My 2003 V11 Sport Modifications

[BLIGHT]

I would ditch the power commander, those wer ok as a stop gap measure before we got Guzzidiag.

 

I went with a MyECU kit so I could make adjustments but now I'm thinking of changing back to stock

Yeah, the PCIII seems kind of like a 'band-aid'.

It's running pretty well (although not perfect) for now, so I'm gonna work on some other stuff in the mean-time.

GuzziDiag seems like a far better solution from the little I've read about it.

[docc]

Hi guys, I got the poor running and starting issues fixed too, at least it's wayyyy better.

 

Turns out the PCIII installed by the P.O. had no map installed.

 

I would guess that pretty much lets it run thru the OEM ECU without any changes.

 

Since it has very free flow pipes, there was that common flat spot-cutting out at part-throttle midrange.

 

I downloaded the M706-002 map for a '2001 V11 with stock crossover and Mistral pipes'.

 

It now runs great, and feels every bit as fast as my XR1200... maybe even faster than the Harley!

 

The HD is a long-stroke engine, (stroke longer than bore mm) so naturally makes a lot of low and midrange torque, and feels deceptively more powerful in normal street riding.

 

The XR1200 does have a relatively high redline for a Harley (7000 rpm) so it makes pretty good max. power too.

 

With the new map, gone is that stumble on the V11, now it makes good power all thru the powerband to redline... starts easier too.

 

I was cruising on Hwy. 1 thru Monterey yesterday at 70-75 and amazed it was turning 4000 rpm in top gear!

 

Seems high for a big twin to run that fast at California cruising speed, but I hear these motors are robust.

 

The V11 by contrast to the Harley is a 'short-stroke' engine (stroke shorter than bore mm) so you would expect it to rev higher, and make less low and mid-range torque, but still producing a high max hp number.

 

Horsepower, after all, is the amount of torque delivered at a given rpm.

 

I'm much happier with the V11 Sport now!!... it was a disappointing 1st ride. It felt like an old Honda 450 power-wise... maybe 45 hp?

 

Feels more like 80 or 90 hp now... it's great fun, and that is a great transmission too.. shifts like buttah!

 

Gear ratios are spaced just right to keep it in the power-band.

 

BLIGHT

Interesting observation. It's pretty common to hear riders coming from American V-twins expecting the V11 to be as happy in lower revs. Yet, quite the opposite is true: the V11 just *starts* getting happy at 4,000 rpm, sweet spot: 5,000, and **SWOOSH** (right, Dave?) beyond that!   

She'll cruise all day long at 4-5,000.

 

At 2,000 to 3,900, the V11 will be decidedly unhappy for  a number of reasons.

 

So, let her sing that full-chested aria!     

[LowRyter]

Docc.  I think twins have a more narrow power range than my 4 cyl bike.  Twins can lug, pull in the mid range or rev but not all three.  Actually my EV is can't be lugged as much as the Sport.  I would guess the gearing is the difference.  

 

When I lug a hi perf twin like a Duc or Aprilia they get "snatchy" when under the cam.  And when I try to rev a Harley, Victory or Indian, they just quit at 5k.  My 4 cyl 1200 Bandit will go from 1k to 11k and never get lugged or stressed.  OTOH an R6 is doggy under 10k and then goes like a scalded dog to 15k. 

[BLIGHT]

I would ditch the power commander, those wer ok as a stop gap measure before we got Guzzidiag.

 

I went with a MyECU kit so I could make adjustments but now I'm thinking of changing back to stock

 

Ordered the cable pair last night so I can back up the existing .bin map for safety reasons,and try uploading one with Guzzidiag that works better.

 

I'll be going with K&N style cylindrical pods and will remove the airbox, etc.

 

Hopefully there is a .bin file available for that setup with OEM crossover and free-flow pipes.

BLIGHT

[Tom M]

With your exhaust and intake mods you'll need a richer map.  I don't know if you have access to a BIN file that's compatible with your mods, but since you already have a PCIII your easiest route might be to load the GH67 map to your PCIII from here, assuming that you have a stock ECU:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020

 

There are also lots of DynoJet centers out there that will create a custom map for your bike with the PCIII.  I don't know where you could go to have a custom BIN file created for your bike with your mods.

[BLIGHT]

With your exhaust and intake mods you'll need a richer map.  I don't know if you have access to a BIN file that's compatible with your mods, but since you already have a PCIII your easiest route might be to load the GH67 map to your PCIII from here, assuming that you have a stock ECU:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020

 

There are also lots of DynoJet centers out there that will create a custom map for your bike with the PCIII.  I don't know where you could go to have a custom BIN file created for your bike with your mods.

Thanks... do you think it's any better than the one I uploaded to it? It's for a stock airbox, stock crossover and free flow 'Mistral' mufflers.

Runs pretty good now I must say, especially considering I wasn't wringing it's neck enough... everybody says it's not supposed to be happy under 3000 rpm, and it does really wake up at 4000 rpm and above. The flat-spot is gone and no more cutting out... plus it starts up hot or cold a lot better.

 

Once I get the pods on and relocate the air-temp sensor I'll need to 'rejet' with a different map, whether it's PCIII or Guzzidiag with the OEM ECU.

Nice to have choices!

 

I'm just used to short-shifting my VFR1200 (97 ft-lbs) as it does not need much throttle application or rpm... you'll be in big trouble fast if you do!

 

I'll just ride the Guzzi differently now that I know what she likes.

BLIGHT

[BLIGHT]

Hey dudes... last night I put on the WoodCraft clipons with 2.5" risers. Very nice quality, made in USA quality, but cost $170 clams.

 

The stock rise on my OEM V11 clips was about 1", so with the WoodCrafts it's a net 1.5" rise.

 

It's enough to make a comfort difference! I only went for a short ride but my 62 year old neck and wrists appreciated the slight lift.

 

The Galfer braided hoses from the PO have long-rad 90 deg bends where they attach to the master cylinders on both sides.

 

That's not good now, as the lines on both sides now contact the edges of the gauge mount plate, and because the hoses are too short now, they seem stretched.

 

I was prepared for that to happen, but if the banjos had been straight (no bend) it would have worked perfectly as on my other bikes.

 

I have ordered a new set of black sleeved SS Venhill lines for the front end, but the clutch side needs work too, as the line is pretty kinked because of the stupid 90 long-rad. ell.

 

The new Venhill front brake lines are supposed to be here in the AM.

 

It's quite rideable as it is, but I want to make it right, eh?! So I guess I'll be ordering a longer clutch hose too (minus the long-radius 90 ell)

 

I've heard it's kind of a 'beeyatch' to replace this long clutch hose, so maybe I'll machine a neat little adapter to remove the 90 deg kink at the bars.. I made a quick hand-sketch of it today: 

 

 

I can't believe it... I looked over the ENTIRE internet and could see nothing like it!

 

Seems like a couple of 100 other folks on the planet could use this little adapter.

 

PS: I didn't draw the tubing fitting 90 ell quite correctly... trust me, the banjo part needs to rotate 90 deg on it's axis to clear the gauges.

 

BLIGHT

[BLIGHT]

Enjoying the higher bars from Woodcraft! The bar rise caused hose clearance issues as described in prior posts...
 
I installed 2 new longer Venhill brake lines with straight banjo ends ends to remove the 90 deg kink that was causing the hose to hit the gauge bracket.
 
This pic shows the fixed brake side using two hoses, stacked banjos, and a dual-banjo bolt. Done!
 
It also shows the still severely kinked clutch line due to the sharp 90 on the end of the hose.
 

 
For my little swivel adapter, I bought a 10mm gas-spring billet rod-end online, drilled and tapped the female thread 10M x 1.25 (that's the tap I had) and used a Honda brake-line banjo bolt. Honda uses a 1.25mm pitch, where Guzzi/Brembo use a 1.0mm thread pitch.
 
Then, I drilled a 1/8" hole connecting the female threaded part to the banjo 'hole' for fluid to pass through.
Just finished it and took a pic below (you can see the connecting hole I drilled:
 
 
I'll take another pic when it's installed and all is back to 'normal-looking'... I hate looking at that kinked hose!!
BLIGHT
 
Update: Final 'dash pic' with the swivel adapter installed on the clutch master cylinder. Works perfectly!

 

 

The little billet rod-end is about $10 USD and is made in Germany. Sold all over the internet thru various outlets.

 
Now I don't have to look at that ugly kinked hose 

[Scud]

That is clever - and probably less work and less expense than replacing the clutch line. 

 

I like what you're doing. Keep posting the progress.

[bbolesaz]

Blight, how much did you have to raise the fork tubes in the triples to use the Woodcraft risers?

[BLIGHT]

I think it would be a minimum 1/2" raise the tubes to use the WoodCraft... I had already raised mine 3/4" (the width of a piece of masking tape that I used for reference) to sharpen the lazy steering a bit, and I like the improvement...

 

There are folks that may not like the idea, but I do it regularly on all of my 'builds' and it helps wake up the handling, and also gives a lower center of gravity, and a tad more weight on the front, which the Guzzi can use.

 

I now have about 1/4" 'surplus' tube above the WoodCrafts, and If I wasn't so lazy and/or tired I'd go out and measure the clamp heights for comparison.

 

If you really want the measurements, I can do it... but I'd say 1/2" raise would be adequate for a full clamp area.

 

The rather pricey WoodCrafts (made in USA yay!) are a pretty good rise, net of about 2" because the OEM ones on my year are mounted above the upper triple, and had about a 1/2" rise by eyeball.

 

The difference in comfort besides being taller is you can change the rotation angle because there is no locating screw. I guess you could remove those screws on the OEM bars and be perfectly safe, but they are there for safety.

 

The OEM bars use one large screw per bar for the clamping, where the Woodcraft uses four smaller screws per clamp.

 

Because the bars are higher, even pulled way back the end-weights will not hit the tank.

 

If you want to rotate the bars forward, that's possible too, for a 'flatter' bar angle.

 

I actually used the OEM Guzzi 7/8" forged bars, grips, and end-weights, and just inserted them into the taller WoodCraft clamps.

 

Saves a lot of fiddling with switches, levers, mirrors, grip-swapping, etc. Easy peasy!

 

Well, except for the DANG hoses....!!

 

Worth doing in my opinion if you are getting older and your neck and wrists are hurting.

 

Riding should be fun and not a 'poseur' event for style.... being comfy will make it a lot more fun, and you'll ride longer, and more often.

 

BLIGHT

[BLIGHT]

Anybody notice the 'Salvador Dali' warped gauge reflections in the fairing screen in the last photo?

Yeah... I planned that  

[BLIGHT]

That is clever - and probably less work and less expense than replacing the clutch line. 

 

I like what you're doing. Keep posting the progress.

 

Thank you, and I will... next up: airbox removal and pod filters to be installed... also got the Guzzidiag cable set today so that will be a new tune soon.

[bbolesaz]

I give up.  I must have the version of google that cannot find 10mm gas spring billet rod end.

 

Mind posting a link?

[docc]

Anybody notice the 'Salvador Dali' warped gauge reflections in the fairing screen in the last photo?

Yeah... I planned that  

That is sooooo cool! Thanks for pointing that out!