bbolesaz Posted July 27, 2017 Posted July 27, 2017 AFAIK (from Beemer experience, not Guzzi), the caged side goes towards the button. The roller side towards the clutch. Based on the clutch is spinning, and the button and rod are not supposed to.
docc Posted July 27, 2017 Author Posted July 27, 2017 Since the rod on the Guzzi goes from the clutch pressure plate (spinning) through the gearbox to the thrust bearing in front of the slave, it makes sense to face the rollers forward. Doesn't it?
swooshdave Posted July 27, 2017 Posted July 27, 2017 Could never hurt to ask MG Cycle, is that where you got it from?
docc Posted July 27, 2017 Author Posted July 27, 2017 I got it from MotoInternational. The packaging shows the MI/Guzzi part number tagged over a TLM (Teo Lamers/ Netherlands) tag with the same number. Apparently, it's the same part for almost all Guzzi transmissions 4sp/5sp/6sp. The replacement part looks a little chintzy to me.
Scud Posted July 27, 2017 Posted July 27, 2017 I don't think it matters what way it goes in. Rollers spin in the caged part. I also thought the replacement looked weaker than the original. I did talk to gordon at MG Cycle about it. Gordon said they sometimes get one kind and sometimes the other. He thinks there's no practical real-world difference in performance or longevity. 1
gstallons Posted July 28, 2017 Posted July 28, 2017 As long as the best looking portions of the thrust washers face the rollers you will be good . Assemble with white lube you will be ok.
docc Posted July 28, 2017 Author Posted July 28, 2017 As long as the best looking portions of the thrust washers face the rollers you will be good . Assemble with white lube you will be ok. The replacement comes with one new thrust washer and the cage provides the other. It's not enough to bath it in RedLine SP gearoil? Otherwise, "white lube" implies lithium grease?
docc Posted August 1, 2017 Author Posted August 1, 2017 After spending some *quality time* with these assemblies, it makes more sense to me to refer to this entire assembly as the "throw-out bearing" and not just the thrust bearing alone. As such, if you are going to renew the "throw-out bearing," go ahead and get the O-ring [ 90 70 6170 ] that seals the "clutch control cylinder" since it is all that contains the gearoil ahead of the slave cylinder.
docc Posted August 1, 2017 Author Posted August 1, 2017 BTW, if one is fortunate enough to use the wonderful and proper Special Tools for this operation, be certain to use the correct Special Tool Fluid . . .
Chuck Posted August 2, 2017 Posted August 2, 2017 ^^^^^^ Nice.. I've never seen the special tool fluid. I'll send that picture to the Kid and see if they have some in Wisconsin. They are big on fluids there.. 1
swooshdave Posted August 2, 2017 Posted August 2, 2017 What happened here? It looks like bubbling paint? 1
docc Posted August 2, 2017 Author Posted August 2, 2017 What happened here? It looks like bubbling paint? For sure! I just wiped out all that loose paint. Odd that it is painted in there, but it was a all loose (I suppose from clutch fluid in front of the slave). Good eye, thanks!
craigsinclair Posted August 6, 2017 Posted August 6, 2017 An alternative is to ream out the RAM's 5-speed clutch button to accommodate the 6-speed rod. If a machinist has both parts in-hand, they will know what to do. Yet another alternative is to somehow get hold of a RAM 6-speed push button and replace the 5-speed. I think these are pressed into the RAM clutches. #1: Enlarging any "push button" would best be done with an end mill, not a drill bit. My thinking: best left alone. #2: One of the greatest things about the RAM unit is it comes complete, assembled, and balanced. Taking it apart (to change the push button) defeats those advantages. After sorting through all the efforts, it seems time to derive a specification to modify the 6speed (hydraulic actuation) push rod -> 5speed clutch push button. (craigsinclair got it really close:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=215047 "It is already machined down at the actuator end, and unmachined at the clutch end. The OD is 8.0mm except at the end where it's been machined down to 6.0mm. Placing the 8.0mm end into the original clutch and the 6.0mm end into the new clutch I get what feels like the same amount of play, but my calipers don't reach far enough down into the new clutch to actually measure the opening. The machined length of the actuator end is maybe 0.5mm longer than the depth of the hole on the new RAM clutch. I suspect that if I get it machined so that it's symmetrical it will fit in nicely." Chiming in a bit late here, but, yes. I took the original push rod into a machine shop and asked them to "make it symmetrical." I haven't put a lot of miles on the reassembled clutch, but 700kms or so in and it works flawlessly (late start to the season, been riding my other motorcycle more) All the shifting problems I was having are gone. It shifts better than it ever has in my experience with it. I'd suggest machining the push rod is easier than the receiver in the clutch. Plus, easier/cheaper to replace if it gets screwed up during the process.
docc Posted September 15, 2017 Author Posted September 15, 2017 About 1400 miles on from going back together (including almost 600 miles of South'n Spine Raid) and the Sport is fabulous. Just another shout-out to everyone who helped me on so many levels! V11Lemans.com members are the best! Here's a little surreal image I found of the clutch gear installation that looks like something out of The Matrix . . .
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