Neutral light out, deploy side stand, bike stalls

[LowRyter]

It looks like it's the regulator.   I know there are some issues about upgrading the alternator to Ducati type.

 

Hopefully there aren't other issues.  

[Chuck]

The regulator is a common failure, generally caused by lack of a dedicated ground wire from the regulator mount to an engine case bolt. How did you determine it is the regulator?

[LowRyter]

Chuck, I am told it was overcharging and putting out 18v. 

 

All the fuses looked good.

 

BTW-  I thought I had the ground reinforced when the fuel pump burned out.  

[Kiwi_Roy]

LowRyter,

It's hard to determine from the symptoms you describe whether you have an electrical problem or just a flat battery I suggest you give it a charge, scrape the posts and apply some Vaseline.

 

With a meter or test-light look for 12 Volts in the relay sockets pin 30, if you pull the relays out one at the time each 30 terminal should be alive, for relay 3 you will need the key On

 

Relay 3 is the most likely to give you problems, I suggest you short it out by wrapping a strand of fine wire around the 30 & 87 pins

 

Have someone watch the tail-light as you try to start, it should stay On

 

Report Back

[LowRyter]

Roy,  the bike is in the shop.  I gave the mechanic a copy of your schematic.  The battery and charge system was examined and supposed to have been load tested.  The guy works on Ducatis and a dealer for replacement electrics.  I'll get these instructions to him.  thanks

[Kiwi_Roy]

As Chuck mentioned earlier, if there's no power at relay 3/30 with the key turned On suspect the wire may have broken off the ignition switch.

 

The switch is very easy to remove it's held on by 2 Phillips screws up from below, leave the lock in place.

 

The back unclips and the white switch plate tilts out when you release the clip.

 

After a few years the grease dries out and becomes hard holding the tension off the contacts

Wipe out the old grease and replace with fresh Vaseline

 

Fasten the wires to the back cover so they don't flex at the solder joints or they will become brittle and snap.

 

The regulator needs to be well grounded from the case to chassis because all the current passes back that way, When it's new the bracket may be well grounded but it deteriorates with age, I always suggest a 6" wire from the case to a timing cover screw.

[LowRyter]

which wire on the ignition switch?

[docc]

which wire on the ignition switch?

It will be obvious on inspection. All of of us should inspect the Ignition Switch wiring connections periodically. A certain "green wire" can come loose. Others, even?

[LowRyter]

Thanks.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I or J 

To work on the switch safely disconnect the battery negative lead

The switch unplugs just under the tank but I usually work on it in-situ

[LowRyter]

I just got the bike back and it's been a kerfuffle.  A new regulator and the clutch kill switch disconnected. Ran fine, rode it home.

 

But first, I take off and the speedo doesn't work. Go back and they found pinion drive to transmission cable in the back of the gravel parking lot (?) perhaps there for weeks.  Reinstalled it and glued a cover back over it.  Speedo worked for 40 mile ride home and the cover is still glued on.

 

Noticed when I was stopped, the neutral light still flickers.  I am guessing that it's just a poor connection.  Despite the new spring and rebuilt shock, It still weaves behind semis but now the adjuster works so I'll play around with it.

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..............  The the kicker.  >>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Got it home, idling in neutral, kick the side stand and when I put the bike on the side it starts to miss and dies.  Raise it up and it idles fine. But now when I restart it, the fuel pump works and it runs fine when it's upright.  When I drop it to the side it cuts out again. 

 

So I take off my riding gear, go in the house for 5 minutes.  Grabbed an old sparkplug to determine if one or both sides are cutting out but it ran like normal (!).  Upright or over on the stand it idles normally. 

 

Could it be vapor lock?   The bike didn't set for more than five minutes.

[Chuck]

How about the tipover switch? Only guessing. Normally with vapor lock, it won't restart after sitting a few minutes. What's up with unhooking the clutch kill switch?

[Kiwi_Roy]

I don't think that model has a tipover switch but it certainly seems like loss of power.

To confirm that can you wire a small lamp to Fuse 8 and Chassis, install it semi permanent so it's ready if it cuts out again any 12V lamp will do.

 

Fuse 8 is the last point before the power goes into the ECU relay after half the flakey wiring, knowing if that's alive is a great troubleshooting aid.

[LowRyter]

How about the tipover switch? Only guessing. Normally with vapor lock, it won't restart after sitting a few minutes. What's up with unhooking the clutch kill switch?

 

 

The mechanic suspected the clutch switch when the bike hesitated to start when he was working on it previously- something I had never experienced before.mObviously the sitch had nothing to do with the fuel pump not activating which left the bike dead in the first place.

 

So I dunno.  

[LowRyter]

working on the bike this AM.  Going to go over connections and fuses and change out relays.

 

First thing, bike starts and neutral light is bright-no flicker.  

 

Update:  I cleaned and reinstalled the relays and fuses.  It appeared that fuse #6, 5 amp was blown.  Of course it couldn't have been, since everything appeared working.  I am not sure what "Dipped Lights" mean.  Replaced it.