thelonewonderer Posted August 31, 2017 Author Posted August 31, 2017 See Czaccy's similar experience here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19801 You may have a different problem, but there was some clever suggestions on that topic. Also, do you have cables and GuzziDiag? It will tell you if the ECU has detected a bad sensor. Thanks. I'll check that out now. I don't have cables and Guzzidiag, but I'll definitely get them. The bike might not be running, but you guys sure are helping me learn more about Guzzi's and everything I need to work on them. Thanks guys! 1
thelonewonderer Posted August 31, 2017 Author Posted August 31, 2017 See Czakky's similar experience here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19801 You may have a different problem, but there was some clever suggestions on that topic. Also, do you have cables and GuzziDiag? It will tell you if the ECU has detected a bad sensor. Read all of Czakky's thread. Some good stuff for me to look into. Can anyone tell me what the "go winky" light is and where to get one?
MartyNZ Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Can anyone tell me what the "go winky" light is and where to get one? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19241 1
LowRyter Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 If you have spark, fuel, and compression, I would guess ignition timing. I would make sure I had spark and fuel. Just pull a lead, get a spare plug and watch it spark on the fins (if you hadn't done so). I had a similar problem on my EV. The fuel pump wasn't working because the fuse wasn't making good contact in the fuse block. It was intermittent and drove me nuts; I only figured it out by accident. Sorry, I am not much help.
thelonewonderer Posted August 31, 2017 Author Posted August 31, 2017 If you have spark, fuel, and compression, I would guess ignition timing. I would make sure I had spark and fuel. Just pull a plug and watch it spark (if you hadn't done so). I had a similar problem on my EV. The fuel pump wasn't working because the fuse wasn't making good contact in fuse block. It was intermittent and drove me nuts; I only figured it out by accident. Sorry, I am not much help. I appreciate all the help I can get. I'm starting to think it's the timing. Both plugs are sparking. Used a little starting fluid and nothing happened.
Craig Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 First rule of internal combustion engines: If it has fuel, spark, and compression it will run, maybe poorly, but it will run. Sounds to me like you identified spark as a problem. Clean all the grounds and inspect the coils. Make certain that the case is well grounded to the frame. You must have metal to metal all the way. If you have any paint under a ground strap it is no longer a ground strap. See if you can find an inductive timing light and put it on each plug wire to see if it actually sparking. Next check compression. If you don't have much compression you could be off by a tooth or two on the timing chain. When the Guzzi specialist looked at it did he pull the timing cover off and look? When I timed my engine recently it was pretty simple but I did actually put a dial indicator on a cam lobe to verify it. Easy to be off by a tooth. Good luck. When it finally fires up you'll feel great! Edit: I didn't read the last two pages. this is mostly redundant, but make sure you check the grounds between the engine and the case.
Lucky Phil Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Is the reluctor wheel indexed corectly? I think its possible for the drive pin to be 180 deg out on the camshaft. Although I might be dreaming. Ciao
gstallons Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Do you have a timing light ? To check for spark w/o removing anything . Do you have a Bosch type noid light ? To check for fuel injector pulse . Do you have a fuel pressure gauge ? To check for fuel flow & pressure . First , make sure you have EVERY connection plugged in correctly and connected well . I don't have any of that, but I'll happily purchase all of them. I understand how to use the noid light, but I've never had to use timing light or a fuel pressure gauge, so I don't really know how to use these. The timing light's sole purpose is to verify spark . The fuel pressure gauge ( when plumbed correctly ) will indicate proper fuel pressure . The noid light will indicate injector pulse . Are all the grounds properly connected ? If you do not test for these , I can only wish you luck .
gelos Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Is the reluctor wheel indexed corectly? I think its possible for the drive pin to be 180 deg out on the camshaft. Although I might be dreaming. Ciao Of course, that can be the source of issue. On phonic wheel are really two holes at 180 deg interval, I don't know why. Right possition is with missing tooth visible in rpm sensor bore when LH cylinder TDC at valve overlap. The check is relatively simply, to remove rpm sensor and rotate the crankshaft.
pasotibbs Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Even though plugs seemed wet I'd check injectors aren't sticking or partially blocked. I had the same issues with mine when I removed the tank to let it dry out and hopefully shrink back to normal size. I made a temp tank from an old plastic fuel can using the tap and regulator and discovered that the fuel pump had stuck and when I sorted that the bike would not start which eventually I diagnosed stuck injectors as well. If you can get the connector off the injector you can get small crocodile clip test cables on to the terminals and test the injector with a battery, I can't remember what I used but think a 1.5v or 2x 1.5v taped together to make 3v was enough. 1
gstallons Posted September 2, 2017 Posted September 2, 2017 You haven't posted in some time . What have you found ?
thelonewonderer Posted September 2, 2017 Author Posted September 2, 2017 You haven't posted in some time . What have you found ?I've been out of town, but when I get back I plan of checking the injectors before I move on to checking the timing. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
MartyNZ Posted September 2, 2017 Posted September 2, 2017 ...but when I get back I plan of checking the injectors before I move on to checking the timing.If you want to remove and clean the injectors, here are a couple of references. Those injector retaining screws can be very tight though.http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19795 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18805&page=17&do=findComment&comment=215317 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19766 1
thelonewonderer Posted September 2, 2017 Author Posted September 2, 2017 ...but when I get back I plan of checking the injectors before I move on to checking the timing.If you want to remove and clean the injectors, here are a couple of references. Those injector retaining screws can be very tight though.http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19795 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18805&page=17&do=findComment&comment=215317 Thanks. Yeah, they are tight; I stripped two before I left. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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