swooshdave Posted August 30, 2017 Posted August 30, 2017 There are so many things it could be. These are not the points and carb kinda bikes. How confident are you that all the wiring and electronics are back exactly where they should be?
coreytrevor Posted August 30, 2017 Posted August 30, 2017 It sounds like more than one problem. With spark on one cylinder it should still try to run on that cylinder, if the plugs are wet. How old is the fuel? It doesn't take too many months for ethanol fuel to go bad.
thelonewonderer Posted August 30, 2017 Author Posted August 30, 2017 How is your voltage? Voltage is good--over 13. The first fuse gave me a reading for voltage, but the rest did not, but all electronics seem to be working as they were on, then off when I removed the fuses, then back on again with them reinstalled. It sounds like more than one problem. With spark on one cylinder it should still try to run on that cylinder, if the plugs are wet. How old is the fuel? It doesn't take too many months for ethanol fuel to go bad. I unplugged the cable from the coil and plugged it back in and I now have spark for both cylinders. The fuel is fresh; I drained the tank during the rebuild and put new fuel in after I reinstalled the engine.
thelonewonderer Posted August 30, 2017 Author Posted August 30, 2017 There are so many things it could be. These are not the points and carb kinda bikes. How confident are you that all the wiring and electronics are back exactly where they should be? I only disconnected the wiring that was attached to the engine when removing it and didn't touch any other part of the wiring harness during the removal or reinstallation. I've rebuilt a few bikes in my time, but they were all older Japanese bikes which are much easier to figure out. This is the first bike I've worked on that has injectors, an ECU, fuel pump, etc. Basically, I'm used to carbs and few electronics.
coreytrevor Posted August 30, 2017 Posted August 30, 2017 You might want to do a quick compression test if you have a gauge, since it looks like you have fuel and spark.
thelonewonderer Posted August 30, 2017 Author Posted August 30, 2017 You might want to do a quick compression test if you have a gauge, since it looks like you have fuel and spark. I'll check it out. I have a gauge, I just need to make sure I have the right plug adapter.
coreytrevor Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Don't forget to ground the plugs or unplug the coils.
gstallons Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Do you have a timing light ? To check for spark w/o removing anything . Do you have a Bosch type noid light ? To check for fuel injector pulse . Do you have a fuel pressure gauge ? To check for fuel flow & pressure . First , make sure you have EVERY connection plugged in correctly and connected well .
thelonewonderer Posted August 31, 2017 Author Posted August 31, 2017 You might want to do a quick compression test if you have a gauge, since it looks like you have fuel and spark. Solid compression. 150+ for both cylinders.
docc Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 When I put my Sport back together recently, getting all the connectors re-seated well and restoring full electrical conductivity to the entire harness took some re-doing. Look at all of the lights, instrument illumination, dash*warning* lights*. Absolutely all of this works?
thelonewonderer Posted August 31, 2017 Author Posted August 31, 2017 Do you have a timing light ? To check for spark w/o removing anything . Do you have a Bosch type noid light ? To check for fuel injector pulse . Do you have a fuel pressure gauge ? To check for fuel flow & pressure . First , make sure you have EVERY connection plugged in correctly and connected well . I don't have any of that, but I'll happily purchase all of them. I understand how to use the noid light, but I've never had to use timing light or a fuel pressure gauge, so I don't really know how to use these.
MartyNZ Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 See Czakky's similar experience here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19801 You may have a different problem, but there was some clever suggestions on that topic. Also, do you have cables and GuzziDiag? It will tell you if the ECU has detected a bad sensor.
thelonewonderer Posted August 31, 2017 Author Posted August 31, 2017 When I put my Sport back together recently, getting all the connectors re-seated well and restoring full electrical conductivity to the entire harness took some re-doing. Look at all of the lights, instrument illumination, dash*warning* lights*. Absolutely all of this works? Everything is working (dash lights, turn signals, head and tail lights, break light) except for the horn. I only get a clicking should when pushing the button.
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