "don't use your man eyes!"

Good one..  :thumbsup:

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