docc Posted December 15, 2017 Posted December 15, 2017 Looks to be mineral based, so okay for around the points (no silicone to form silicon dioxide/ *glass* on the points !). Plus, "Its good wear protection properties are enhanced by the barium complex thickener." That may be all the food-groups, right there!
czakky Posted December 15, 2017 Author Posted December 15, 2017 Docc: part time moderator, part time chemist. I forgot about the silicon dioxide gas... I was just thinking that it’s (staburag grease) low fling, thin lube ability properties would make a good points lube. 1
czakky Posted January 8, 2018 Author Posted January 8, 2018 I think I’m basically done on this thing for the winter. I’ve got all I’ve wanted to accomplish, minus the period looking rear sets that are getting fabbed here in WI. Rebuilt oil injector (huge pain, 1mmx2mm plungers that I lost about a dozen times) Cleaned heads and pistons Fresh 525 chain and sprockets (-1 in front, more wheelies!) Cb400 bars with the wiring running inside Cleaned out the oil tank (which was full of rust, strange as the gas tank is spotless) Fresh points, condensers and re timed Fork seals and proper springs Steering head bearings (easier than I thought and it was my first time) Fixed a couple minor trans oil leaks Lots of cleaning and some re-wiring I’m sure there is more but now I’m at a point that I’m satisfied. I debated about doing a total restore with fresh powder coat on the frame and re-chroming pipes and parts but I’m a rider more than a restorer. I had some crazy expansion chambers that would move the power band up in the rev range and add another 2k rpms of usable power! But I sold em to a cafe type dude. The R5s are less plentiful than the RD350s and the RDs make a lot more power when modded. I do have some street chambers that I might use if I feel the need. Also JRD, I bought some cheap made in India baffles to try your buddies trick for squeezing more flow into the stock exhaust system. It’s a blast learning about these old smokers and how the old school dudes are able to get so much more power out of these things by basically tuning charge and exhaust flow. So simple and cool. I feel like it’s a good yang to my Guzzi’s ying. 2
JRD Posted January 8, 2018 Posted January 8, 2018 Hi Bill and Happy New Year to the family. By any chance when you had the jugs off did you match the openings on the sides of the Piston skirts to the cut outs on the cylinder sleeves? We would also blend the steps between the sleeve and the aluminum on all the ports. Not sure if we gained more power but the bikes always ran sharper☺ Also, clean up the intake ports and mirror polish the exhaust ports. You Will notice a difference!.
czakky Posted January 8, 2018 Author Posted January 8, 2018 Back at ya Jerry! Dude I’m too unsteady and not smart enough to remove material. That is what the tuners recommend as a first step in porting these things. That and opening the transfer, rounding it too. Lots for me to learn. I’m working on getting a second set of cylinders to have em ported.
Scud Posted January 8, 2018 Posted January 8, 2018 What a cool bike. I'm stoked that you've got her ready to run - and you tried some new things, like steering head bearings - first time is always the most difficult, then you say: "That's what I was afraid of doing? No big deal." That should be a lot fun. especially with that change in gearing. No clearance issues with smaller sprocket up front? Does that bike have rubber chain sliders on the swingarm or frame?
czakky Posted January 8, 2018 Author Posted January 8, 2018 No clearance issues with the sprocket, but I wouldn’t want to go any smaller it gets to be a tight turn. 15 to a 14 tooth. There really isn’t any wearable chain guide and there isn’t much if any wear on the swing arm where the chain rides. Good point to keep an eye on that though with the smaller sprocket.
JRD Posted January 8, 2018 Posted January 8, 2018 You will know if there is chain/swing arm issue when hear a funny vibration and grinding noise
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