Airbox sensor?

[GuzziMoto]

I reckon what makes the stock air-box run so good is the intake rubbers between the throttle body and air-box

These are like Velocity stacks. I used these to extend my pods and it removed the flat spot.

That no doubt plays a role. But there is also a big advantage to having a box of relatively still air for the motor to inhale from. The volume of that box also plays a large part in how well the motor runs. That volume and shape can actually be tuned somewhat like an exhaust pipe to improve flow into the motor.

[Kiwi_Roy]

No doubt, I'm not disputing what you say, fitting the rubbers between the throttle bodies and pods removed a flat spot mid range on my bike.

Pods attached directly to the throttle bodies look nice but they don't perform well.

I have since tossed the pods because they were getting a little ratty and re-fitted the air box etc

 

The PO removed the intake snorkles and ran with an open top, do they make a difference also?

[GuzziMoto]

My Daytona, which does not have the stock airbox, runs pods fitted to fancy Aluminium velocity stacks. I don't know where my friend, the previous owner, bought them but that was years ago and my friend is no longer with us. But someone used to make them. I do think they help. And running the stock rubber / plastic ones would be better then not running them.

The snorkel is more about noise reduction then power. I had a Suzuki DRZ, the most common mod on those was to remove the snorkel and cut the snorkel hole to a 3" x 3" square (make it bigger). That seemed to let the right amount of air in, but did make more noise doing so. I also cut the intake snorkel on my Lario out. It definitely changed the amount of air going into the airbox (and on to the engine) but also increase the noise. The bike was slightly rich in the mid-range and with the snorkel cut out it runs great. It has stock pipes so you can actually hear the new intake noise clearly over the sound of the exhaust.

If I could re-fit the airbox to my Daytona I would. But the bike is rather extensively modded and the stock airbox will not fit back on. The pods with the velocity stacks work well enough, but I would rather have the airbox.

[docc]

Still loving my bell mouth mod (ditched the restrictor snorkels almost Day One when the Sport came home).

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19239&hl=%2Baria+%2Bstock+%2Bair+%2Bbox

[Cabernet]

Runs fine.

 

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[czakky]

I'm not getting it.....?

[docc]

I'm not getting it.....?

Hmmm . . .  I see a little copper tube nosing out from under the tank. Is it an air intake just for the Air Temperature sensor?

[Cabernet]

 

I'm not getting it.....?

Hmmm . . . I see a little copper tube nosing out from under the tank. Is it an air intake just for the Air Temperature sensor?

Yup

 

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[docc]

The red front brake lines look like arteries to vital organs.

[Cabernet]

These might help more.

 

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[docc]

How cool is that? That's a lot of effort put forth!

 

And those massive head guards that are captured by all of the cover fasteners, not just the outboard four.

[Cabernet]

Theory goes, at slow and stationary the copper will quickly conduct heat to the air in the sensor tube. As soon as significant motion occurs, the draft through the tube will cool the sensor, basically simulating that which the throttle bodies will see. Seems to work over the first 250 miles.

 

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[Cabernet]

The red front brake lines look like arteries to vital organs.

There's a matching one to the clutch also.

 

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[docc]

Theory goes, at slow and stationary the copper will quickly conduct heat to the air in the sensor tube. As soon as significant motion occurs, the draft through the tube will cool the sensor, basically simulating that which the throttle bodies will see. Seems to work over the first 250 miles.

 

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Interesting theory. I wondered why you added a heat sink to the temp sensor.

[Cabernet]

 

Theory goes, at slow and stationary the copper will quickly conduct heat to the air in the sensor tube. As soon as significant motion occurs, the draft through the tube will cool the sensor, basically simulating that which the throttle bodies will see. Seems to work over the first 250 miles.

 

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Interesting theory. I wondered why you added a heat sink to the temp sensor.

Heat sink, as in the copper tube or the clamp that holds it in place from the fuel pump bolt.

 

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