thelonewonderer Posted November 16, 2017 Author Posted November 16, 2017 Well fellas, it's been a while, but I finally have a day to work on the engine. I got the heads off and took the valves out. None of them are bent. There are also no marks on the pistons from the valves. I'm wondering if it was something else making that awful sound. I'm going to remove the flywheel and the timing and rebuild everything again to see if I can do it proper this time. I did have a thought, though: anyone ever heard of someone using a different cam shaft? I know, it's out there, but all of the timing marks looked good, so I'm just sitting here, scratching my head. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
docc Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 We had a pretty thorough camshaft thread not long ago. I'll try and retrieve it, if you're interested. The V11 cam is really well developed. I can't imagine introducing another variable at this point, though . . . [edit: here's the thread on the Norris SS cam and others: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19653&p=213946] 1
thelonewonderer Posted November 17, 2017 Author Posted November 17, 2017 We had a pretty thorough camshaft thread not long ago. I'll try and retrieve it, if you're interested. The V11 cam is really well developed. i can't imagine introducing another variable at this point, though . . . I'm definitely interested. Thank you. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
motoguzznix Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 While adjusting the valve clearance on my workbench, the left cylinder was easy to do. The right was a different story. The adjustment screws had to be almost completely backed out to get the proper clearance, and only then did the push-rods spin freely. I had to keep readjusting the clearance on the right cylinder after turning the engine over by hand. Wanderer Maybe the valves got stuck in the guides. You have to pull the heads to check... 1
thelonewonderer Posted November 17, 2017 Author Posted November 17, 2017 While adjusting the valve clearance on my workbench, the left cylinder was easy to do. The right was a different story. The adjustment screws had to be almost completely backed out to get the proper clearance, and only then did the push-rods spin freely. I had to keep readjusting the clearance on the right cylinder after turning the engine over by hand. Wanderer Maybe the valves got stuck in the guides. You have to pull the heads to check... I pulled the heads today and removed the valves. They moved freely in the guides. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Chuck Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 While adjusting the valve clearance on my workbench, the left cylinder was easy to do. The right was a different story. The adjustment screws had to be almost completely backed out to get the proper clearance, and only then did the push-rods spin freely. I had to keep readjusting the clearance on the right cylinder after turning the engine over by hand. Wanderer Maybe the valves got stuck in the guides. You have to pull the heads to check... Uhh, it's a little late, but no you don't.
thelonewonderer Posted January 23, 2018 Author Posted January 23, 2018 Well, gents, it's been awhile, but I have news! I got her to fire right up, this time with no horrendous sounds! I'm going to take her for a ride around the neighborhood tomorrow to make sure everything is good. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk 1
Kiwi_Roy Posted January 23, 2018 Posted January 23, 2018 Yes we are all waiting I was reading back through the thread, I cannot believe it took so long. Question If the engine has been apart how do we know the flywheel timing marks are in the right place? Why don't people just watch for valves rocking at TDC, thats a foolproof way of checking the valve timing? Did anyone ever tell him what the "Go Winkie light is? A light on the fuel pump would tell us that the timing sensor is working.
thelonewonderer Posted January 23, 2018 Author Posted January 23, 2018 So, what was it?To be honest, I don't have a proper answer. After I heard that awful sound, I removed the engine, then the heads, then the valves to make sure they weren't bent. All was good. I removed the timing and reinstalled it (anyone using the huge aftermarket timing chain tensioner? That thing makes it difficult!). Then, before I could do anything else, I get a call from my landlord that the apartment above my garage has a plumbing issue and they have to remove and replace all of the pipes in my ceiling. My lease states that there can be no work done on vehicles on the property, so I had to tarp everything and let it sit while the work was done, so I didn't end up with a nasty eviction notice (I have moto parts all over my garage. I specifically rented this apartment for the private garage; hard to find in Los Angeles). In the time that I couldn't work on the bike, I wondered what I could do to make sure everything was right and proper, without putting the engine back in the frame. I could turn the engine over by hand, but I did that before and I didn't think anything was wrong. It hit me that I needed to make the engine turn faster to see of anything was out of the ordinary. So, I decided to turn the engine over with a battery powered drill. It could turn it way faster than I could by hand, yet not too much as to cause damage to an engine with no oil in it. After I did that and the engine sounded fine, I was confident that I could put it back in the bike. I wish I could pinpoint exactly what was wrong with the engine to get those awful ticks. All that I can say is when doing your timing, be careful and meticulous! I may have just been off by a tooth, I don't know, but even a professional Guzzi mechanic told me my timing looked good to go. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
thelonewonderer Posted January 23, 2018 Author Posted January 23, 2018 Yes we are all waiting I was reading back through the thread, I cannot believe it took so long. Question If the engine has been apart how do we know the flywheel timing marks are in the right place? Why don't people just watch for valves rocking at TDC, thats a foolproof way of checking the valve timing? Did anyone ever tell him what the "Go Winkie light is? A light on the fuel pump would tell us that the timing sensor is working. For the flywheel marks, all you have to do is make sure the timing marks are in lined up before installing the flywheel. I don't rely on the marks on the flywheel anymore for piston position. Just the valve positions, as you mentioned. There is a place in the thread where I learned what the "go winkie" is. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Kiwi_Roy Posted January 23, 2018 Posted January 23, 2018 Thanks for the response, glad you got the old girl running. It would be easy to install the flywheel in the wrong spot (6 choices), hell I was putting my Ambo back together in my tiny locker space, stood back to admire my work and burst out laughing, I put the heads on backwards. 2
swooshdave Posted January 24, 2018 Posted January 24, 2018 Thanks for the response, glad you got the old girl running. It would be easy to install the flywheel in the wrong spot (6 choices), hell I was putting my Ambo back together in my tiny locker space, stood back to admire my work and burst out laughing, I put the heads on backwards. Some people do that on purpose!
Tinus89 Posted January 24, 2018 Posted January 24, 2018 Just shooting from the hip here: could it be cause by a leaking exhaust gasket at the head? I know that makes a very sharp, metallic sound. You may have tightened them more on the re-installation of the heads?
thelonewonderer Posted January 30, 2018 Author Posted January 30, 2018 Just shooting from the hip here: could it be cause by a leaking exhaust gasket at the head? I know that makes a very sharp, metallic sound. You may have tightened them more on the re-installation of the heads? Could be! I'm just happy that whatever gremlin was there has left!
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