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Posted

I don't really see why you would need to do anything else then properly degreasing the pressure plates?

Posted

Clean and re-assemble is a good plan. That safety washer was damaged, and therefore should be replaced. 

 

For what it's worth, when my LeMans clutch started slipping, I installed new friction plates, springs, and intermediate plate. I just roughed up the pressure plate and friction surface of the starter ring with coarse sandpaper. But in retrospect, I could have gotten away with only replacing 5 springs. The friction plates still had life in them. I think that alternating 5 original and 5 heavy springs would have extended the life of the original parts significantly. 

 

Re flywheel bolts - I've heard that you should not re-use them. I don't know if that's true - or just people repeating gossip... but like you said, new fasteners are cheap.

 

I think I may have 5 heavy springs I can send you - but not till Saturday. But they're only like $2.00 each at MG Cycle. You can also get a new intermediate plate for about $25. That will give you two fresh surfaces.

Posted

I'll see if I can simply degrease and lightly dress the plates. They are not grooved or damaged.

 

The rear friction plate material is extremely loose on both sides. Would not have been much longer before it "came from together."

 

MotoInternational lists the OEM spring part number, rather than the "stiffer/softer" options.

Posted

 

Re flywheel bolts - I've heard that you should not re-use them. I don't know if that's true - or just people repeating gossip... but like you said, new fasteners are cheap.

 

When you see somewhere that the bolts should not be reused it's because they are designed to stretch when torqued. Conrod bolts are an example.

 

Even if they are expensive, replace them.

  • Like 2
Posted

Look on the head for exact specs. The bolts are 12.x plus Loctite Medium. Also look up how to torque them - I think it was 40Nm or so, but I'm guessing here.

I reused mine btw. Properly torqued they aren't stretched.

Don't mind the colour of your plates, for me they're looking good.

Loose friction plates are garbage. You may weld a lever to one of them and use it for blocking the input wheel.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Building tools out of the old parts is brilliant! I thought I would use the input hub as a clutch compressor, but it goes back to work . . .

 

My "engine man" looked at the plates and felt there is no change to the metal, only a glaze. 400 grit aluminum oxide cloth appears to be effective. He cautioned me to use a flat backing surface.

 

Results soon to follow! :luigi:

Posted

Looks like the pressure plate will be fine . . .

IMG_2591.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

Andy, thanks for bringing attention to this:

The pressure plate has a hole drilled in one of the teeth; flywheel has an arrow to index the springs.

 

IMG_2592.jpg

Also, we marked the flywheel to the crank, and the "ring gear" to the flywheel.

Posted

 

One unanswered question (among the many), can these surfaces be restored?

gallery_328_223_1498244.jpeg

 

Answer:

IMG_2594.JPG

Posted

I tried to check it out, but their stupid website wanted registration before it would show prices and for some reason, it never sent the registration email.  Like I said above, I think it is the RAM clutch, Valpolini seems to be a parts house.

Posted

That picture at valpolini looked is exactly like the aluminum flywheel and clutch assembly I took out of my Scura - and does not look like the Ram unit I installed; which has a steel flywheel.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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