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Posted

sounds awful.

 

if the cam was 360 out, would that do it?

It's possible. I'm just having a hard time figuring out where I went wrong. The timing marks lined up as they should, and due to this positioning, the cam has to line up with the timing gear that attaches to it via the holes that line up for the pin on the gear, the timing wheel, and the cam itself. So, by lining that up correctly, and making sure that the gears on the cam and the crank line up so that the timing marks are in the correct location, I don't know how the cam would be off. 

 

While adjusting the valve clearance on my workbench, the left cylinder was easy to do. The right was a different story. The adjustment screws had to be almost completely backed out to get the proper clearance, and only then did the push-rods spin freely. I had to keep readjusting the clearance on the right cylinder after turning the engine over by hand. 

 

It was also interesting to look at the timing marks on the flywheel. I got the "S" exactly where it would be viewed from the hole when the engine is in the frame. However, when getting the "D" in the same place, the piston was at TDC, but there was little to no play with the rocker arms, hence the adjustment screws having to be backed all the way out. 

 

I'm having a hard time figuring it out...14 hours straight of wrenching yesterday, followed by less than two hours of sleep last night (too much caffeine during the work  :P: )

Posted

Does it still have compression in both cylinders? I don't the piston can hit a valve without bending it and losing compression.

 

Something is totally not right, though . . . :huh:

 

Checking that now...

Posted

 

Does it still have compression in both cylinders? I don't the piston can hit a valve without bending it and losing compression.

 

Something is totally not right, though . . . :huh:

 

Checking that now...

 

 

Compression is around 120 on the left, 150 on the right. 

 

I could hear the valve hitting during the test. It appears to only be one valve, but I can't tell if it's intake or exhaust. 

Posted

I'll bet its 180 degrees out. The damage may have already been done, but bring th left cylinder to TDC on the firing stroke.To do this, turn the engine clockwise looking from the front, and watch the intake valve. When it opens, then closes, the engine is on the firing stroke.Adjust that set of valves at TDC. You will see the S in the inspection hole at TDC.

Got that?

Ok.Rotate clockwise 270 degrees. You should see the D in the inspection hole. Yes?

Adjust that set of valves and report back.

  • Like 2
Posted

I'll bet its 180 degrees out. The damage may have already been done, but bring th left cylinder to TDC on the firing stroke.To do this, turn the engine clockwise looking from the front, and watch the intake valve. When it opens, then closes, the engine is on the firing stroke.Adjust that set of valves at TDC. You will see the S in the inspection hole at TDC.

Got that?

Ok.Rotate clockwise 270 degrees. You should see the D in the inspection hole. Yes?

Adjust that set of valves and report back.

Will do. I have all day tomorrow to work on it, so I'm hoping I can figure it out, then.

 

If the valve ends up being bent, there is a machine shop a stone's throw away from where I live, so I'll see if they can straighten it out. Fingers crossed that there is no damage.

 

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Posted

Straighten out the problem or the valve? Hopefully not the valve. :rolleyes:

 

If bent, check the guide for cracks too.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah, man, bent valves will have to be a replaced.

  • Like 1
Posted

I can type as fast as I talk, but I'm pecking on a tablet with one finger. To be absolutely clear, the left cylinder is assuming that you are sitting on the bike. .facing forward. :)

  • Like 1
Posted

I can type as fast as I talk, but I'm pecking on a tablet with one finger. To be absolutely clear, the left cylinder is assuming that you are sitting on the bike. .facing forward. :)

Haha, I understood. I usually refer to it as cylinder #1, and #2 for the right.

 

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Posted

It's Italian. When looking in the inspection hole, D is Dis side.S is Snot dis side.

I'll get me hat..

  • Like 2
Posted

This isn't ideal, but I'm getting pretty darn good at removing the engine.

 

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Posted

I'm going to walk through how I assembled the timing so one of you guys that know more than me can tell me what I'm doing wrong, if you'll be so kind.

 

First, I pin the timing wheel to the cam, and make sure that the area with the missing tooth is opposite the timing sensor (the pin hole is at the bottom of the cam, if I remember correctly, and also where my sleep deprived brain thinks I made the mistake )

 

I then line up the gears and chain on my bench so that the timing marks from the cam gear and crank gear line up.

 

From here, I move the gears to the engine and position them on the cam, crank, and oil pump, and make sure that the pin hole on the cam gear lines up. Then I check that the timing marks are still aligned. If everything look good, it's safe to bolt everything into place, and torque it down.

 

Seems simple, but I screwed it up, somewhere .

 

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Posted

Uhh,why are you doing that?

If the timing is off, I'll have to remove it in order to correct this, and I think it would be wise to check the valves.

 

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Posted

The valves should rock at TDC as in both open when the piston is all the way up

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

  • Like 1

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