How free should the front wheel spin when lifted?

[mznyc]

With the front end lifted while doing a tire change,I noticed the wheel didn't spin with what I would call super ease after reassembling everything.Gets about a revolution or so and comes to a halt.Standard Brembos and cleaned calipers,not a full tear down,but blasted brake cleaner and wiped everything down.Should it spin multiple revolutions?

[gstallons]

Well.......Remove the calipers and see how much difference it makes . Let us know

[docc]

Best to push the pistons out - > spray clean, press back in, block piston travel - > clean one piston/ retract - > repeat for all eight front pistons.

 

Quite fiddly, but worth the effort! 

[Cabernet]

Best to push the pistons out - > spray clean, press back in, block piston travel - > clean one piston/ retract - > repeat for all eight front pistons.

 

Quite fiddly, but worth the effort!

If you remove the pads. Then in the OE tool bag there is a large allen key that just slides into the pad crevis along the disc path. You can then pump the pistons out and know they won't pop out. You can then get at al the exposed circumference for cleaning. Becareful compressing each piston back in that you don't pop another out.

If you need new pads, I am pleased with Renthal BP-507 and BP-511 on the back. The ceramic backing inhibits heat transfer from pads to fluid. Prior, I used to suffer rear brake failure from over heated fluid quite regular on track and occasionally on spirited road riding.

 

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

[luhbo]

You should hear and see even if the pads were grinding, so that should be out of question.

Then only the bearings can have an influence. As long as they turn smoothly, no grindy, snappy or loose feeling when you turn them things should be ok. Bearings need a good amount of pre-tension to work properly and they're greased and have two sealing lips each. So the wheel definitely should not spin freely like a bicycle wheel when you take all this into account.

[luhbo]

... unless you haven't overtorqued the axel. What is when you loosen it a bit?

[mznyc]

\. Bearings need a good amount of pre-tension to work properly and they're greased and have two sealing lips each. So the wheel definitely should not spin freely like a bicycle wheel when you take all this into account.

 

 

... unless you haven't overtorqued the axel. What is when you loosen it a bit?

No grinding noise, bearings greased and axle and pinch bolts re-installed correctly and torqued to factory spec...

 

So Hubert has answered the question here. Should the wheel spin freely?(like a bicycle) I've had the front wheel off several times for tire changes and brake caliper cleaning.Just never noticed how much free play the wheel had once spun....Maybe I never checked spin before?....  

So unless you've done this or go out and lift the front end and check it,....Curious now?...

Lotta bikes,lotta maintenance....

[coreytrevor]

Whenever I change pads, I push pistons out 1 or 2 at a time and brush the junk off with a small brass bristle brush. I never had luck with just the spray cleaner, the junk is stuck on pretty well. I like the piston to look nice and shiny. If you just shove the pistons back in for the new pads, all the junk gets forced in past the seals causing the pistons to stop moving freely and the pads to drag. Then you have to pull the calipers apart and clean or rebuild them. 

 

I don't bother with cleaning between pad changes. 

[docc]

 

 

Best to push the pistons out - > spray clean, press back in, block piston travel - > clean one piston/ retract - > repeat for all eight front pistons.

 

Quite fiddly, but worth the effort!

If you remove the pads. Then in the OE tool bag there is a large allen key that just slides into the pad crevis along the disc path. You can then pump the pistons out and know they won't pop out. You can then get at al the exposed circumference for cleaning. Becareful compressing each piston back in that you don't pop another out.

If you need new pads, I am pleased with Renthal BP-507 and BP-511 on the back. The ceramic backing inhibits heat transfer from pads to fluid. Prior, I used to suffer rear brake failure from over heated fluid quite regular on track and occasionally on spirited road riding.

 

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

 

I only use wood blocks for that purpose Cab,but I will revisit cleaning them,I did a full cleaning 6k miles ago so probably due....Thanks

 

[mznyc]

OK maybe part of the slow spinning wheel.Found this sitting in the tire changer..I've only had the front wheel off a half-dozen times so you would think I would remember...Assuming this is the correct position...Shop manual and parts list aren't clear....Too many bikes!

[Scud]

You had it assembled without the spacer?  Your photo has it in the correct spot.  Without the spacer, the wheel would be held in place laterally by the brake pads. Side-to-side movement of the whole wheel could explain the dragging.

[mznyc]

You had it assembled without the spacer?  Your photo has it in the correct spot.  Without the spacer, the wheel would be held in place laterally by the brake pads. Side-to-side movement of the whole wheel could explain the dragging.

Well,I think the axle helped a wee bit!... Thanks for the confirmation...

[Scud]

You're welcome. I'm about to go solve a brake-drag problem on my LeMans now... your thread and another recent one has me well-equipped to figure out what's gone wrong.

[mznyc]

You're welcome. I'm about to go solve a brake-drag problem on my LeMans now... your thread and another recent one has me well-equipped to figure out what's gone wrong.

I've been working on this bike for 10 years and always learning....Better to be lucky than good....