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Posted

There are so many things it could be. These are not the points and carb kinda bikes. How confident are you that all the wiring and electronics are back exactly where they should be?

Posted

It sounds like more than one problem. With spark on one cylinder it should still try to run on that cylinder, if the plugs are wet. How old is the fuel? It doesn't take too many months for ethanol fuel to go bad.

Posted

How is your voltage?

Voltage is good--over 13. The first fuse gave me a reading for voltage, but the rest did not, but all electronics seem to be working as they were on, then off when I removed the fuses, then back on again with them reinstalled.

 

It sounds like more than one problem. With spark on one cylinder it should still try to run on that cylinder, if the plugs are wet. How old is the fuel? It doesn't take too many months for ethanol fuel to go bad.

 

I unplugged the cable from the coil and plugged it back in and I now have spark for both cylinders. The fuel is fresh; I drained the tank during the rebuild and put new fuel in after I reinstalled the engine. 

Posted

There are so many things it could be. These are not the points and carb kinda bikes. How confident are you that all the wiring and electronics are back exactly where they should be?

I only disconnected the wiring that was attached to the engine when removing it and didn't touch any other part of the wiring harness during the removal or reinstallation. 

 

I've rebuilt a few bikes in my time, but they were all older Japanese bikes which are much easier to figure out. This is the first bike I've worked on that has injectors, an ECU, fuel pump, etc. Basically, I'm used to carbs and few electronics. 

Posted

You might want to do a quick compression test if you have a gauge, since it looks like you have fuel and spark.

Posted

You might want to do a quick compression test if you have a gauge, since it looks like you have fuel and spark.

I'll check it out. I have a gauge, I just need to make sure I have the right plug adapter. 

Posted

Do you have a timing light ? To check for spark w/o removing anything . Do you have a Bosch type noid light ? To check for fuel injector pulse . Do you have a fuel pressure gauge ? To check for fuel flow & pressure .  

 First , make sure you have EVERY connection plugged in correctly and connected well .

Posted

You might want to do a quick compression test if you have a gauge, since it looks like you have fuel and spark.

 

Solid compression. 150+ for both cylinders.

Posted

When I put my Sport back together recently, getting all the connectors re-seated well and restoring full electrical conductivity to the entire harness took some re-doing.

 

Look at all of the lights, instrument illumination, dash*warning* lights*.   Absolutely all of this works?

Posted

Do you have a timing light ? To check for spark w/o removing anything . Do you have a Bosch type noid light ? To check for fuel injector pulse . Do you have a fuel pressure gauge ? To check for fuel flow & pressure .  

 First , make sure you have EVERY connection plugged in correctly and connected well .

I don't have any of that, but I'll happily purchase all of them. I understand how to use the noid light, but I've never had to use timing light or a fuel pressure gauge, so I don't really know how to use these.

Posted

When I put my Sport back together recently, getting all the connectors re-seated well and restoring full electrical conductivity to the entire harness took some re-doing.

 

Look at all of the lights, instrument illumination, dash*warning* lights*.   Absolutely all of this works?

 

Everything is working (dash lights, turn signals, head and tail lights, break light) except for the horn. I only get a clicking should when pushing the button. 

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