Lucky Phil Posted September 3, 2017 Posted September 3, 2017 Personally I'd be checking the timing first. Should take about 5 minutes. Ciao 1
thelonewonderer Posted September 4, 2017 Author Posted September 4, 2017 You stripped what ?The injector retaining screws. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
gstallons Posted September 4, 2017 Posted September 4, 2017 Hmmm . Have you repaired this ? Just for arguement's sake , can you inspect / check camshaft timing & to see if the ignition timing is in synch ?
thelonewonderer Posted September 4, 2017 Author Posted September 4, 2017 Hmmm . Have you repaired this ? Just for arguement's sake , can you inspect / check camshaft timing & to see if the ignition timing is in synch ? I'll be repairing the stripped screws as soon as I can, and checking the timing. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Tinus89 Posted September 6, 2017 Posted September 6, 2017 Is the reluctor wheel indexed corectly? I think its possible for the drive pin to be 180 deg out on the camshaft. Although I might be dreaming. Ciao You are not dreaming, one can indeed place the timing wheel 180 degrees the other way. I can't figure why Guzzi made that possible, but you can.
Kiwi_Roy Posted September 7, 2017 Posted September 7, 2017 How do you check for that? Obviously can only happen if you've had the cogs out Sent from my shoe phone!
thelonewonderer Posted September 7, 2017 Author Posted September 7, 2017 Is the reluctor wheel indexed corectly? I think its possible for the drive pin to be 180 deg out on the camshaft. Although I might be dreaming. Ciao You are not dreaming, one can indeed place the timing wheel 180 degrees the other way. I can't figure why Guzzi made that possible, but you can. I acquired a new timing wheel when I was rebuilding the engine, but opted to use the original again because it only had one hole for the pin into the cam, whereas the new wheel had two. I wanted to be certain that it was in the right position. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Kiwi_Roy Posted September 7, 2017 Posted September 7, 2017 See previous post That seems to rule out that possibility then.
Paul Minnaert Posted September 7, 2017 Posted September 7, 2017 did you use the workshop manual with putting timing on it?
Kiwi_Roy Posted September 8, 2017 Posted September 8, 2017 So stepping back a bit, Is the fuel pump re-starting when the bike cranks over? Do you have the correct plug lead on each cylinder? Have you confirmed you have about 45 psi on the injectors while cranking? With a timing light I think you should see a timing mark on the flywheel under the rubber plug. 1
thelonewonderer Posted October 11, 2017 Author Posted October 11, 2017 Well guys, it's been a while, but I got it to start. I ended up taking the engine out and redid the timing. The bad news is that it sounds like the valves are hitting this pistons. The engine turned freely when it was on my workbench and it didn't seem like there were any problems, but when it's running (which was only for a few seconds) it's bad news.
thelonewonderer Posted October 11, 2017 Author Posted October 11, 2017 Has anyone had issues with the valves hitting the pistons? The timing marks checked out. The only thing different with the timing is the tensioner. I replaced the stock one with a heavy duty tensioner after reading that the original one has a history of failing. I've never experienced this before, so I'm not positive that the valves are hitting, but I'm fairly sure that's what it is. Here is a link to the sound:
LowRyter Posted October 11, 2017 Posted October 11, 2017 sounds awful. if the cam was 360 out, would that do it?
docc Posted October 11, 2017 Posted October 11, 2017 Does it still have compression in both cylinders? I don't the piston can hit a valve without bending it and losing compression. Something is totally not right, though . . .
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