Battery light flicker

[Chuck]

FWIW.. back in another lifetime, when I was an engineering modelmaker.. I used to make test fixtures for the "salt water spray test." 40 hours of high pressure salt water blown from various directions. I've not seen a Guzzi harness that would pass that one. Certainly not a wrapped in electrical tape one, much less a Molex connector.

[docc]

"Molex" connectors remind me very much of the most sketchy connectors in the V11 harness. The "Bullet" connectors for the Clutch Lever Start Lock-out on the left side of the frame by the headstock and the two Yellow-Wire bullet connectors from the stator that are un-sealed, and down there in the spray. Yet, I am not convinced that an un-sealed SAE flat connector has *much* better weather protection than these others.

[Chuck]

^^^^ Agreed.

[docc]

On 3/2/2018 at 6:20 PM, docc said:

Yet, Guzzi2Go, the "special" regulator failure case: can that be tested?

Of course, @Guzzi2Go and @luhbo were entirely correct that in spite of all the little things I tried, the battery light flicker at idle after riding remained. Until I finally changed the regulator.

Although the charging remained 14.2V or above, it appears the old regulator had "failed in a special way" and was "on its way out" with continuity developing between the red charging wire and the case. I never thought of monitoring for continuity there, but it makes sense.

New regulator: no more flicker.

[gstallons]

On 8/21/2018 at 7:00 PM, docc said:

"Molex" connectors remind me very much of the most sketchy connectors in the V11 harness. The "Bullet" connectors for the Clutch Lever Start Lock-out on the left side of the frame by the headstock and the two Yellow-Wire bullet connectors from the stator that are un-sealed, and down there in the spray. Yet, I am not convinced that an un-sealed SAE flat connector has *much* better weather protection than these others.

I would put an amount of electrical grease in the cavities before plugging it up for a perfect connection .

[docc]

2 hours ago, gstallons said:

I would put an amount of electrical grease in the cavities before plugging it up for a perfect connection .

Good plan! That, Caig Deoxit®, and heat shrink on all the regulator connectors.

The new stator has spade connectors to the regulator which feel quite a bit more positive in their connection than the "bullet" connectors that never felt tight.

Having groomed all the connectors behind the front subframe together made the stator/regulator swap very approachable without having to pull the tank.