Electrical Problem

[emry]

If i read the original post out loud it is all about the horn to me.   Cause, effect, where to start looking for a problem. 

[docc]

If i read the original post out loud it is all about the horn to me.   Cause, effect, where to start looking for a problem. 

 

 

Certainly, simple enough to disconnect the horns and observe any change.  The horns, and horn connections are *out front* in the "spray and weather."

[Kiwi_Roy]

Emry, I think we are saying much the same thing,

You are saying the horn is pulling so much current its pulling the Voltage down

I'm saying there's so much resistance it cannot support the horn current.

Either way the horn is a problem the owner must fix

 

Yes, have a good New Year

Cheers

[docc]

Maybe cash1000 could clarify things in the original post that look, to me, like rev counter/running issues that are independent of the horn:
 

"Sometimes the rev counter may not go at all."

 

"When the rev counter doesn't go the motor will occasionally briefly cut out."

 

"When the motor is idling the rev counter may indicate zero revs but if you apply some revs the rev counter will go."

[cash1000]

Happy New Year

Many thanks for the suggestions.

I've been chasing my brother on his Yamaha MT09 around the Canterbury roads here in NZ for the last few days so not had much time to respond.

There are 2 problems that I think are linked and are intermittent.

1. Horn won't go sometimes. It sometimes works with only key on; others with motor going at 1,000 rpm; Other times with motor going at 3,000 rpm; most of time not at all. Guy who puts bike through for warrant of fitness each year has put hard word on me to fix it.

2. Rev counter won't go at idle, with revs it will go. But occasionally won't go at all. Last time ,3 months ago, I cleaned contacts on battery, relays & fuses and got it going again.

3. When horn doesn't go it affects rev counter. Press horn button and rev counter with drop about 2,000 revs. If you hold button down for a few seconds revs will drop to zero.

 

Battery - With ignition off 12.7; With motor idling 12.7; With motor at 3,000 rpm 13.9.

Rectifyier  - Bike has non standard one. No identifying writing on it.

I'm not that electrically competent so please keep suggestions simple.

I replaced horns a few years ago with ones very similar to originals. Thought I had solved  problem for a few days but no.

I've just disconnected horns. Firstly disconnected left hand one - no effect. Then disconnected right had one - now bike doesn't go - no lights fuel pump etc nothing. Now waiting for bike to cool down before reconnecting horns. Not wanting to get burnt on exhaust headers!

Relays - I'm using Narava p/no 68062    (not Omron as I thought).

Where to from here?

[docc]

Seriously, buddy: High Current OMRON (get a full set):

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605

 

Certainly critical in positions 1, 2 and 5 in your case.

[Chuck]

And.. some Caig DeOxit in relay bases, connections, etc.

[MartyNZ]

Nigel,

If you can make the trip into town interesting enough that you don't die of boredom on the way, you could visit next weekend and we could try a few things that were suggested. I have meters to measure horn current and earth resistance, enough spare relays to troubleshoot, and enough grease, goo, and goop for a lifetime. KiwiRoy's relay base repair fixed an intermittent snag on my bike, so we can check that. I have beer too.

PM me.

 Marty 

[cash1000]

Mmmm

Blew 15amp ignition fuse (4th from front) when I disconnected right side horn. Replaced fuse. Bike goes now but horn, rev counter & head light don't go.

Thoughts?

[cash1000]

Hi Marty

Many thanks for the offer I will PM you.

Also I know a far winder way into town so won't be asleep when I get to your place

Nigel

[swooshdave]

Nigel,

If you can make the trip into town interesting enough that you don't die of boredom on the way, you could visit next weekend and we could try a few things that were suggested. I have meters to measure horn current and earth resistance, enough spare relays to troubleshoot, and enough grease, goo, and goop for a lifetime. KiwiRoy's relay base repair fixed an intermittent snag on my bike, so we can check that. I have beer too.

PM me.

 Marty 

 

That is an offer no one should refuse.

 

Fuse blows when you remove the horn? Most likely shorted something when you touched the wire to something you shouldn't have.

[Chuck]

That's a really strange one. Even if he did short the positive wire, it should be dead unless the horn relay is stuck or horn button shorted, etc.

Marty has beer. He'll get it sorted.

[swooshdave]

As I always say (or maybe I'm just making this up for the first time) "If a Kiwi can't sort it out it wasn't meant to be sorted out."

[gstallons]

Philosophical

[Kiwi_Roy]

I think your Voltage regulator must be an after market direct connected type otherwise you would be having flat battery problems by now.

You have never said if the headlight is working, does it turn off while cranking?

Over here the headlight is connected to turn off while the starter is engaged and the tach, horns etc are also off the normally closed Start relay contact.

 

I suspect your problem is in one of the first two relays, particularly the Start relay.

If you have all 5 relays the same 5 pin variety take the first two and swap them for the rear two, see if that improves things

See if the bike runs without the middle relay, usually by now the stand switch has been shorted out so that is superfluous.